Rusted campagnolo tt bar end shifters
Moderator: robbosmans
Today I received a cervelo p2 tt bike for a cassette swap.
I couldn’t get it to shift correct.
Either up the cassete or down the cassette.
Friction in the cables is the suspect.
I thought I would quickly change housing and inner cables.
The problem:
The outer cable runs on the inside of extension.
So I need to remove the shifter in order to replace the housing.
But the screw to remove the shifter is rusted from sweaty hands.
Is there anything I can do or is he basically screwed?
I couldn’t get it to shift correct.
Either up the cassete or down the cassette.
Friction in the cables is the suspect.
I thought I would quickly change housing and inner cables.
The problem:
The outer cable runs on the inside of extension.
So I need to remove the shifter in order to replace the housing.
But the screw to remove the shifter is rusted from sweaty hands.
Is there anything I can do or is he basically screwed?
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This will sound crazy but how does the housing exit the aero bar? If you can feed a new inner cable through the shifter and aero bar you could maybe do a cable+housing swap without removing the shifter.
On my microshift tt shifters I can push the head out of the shifter and then pull the cable. Then I could feed a new cable through and try to get it to exit at the right point of the aero bar. Then with a new piece of right length housing I thread that on the inner cable and push it in until it's seated.
On my microshift tt shifters I can push the head out of the shifter and then pull the cable. Then I could feed a new cable through and try to get it to exit at the right point of the aero bar. Then with a new piece of right length housing I thread that on the inner cable and push it in until it's seated.
The housing exits the extension halfway. I tried gently if I could move the housing but it seems to be seated firmly. Maybe it is a thight fit, maybe it is also rusty.alcatraz wrote: ↑Thu Sep 26, 2019 1:41 amThis will sound crazy but how does the housing exit the aero bar? If you can feed a new inner cable through the shifter and aero bar you could maybe do a cable+housing swap without removing the shifter.
On my microshift tt shifters I can push the head out of the shifter and then pull the cable. Then I could feed a new cable through and try to get it to exit at the right point of the aero bar. Then with a new piece of right length housing I thread that on the inner cable and push it in until it's seated.
I fear that if I remove the housing I will be unable to slide up a new housing onto the inner cable and make it seat into the shifter.
Looks like the allen wrench fits on the inside (between the two shifters) and what your first photo shows is the "nut" side only.....so less of an issue.....I'd give it some penetrant at key areas and bust out the allen wrench a half day later to see if it breaks free.
If I read the tech docs correctly.tommasini wrote: ↑Thu Sep 26, 2019 5:06 amLooks like the allen wrench fits on the inside (between the two shifters) and what your first photo shows is the "nut" side only.....so less of an issue.....I'd give it some penetrant at key areas and bust out the allen wrench a half day later to see if it breaks free.
the outside screw is to take the shifter assembly apart
The inside screw is for the tilt adjest.
I used penetrant spray yesterday. Let's see if it this helps.
My guess is that the cable is oxidized and frayed inside the shifter/housing.
You can shift it to the big/big gear which should create play between housing and cable end when you shift back to small/small with the derailleurs detached. Then you can feel if the housing is stuck or not, and you should be able to push the head out of the shifter. I can on my microshift ones. In fact that would happen by itself if the cable were to get stuck as I try to shift to a smaller cog/chainring. The head would poke out by itself.
On my aero bars the housing also exits half way and it creates weird bends that require a bit of muscle to pull/feed housing past.
It could also be an oxidized ferrule/housing or frayed cable that's holding it in place.
You can shift it to the big/big gear which should create play between housing and cable end when you shift back to small/small with the derailleurs detached. Then you can feel if the housing is stuck or not, and you should be able to push the head out of the shifter. I can on my microshift ones. In fact that would happen by itself if the cable were to get stuck as I try to shift to a smaller cog/chainring. The head would poke out by itself.
On my aero bars the housing also exits half way and it creates weird bends that require a bit of muscle to pull/feed housing past.
It could also be an oxidized ferrule/housing or frayed cable that's holding it in place.
I tried that but I couldn't get the inner cable bushed out en there is no way grip the little lead barrel.alcatraz wrote: ↑Thu Sep 26, 2019 6:06 amMy guess is that the cable is oxidized and frayed inside the shifter/housing.
You can shift it to the big/big gear which should create play between housing and cable end when you shift back to small/small with the derailleurs detached. Then you can feel if the housing is stuck or not, and you should be able to push the head out of the shifter. I can on my microshift ones. In fact that would happen by itself if the cable were to get stuck as I try to shift to a smaller cog/chainring. The head would poke out by itself.
On my aero bars the housing also exits half way and it creates weird bends that require a bit of muscle to pull/feed housing past.
It could also be an oxidized ferrule/housing or frayed cable that's holding it in place.
Gave the bike back today.
I like working on bikes but not so much trying to resuscitate neglected bikes.
Thanks for all the replies though.
I've not worked with the 11 speed version but I'm pretty certain that one screw holds it on AND is for tilt adjustments to the lever - see this https://www.campagnolo.com/media/files/ ... _05_15.pdf
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Indeed, the disassembly bolt is the one on the outside of the shifter unit. You've given the bike back now, which is sensible, but it could have been worth trying to scratch the rust out of the bolt hole, then gently tapping a sharp AK into the hole. If you could have got purchase on the bolt it would not have needed much force to turn.
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