No.
Blowouts are caused by incorrect installation where the tube gets squeezed between the rim & tyre sidewall.
Moderator: robbosmans
No.
It will be nothing when you use them both with same pressure.!
Lighter? If you multiply the size of a hook with the density of carbon you'll get like 5g for two rims, which is less than the mfg variance between two identical rims. And that's if the wall below the hook is unchanged (often not the case).
He is still correct though. Hookless rims are generally pretty light.BigBoyND wrote: ↑Tue May 24, 2022 12:45 pmLighter? If you multiply the size of a hook with the density of carbon you'll get like 5g for two rims, which is less than the mfg variance between two identical rims. And that's if the wall below the hook is unchanged (often not the case).
The hookless weight argument doesn't pass the sniff test at all.
Correct. Latex tubes are very supple and take a little more care and effort to install. That's why I carry a light-ish butyl tube (Specialized Turbo Talc or Continental Race Light - both about 78g) as a spare as if I have a flat and am changing a tube on the side of the road I'm probably not going to be super careful like I would be at home.
I'm not sure anyone's getting pinch flats on road at close to the recommended pressures anyway, I certainly never have. Silca & SRAM calculators only suggest ~2 PSI difference lower for tubeless anyway, probably within the measurement error on most gauges.
Right I was thinking the current generation of Zipp 303/353/404/454 wheels. If we look at Farsports https://www.wheelsfar.com/feder-27mm-28 ... p0119.html example, the 35mm-deep hooked set weighs 1390g, while the hookless set weighs 1330g, which is 60g less.FlatlandClimber wrote: ↑Tue May 24, 2022 1:01 pmHe is still correct though. Hookless rims are generally pretty light.BigBoyND wrote: ↑Tue May 24, 2022 12:45 pmLighter? If you multiply the size of a hook with the density of carbon you'll get like 5g for two rims, which is less than the mfg variance between two identical rims. And that's if the wall below the hook is unchanged (often not the case).
The hookless weight argument doesn't pass the sniff test at all.
I agree that the carbon form the hook can hardly be a relevant influence here. However, SRAM has shed loads of weight on the Hookless rims of the latest gen, while the 858 and 808 have remained heavy.
The Extralite rims are probably the lightest TL disc brake rims there are, and they are hookless. I guess there is more to the construction in hookless, that helps shed weight.
My friend pinch-flatted the front tire when crossing rails at 40 km/h. I don't know if he pumped the latex tubes correctly but given the high leak rate of latex it's a real risk. SRAM calculator (https://axs.sram.com/guides/tire/pressure) suggests hookless tubeless setup at ~5psi lower than tubes setup (25mm rims, 28c tires, 62kg rider). I run 3 psi lower than SRAM's recommendation on my local roads, mesaured by a digital pressure gauge. Enve (https://www.enve.com/learn/tire-pressure/) recommends even lower pressures. Optimal tire pressures depend on wheels and personal preferences. YMMV.
Latex (especially the thin, lightweight ones) is prone to creep at high pressures. They will find and creep into the smallest openings, such as the gap on the edge of cotton rim tapes, and most notably the crevice between the tire's bead and the rim. This is why Continental doesn't sell a stand-alone latex tube but they put latex in their high-end tubulars racing tires. Tubular racing tires are round and don't have irregularies that latex can creep into at high pressures. For clinchers, latex is OK as long as you use tubeless rim tape, use thicker/heavier latex such as the Vittoria latex, and run less than 70psi. If you use the lightest latex and also run very high pressures, yes, you're playing with fire as blowouts can happen even when the tube is installed correctly.
That's an interesting theory, but I've never seen any facts to back it up. Also, a proper sized rim strip goes wall to wall, and the tire beads overlap, thus there is no exposed edge for a tube to creep under. Some latex tubes are undersized in diameter and that makes it easy to pinch the tube under the bead, if you are not careful.pdlpsher1 wrote:Latex (especially the thin, lightweight ones) is prone to creep at high pressures. They will find and creep into the smallest openings, such as the gap on the edge of cotton rim tapes, and most notably the crevice between the tire's bead and the rim. This is why Continental doesn't sell a stand-alone latex tube but they put latex in their high-end tubulars racing tires. Tubular racing tires are round and don't have irregularies that latex can creep into at high pressures. For clinchers, latex is OK as long as you use tubeless rim tape, use thicker/heavier latex such as the Vittoria latex, and run less than 70psi. If you use the lightest latex and also run very high pressures, yes, you're playing with fire as blowouts can happen even when the tube is installed correctly.
Note that people who use Veloplugs have spontaneous blowouts not caused by flats. People who use tubulars with latex tubes have no issues.MikeD wrote: ↑Tue May 24, 2022 8:51 pmThat's an interesting theory, but I've never seen any facts to back it up.pdlpsher1 wrote:Latex (especially the thin, lightweight ones) is prone to creep at high pressures. They will find and creep into the smallest openings, such as the gap on the edge of cotton rim tapes, and most notably the crevice between the tire's bead and the rim. This is why Continental doesn't sell a stand-alone latex tube but they put latex in their high-end tubulars racing tires. Tubular racing tires are round and don't have irregularies that latex can creep into at high pressures. For clinchers, latex is OK as long as you use tubeless rim tape, use thicker/heavier latex such as the Vittoria latex, and run less than 70psi. If you use the lightest latex and also run very high pressures, yes, you're playing with fire as blowouts can happen even when the tube is installed correctly.