Di2 8050 Ultegra Battery Drain
Moderator: robbosmans
Hi everyone,
i am writing since my local dealer cannot find any problem with my di2.
I recently upgraded to a 8050 DI2 on my canyon. With the DN 110 battery (It is a full 8050 Kit, no parts of old kits, all wires are new)
Before my first ride i charged it and on the days after (around 5 days) the battery was completely drained.
No reacting when using the levers on the front junction box (EW 90 A)
I charged it for half an hour and went out cycling.
I charged to around 75%.
Now, two weeks later i got something similar.
System dead although i cycled with my other bike.
I plug it in for 30 minutes. Then the charging suddenly stopped. I thought something was wrong but the di2 says "Fully charged".
I find this to be a little mysterious.
I connected it to my computer with the standard charger. The system is found by the di2 software and no error occurs.
Newest firmware is installed (as my shop says).
As i read through the internet i found that sometimes a misalignment of the RD can cause this problem. If the limit screws are not setup correctly the motor may be trying to put in a gear and constantly draws power from the battery. I followed the manual setting the L screw such that it is touching the link slightly and i allowed one turn of freeplay on the H screw (for overshifting).
Is there anyone who experienced the same issue with the 8050 Ultegra Di2?
May be i should charge it fully and then disconnect the RD and FD to see if the discharge happens again?
Best Regards,
Fuji
i am writing since my local dealer cannot find any problem with my di2.
I recently upgraded to a 8050 DI2 on my canyon. With the DN 110 battery (It is a full 8050 Kit, no parts of old kits, all wires are new)
Before my first ride i charged it and on the days after (around 5 days) the battery was completely drained.
No reacting when using the levers on the front junction box (EW 90 A)
I charged it for half an hour and went out cycling.
I charged to around 75%.
Now, two weeks later i got something similar.
System dead although i cycled with my other bike.
I plug it in for 30 minutes. Then the charging suddenly stopped. I thought something was wrong but the di2 says "Fully charged".
I find this to be a little mysterious.
I connected it to my computer with the standard charger. The system is found by the di2 software and no error occurs.
Newest firmware is installed (as my shop says).
As i read through the internet i found that sometimes a misalignment of the RD can cause this problem. If the limit screws are not setup correctly the motor may be trying to put in a gear and constantly draws power from the battery. I followed the manual setting the L screw such that it is touching the link slightly and i allowed one turn of freeplay on the H screw (for overshifting).
Is there anyone who experienced the same issue with the 8050 Ultegra Di2?
May be i should charge it fully and then disconnect the RD and FD to see if the discharge happens again?
Best Regards,
Fuji
Yes, start the troubleshooting by disconnecting a device after each ride. I would start with the RD. Another possibility is that you have a defective battery. A fully discharged battery will take much longer than 30min. to charge.
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- Posts: 3282
- Joined: Wed Mar 17, 2004 1:38 pm
Your junction A box might be the culprit. In my 9 years of using DI2 I have had two of them cause faults that prematurely drained the battery.
- wheelsONfire
- Posts: 6299
- Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2014 8:15 am
- Location: NorthEU
BdaGhisallo, Is that the one under stem you aim at when you say junction box?
For OP, have you used Shimano sm pce1?
I have had an issue, my bike have used up 3 batteries.
I bought PCE1 and checked the components.
Last issue i had, was the bike shifted really awkward.
I had to press each pad 2-3 times before it shifted.
It turned out to be a faulty battery again.
Shimano complains and says it has to be something faulty at my bike.
So i bought PCE1 and ran through all components which works flawless.
Except that it seems to eat batteries.
But mine does not drain, they end up getting damaged for some reason.
For OP, have you used Shimano sm pce1?
I have had an issue, my bike have used up 3 batteries.
I bought PCE1 and checked the components.
Last issue i had, was the bike shifted really awkward.
I had to press each pad 2-3 times before it shifted.
It turned out to be a faulty battery again.
Shimano complains and says it has to be something faulty at my bike.
So i bought PCE1 and ran through all components which works flawless.
Except that it seems to eat batteries.
But mine does not drain, they end up getting damaged for some reason.
Bikes:
Ax Lightness Vial EVO Race (2019.01.03)
Open *UP* (2016.04.14)
Paduano Racing Fidia (kind of shelved)
Ex bike; Vial EVO D, Vial EVO Ultra, Scott Foil, Paduano ti bike.
Ax Lightness Vial EVO Race (2019.01.03)
Open *UP* (2016.04.14)
Paduano Racing Fidia (kind of shelved)
Ex bike; Vial EVO D, Vial EVO Ultra, Scott Foil, Paduano ti bike.
- IrrelevantD
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- Joined: Sun Nov 29, 2015 5:47 pm
- Location: Near DFW Airport
Do you have a wireless unit for it? If so and you've connected it to a phone or tablet, open the app and make sure it's not trying to connect or still connected. There have been reports of similar issues due to Di2 staying connected or trying to connect to people's phones. Need to manually disconnect.
I supose it could be the deraileur setup, but in my experience if it's the low/high limit screw, Di2 will detect it within a few seconds and shift to the next cog toward the middle. At least that's what my 6870 did. If you have it on a workstand, you should be able to audibly hear the motor staying engaged.
I supose it could be the deraileur setup, but in my experience if it's the low/high limit screw, Di2 will detect it within a few seconds and shift to the next cog toward the middle. At least that's what my 6870 did. If you have it on a workstand, you should be able to audibly hear the motor staying engaged.
* There is a 70% chance that what you have just read has a peppering of cynicism or sarcasm and generally should not be taken seriously.
I'll leave it up to you to figure out the other 30%. If you are in any way offended, that's on you.
I'll leave it up to you to figure out the other 30%. If you are in any way offended, that's on you.
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- Posts: 3282
- Joined: Wed Mar 17, 2004 1:38 pm
Yup - that's the one.wheelsONfire wrote: ↑Sat Jun 16, 2018 2:36 pmBdaGhisallo, Is that the one under stem you aim at when you say junction box?
Thank you for all the replies.
The "junction" is the EW90 front connector box at my stem.
I have no wireless connection box (I read about the "connection" problem as well...)
Today i rode 140km without a problem. The shifting is fine.
Also i cannot hear the RD to stay "engaged" or feel the motor running in any gear.
What makes me think the most is the fact that the battery was empty (or the system did not answer) and after plugging the charger 30minutes later the system was back to 75%.
For me this points to a different problem, may be faulty electronics in the battery.
I guess the battery has a protection circuit. Below a certain level the system should be "dead" to protect the lithium cells.
May be there is an issue.
The "junction" is the EW90 front connector box at my stem.
I have no wireless connection box (I read about the "connection" problem as well...)
Today i rode 140km without a problem. The shifting is fine.
Also i cannot hear the RD to stay "engaged" or feel the motor running in any gear.
What makes me think the most is the fact that the battery was empty (or the system did not answer) and after plugging the charger 30minutes later the system was back to 75%.
For me this points to a different problem, may be faulty electronics in the battery.
I guess the battery has a protection circuit. Below a certain level the system should be "dead" to protect the lithium cells.
May be there is an issue.
-
- Posts: 3282
- Joined: Wed Mar 17, 2004 1:38 pm
Do you have a spare battery or Junction box you can swap in and do some testing?
Sadly not.
If disconnecting the RD and FD does not work i will recharge fully and then disconnect the junction box.
After a week or so i will reconnect the box and check the charge.
If then the battery is drained again it is likely to be the battery.
If disconnecting the RD and FD does not work i will recharge fully and then disconnect the junction box.
After a week or so i will reconnect the box and check the charge.
If then the battery is drained again it is likely to be the battery.
- IrrelevantD
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- Joined: Sun Nov 29, 2015 5:47 pm
- Location: Near DFW Airport
Yea, starting to sound like a bad battery. Lithium Ion battery packs typically have multiple cells. Sometimes you get a single bad cell and at certain power levels it will just report dead and shut down. I’ve seen it in happen in laptops and tablets a few times where they would hit a certain power level, like 50-60% and just shut down.
* There is a 70% chance that what you have just read has a peppering of cynicism or sarcasm and generally should not be taken seriously.
I'll leave it up to you to figure out the other 30%. If you are in any way offended, that's on you.
I'll leave it up to you to figure out the other 30%. If you are in any way offended, that's on you.
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com
- wheelsONfire
- Posts: 6299
- Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2014 8:15 am
- Location: NorthEU
Shimano SM PCE1 will show this directly after testing the units. You can also test the juction box.
It's great from this perspective, you'll never need to wonder what is the faulty component(s)
Bikes:
Ax Lightness Vial EVO Race (2019.01.03)
Open *UP* (2016.04.14)
Paduano Racing Fidia (kind of shelved)
Ex bike; Vial EVO D, Vial EVO Ultra, Scott Foil, Paduano ti bike.
Ax Lightness Vial EVO Race (2019.01.03)
Open *UP* (2016.04.14)
Paduano Racing Fidia (kind of shelved)
Ex bike; Vial EVO D, Vial EVO Ultra, Scott Foil, Paduano ti bike.