Alternative through axle advice

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c60rider
Posts: 873
Joined: Mon Feb 27, 2017 11:12 pm

by c60rider

I'm just making my first foray into road disc brake ownership and I haven't even got the bike finished yet and I'm incredibly frustrated with the through axles that came with the frame. I assumed they all came with a lever that just locked into position once you'd tightened the thread up. However the ones that came with my Ribble endurance SL frame you have to insert a 6mm allen key into the end instead. There isn't really enough opening to insert the allen deep enough for it to sit properly without it slipping out easily and this is going to chew up the hex slot in no time as I like to pull my bike apart regularly for cleaning/maintenance. I just assumed, wrongly perhaps, that I would just be able to purchase new ones with a lever such as those made by DT. It all seems totally confusing to me as to what, if any, I can purchase that would suit as I've read things that said it's essential not to lose the original axles that came with your frame as they're frame specific. They're standard width dropouts (100mm front, 142mm rear) and the dimensions are printed on the axles below.

Image

Looking at the DT site has only added to confusion for me as only one of the axles is listed as being road specific and that doesn't come with the lever. I've linked to the DT site for 12mm through axles

https://www.dtswiss.com/en/products/hubs-rws/rws/12-mm/

The entire length of the axle doesn't seem to quite match mine but the very first MTB specific one (does it matter if it makes reference to road or MTB?) is very close to mine (121mm) and further along there's one at 171mm which could be suitable for the rear. Any advice appreciated as to what my options are would be appreciated as would any links to suitable alternatives :noidea:

romanmoser
Posts: 573
Joined: Sun May 06, 2018 8:30 pm

by romanmoser

been using that kind of axles ( sram maxle front and shift up rear ) for years , removing my wheels several times a week to go on the smarttrainer or for cleaning it

no issues and the threads are fine

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wingguy
Posts: 4318
Joined: Thu Mar 08, 2012 11:43 pm

by wingguy

c60rider wrote:
Mon Mar 25, 2019 11:54 am
There isn't really enough opening to insert the allen deep enough for it to sit properly without it slipping out easily and this is going to chew up the hex slot in no time
Are you sure?

Every thru bolt axle I’ve seen has a bottomless hex slot, IIRC. If you had a long enough hex key you could shove it all the way in till it hits the other side.

All personal of course but I like the stealth thru bolts. Clean, secure and not prone to clamp mechanisms breaking like some quick-thrus. And outside of racing who cares about the extra 10 secs.
Last edited by wingguy on Mon Mar 25, 2019 12:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.

c60rider
Posts: 873
Joined: Mon Feb 27, 2017 11:12 pm

by c60rider

romanmoser wrote:
Mon Mar 25, 2019 12:21 pm
been using that kind of axles ( sram maxle front and shift up rear ) for years , removing my wheels several times a week to go on the smarttrainer or for cleaning it

no issues and the threads are fine
But the thread is not what I'm asking about

mattr
Posts: 4671
Joined: Fri May 25, 2007 6:43 pm
Location: The Grim North.

by mattr

wingguy wrote:
Mon Mar 25, 2019 12:33 pm
Every thru bolt axle I’ve seen has a bottomless hex slot, IIRC. If you had a long enough hex key you could shove it all the way in till it hits the other side.
The Hex bit will only be ~10mm deep, the rest will be just a straight hole. I have actually seen a few that have a solid bottom to the hex hole. Then either machined through from the other side, or left solid.

TBH, this might just be ribble cutting corners. Not that they've got a history of cheaping out on stuff or anything ;)

mattr
Posts: 4671
Joined: Fri May 25, 2007 6:43 pm
Location: The Grim North.

by mattr

HWQASM00S1460S for the front?
and probably HWQASM00S2034S for the back?

That's what i'd get.
Or a better allen key ;)

The axles are exactly the same, just that the MTB one gets the removable key.

c60rider
Posts: 873
Joined: Mon Feb 27, 2017 11:12 pm

by c60rider

Thanks guys I've sorted that. There was a hard rubber o-ring just beyond the initial 2mm of the opening. I've bullied my way through and sure enough the allen key inserts much deeper now :thumbup:

mattr
Posts: 4671
Joined: Fri May 25, 2007 6:43 pm
Location: The Grim North.

by mattr

The rubber o-ring is probably there to retain the key (that you haven't got!)

by Weenie


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wingguy
Posts: 4318
Joined: Thu Mar 08, 2012 11:43 pm

by wingguy

mattr wrote:
Mon Mar 25, 2019 12:49 pm
wingguy wrote:
Mon Mar 25, 2019 12:33 pm
Every thru bolt axle I’ve seen has a bottomless hex slot, IIRC. If you had a long enough hex key you could shove it all the way in till it hits the other side.
The Hex bit will only be ~10mm deep, the rest will be just a straight hole.
Yep for sure - but that should be more than enough for a huge amount of use, and it means you shouldn’t be rounding it off by cranking the hex head out of it, if you get my drift.

(And Ribble cheap? Whatever do you mean! :P )

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