Specialized S-Works Tarmac SL8

[K4m1k4z3]

i know this has been done to death but did anyone manage to find a solution for this gap... I also have a gap on my size 52, doesn't look good at all and there must be a way of reducing it.

I wanted to get a hold of the upper bearing split compression ring (it's literally a $5 part) just to see if there's a way of modifying it or the headset cover, but for some weird reason they're all sold out in EU. I'll inquire on Tuesday.
Alternatively, I was thinking of cutting to shape some sort of thin black protective tape and applying it at the top of the speed sniffer - think a chainstay protective tape or something similar with 1 mm of thickness or less. Just to make the gap less visible from a side view.

[bmrk]

i know this has been done to death but did anyone manage to find a solution for this gap... I also have a gap on my size 52, doesn't look good at all and there must be a way of reducing it.

I wanted to get a hold of the upper bearing split compression ring (it's literally a $5 part) just to see if there's a way of modifying it or the headset cover, but for some weird reason they're all sold out in EU. I'll inquire on Tuesday.
Alternatively, I was thinking of cutting to shape some sort of thin black protective tape and applying it at the top of the speed sniffer - think a chainstay protective tape or something similar with 1 mm of thickness or less. Just to make the gap less visible from a side view.

I could not put up with that gap and sanded the compression ring removing about 3mm of material. Also needed to remove some material of the top cap front location edge so it would sit flush on the compression ring. The gap now is less than 1mm and the top cap does not scratch the paint. Any less the back part of the top cap would touch the frame.

[Charlie69]

i know this has been done to death but did anyone manage to find a solution for this gap... I also have a gap on my size 52, doesn't look good at all and there must be a way of reducing it.

I wanted to get a hold of the upper bearing split compression ring (it's literally a $5 part) just to see if there's a way of modifying it or the headset cover, but for some weird reason they're all sold out in EU. I'll inquire on Tuesday.
Alternatively, I was thinking of cutting to shape some sort of thin black protective tape and applying it at the top of the speed sniffer - think a chainstay protective tape or something similar with 1 mm of thickness or less. Just to make the gap less visible from a side view.

I could not put up with that gap and sanded the compression ring removing about 3mm of material. Also needed to remove some material of the top cap front location edge so it would sit flush on the compression ring. The gap now is less than 1mm and the top cap does not scratch the paint. Any less the back part of the top cap would touch the frame.

IMG_4868.jpeg

Excellent work

[pdlpsher1]

As I currently have a good offer for a frame in size 54, I could use a little input as well: I am 175 cm small, my BB Centre to top of saddle Height is 724mm. Unfortunately, I am not the most flexible person on earth. If I chose a 52, I'm afraid the amount of spacers would be disgusting =D.

Any users with similar sizes who could tell me if it fits or do you think it would be too tall for my size?

I'm 170 and avoided a 49 for the same reason

Then I fitted 160mm cranks, driving up my saddle height 10mm and meaning I still need a lot of spacers

If you went with a 10mm shorter crank, your pelvis will rotate forward which will allow you to keep the same stack. I went with a 15mm shorter crank and didn't raise the front end a bit.

[Jz91]

i know this has been done to death but did anyone manage to find a solution for this gap... I also have a gap on my size 52, doesn't look good at all and there must be a way of reducing it.

I wanted to get a hold of the upper bearing split compression ring (it's literally a $5 part) just to see if there's a way of modifying it or the headset cover, but for some weird reason they're all sold out in EU. I'll inquire on Tuesday.
Alternatively, I was thinking of cutting to shape some sort of thin black protective tape and applying it at the top of the speed sniffer - think a chainstay protective tape or something similar with 1 mm of thickness or less. Just to make the gap less visible from a side view.

I could not put up with that gap and sanded the compression ring removing about 3mm of material. Also needed to remove some material of the top cap front location edge so it would sit flush on the compression ring. The gap now is less than 1mm and the top cap does not scratch the paint. Any less the back part of the top cap would touch the frame.

IMG_4868.jpeg

Hats off, very nicely executed and finally look up to the standards for this type of bike.

You can now send an email to speci with detailed instructions Next in line would be cable management.

Still sounds like a bad joke this type of DIY is necessary to make things look right.

[bmrk]

Hats off, very nicely executed and finally look up to the standards for this type of bike.

You can now send an email to speci with detailed instructions Next in line would be cable management.

Still sounds like a bad joke this type of DIY is necessary to make things look right.

I don’t think this is acceptable in any product, let alone a 5k bicycle frame. But I wanted the bike and was aware of this issue by reading this thread.

When I first assembled the headset I knew I could not move forward with the build.

My process was probably not the best and required some patience because I didn’t had the right tools.

Wrapped sandpaper around a wood block, used the plastic cone from a shimano cassette package which fits nicely on the compression ring to act as a support mechanism and to evenly apply pressure while sanding and a caliper to measure the amount of material being removed and if it was uniform across the compression ring.

I was testing the gap on the frame every 0.3-0.5mm removed.

As mentioned before, the front locating edge of the top cap also needs some material removed to then sit flush on the thinner compression ring.


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[mikehhhhhhh]

As I currently have a good offer for a frame in size 54, I could use a little input as well: I am 175 cm small, my BB Centre to top of saddle Height is 724mm. Unfortunately, I am not the most flexible person on earth. If I chose a 52, I'm afraid the amount of spacers would be disgusting =D.

Any users with similar sizes who could tell me if it fits or do you think it would be too tall for my size?

I'm 170 and avoided a 49 for the same reason

Then I fitted 160mm cranks, driving up my saddle height 10mm and meaning I still need a lot of spacers

If you went with a 10mm shorter crank, your pelvis will rotate forward which will allow you to keep the same stack. I went with a 15mm shorter crank and didn't raise the front end a bit.

I had to go up 5mm to avoid neck and shoulder pain.

Saddle to bar drop has still increased by 5mm.

[Theopiot]

Hello,

After a lot of delays on my canyon aeroad cfr, I have decided to cancel my order and switch for a sworks tarmac sl8.
I am not sure about the size, i am 192cm with an inseam of 97cm. I am currently riding a canyon aeroad size L that fits me perfectly.
Would a size 58 fit me well?
Thanks for your help

[Charlie69]

Deleted....

[saltmann]

After a lot of delays on my canyon aeroad cfr, I have decided to cancel my order and switch for a sworks tarmac sl8.
I am not sure about the size, i am 192cm with an inseam of 97cm. I am currently riding a canyon aeroad size L that fits me perfectly.
Would a size 58 fit me well?

Exactly the same as me then! I am 192cm and also cancelled the Aeroad and went for SW SL8 in size 58. I have built up the bike now, and the size seems to be very much the same as the Ultimate L I was riding before.

[Theopiot]

How does it compare to your old aeroad? Regarding the cockpit, what size did you take?
Thanks

[Jaisen]

Hello,

After a lot of delays on my canyon aeroad cfr, I have decided to cancel my order and switch for a sworks tarmac sl8.
I am not sure about the size, i am 192cm with an inseam of 97cm. I am currently riding a canyon aeroad size L that fits me perfectly.
Would a size 58 fit me well?
Thanks for your help

I'm also 192 cm, but I think my inseam is only 90cm (I might not have measured it exactly right). The 58cm fits good but I run it with a few spacers and a 130cm stem (I have a SL7 but the geometry is the same for the SL8). With a 61cm frame I could slam it and run a shorter stem. It was a toss up as to which one to get for me, both fit very good, I ultimately chose the smaller 58cm frame.

ETA: the stack on the SL8 size 58cm is about 19mm higher than the Canyon aeroad size L, so you should take that in to account.
https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/cany ... 8-2023-58/

[andy2097]

Just built up this 58 frameset using parts from my Soloist. Thought I’d share my first impressions after about 300km.

- Frameset: Satin blue onyx size 58
- Groupset: Ultegra di2 12 speed, dura ace crankset
- Wheels: Farsport 58 ‘gravel wheels’ (wider internal rims they made before the hyperdisc)
- Stem: 120 s-works tarmac stem
- Bars: new EXS R175 in size 40

Weight 7.4kg with pedals. I have ordered a EXS integrated handlebar, lighter wheels and some other bits so expect for this to be around 7kg when finalised.

Build report: the build was fairly straight forward however the saddle clamp design is a nightmare. The front female bolt falls into the seat post if you unscrew it which caused me about a 30min headache of redoing this a few times. The di2 battery holder also sheered a bit from continuously pulling it out so I would advise not undoing the bolt further than you need it (if that makes sense).

Same as everyone else I have the annoying gap between bearing and cover so will be investigating that further.

Ride feel: overall I feel like the SL8 is -10% speed and +20% handling compared to the soloist. The small loss of speed I put down to the flexier rear end on the SL8 I think is noticeable. The biggest improvement is in the handling and cornering. I am able to corner a full bike length later on the sl8 which is a significant difference. This handles like a sports car compared to the truck feeling soloist. Stiffness is about the same and climbing feels similar. I have done some sprints and tempo efforts which felt similar but yet to race it so will report back.

I think in summary it made me appreciate how good the Soloist is for the price. Probably not what you want to hear but I think carbon layup and frame design is quite advanced the difference between mid-high end frames is small.

Cheers








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[Creative79]

Good morning. I'm building a specialized sl8 swork and I was thinking about changing the expander and putting in the smocholke expander, do you recommend it or not? is that there is a lot of difference in both size and weight with the specialized standard. Thank you so much

[Theopiot]

Hello,

After a lot of delays on my canyon aeroad cfr, I have decided to cancel my order and switch for a sworks tarmac sl8.
I am not sure about the size, i am 192cm with an inseam of 97cm. I am currently riding a canyon aeroad size L that fits me perfectly.
Would a size 58 fit me well?
Thanks for your help

I'm also 192 cm, but I think my inseam is only 90cm (I might not have measured it exactly right). The 58cm fits good but I run it with a few spacers and a 130cm stem (I have a SL7 but the geometry is the same for the SL8). With a 61cm frame I could slam it and run a shorter stem. It was a toss up as to which one to get for me, both fit very good, I ultimately chose the smaller 58cm frame.

ETA: the stack on the SL8 size 58cm is about 19mm higher than the Canyon aeroad size L, so you should take that in to account.
https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/cany ... 8-2023-58/

I also prefer smaller frame in order to have a racier position. I am a bit confused with the big difference on the stack, does it mean that I'll be sitting higher? (I guess this difference can be offset by a lower seat post length?)
The top tube length is almost the same between the two frames, so I'm thinking about getting the same size for the cockpit (110x410). Does it make sense?
Thanks for your help