The wheelbuilding thread
Moderator: robbosmans
Forum rules
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
just received my new wheels from China.. and not sure, but is this normal?
Hubs are Powerway / Novatec... not branded. As you can see in this picture:
seems like the nippleholes are damaged because to high tension, or are those hubs like that??
Hubs are Powerway / Novatec... not branded. As you can see in this picture:
seems like the nippleholes are damaged because to high tension, or are those hubs like that??
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ok, that's good news!
I see a lot of talk about spoke count weight etc.
My head is spinning and not sure what to do.
I need to build rim brake wheelset - tubeless. I don't have anything to compare since this is my first road bike
Hubs - Soul Kozak
Rims - Pacenti SL23 or Velocity or Boyd (might go for carbon rims) - wide rims
Weight - little over 80kg
Reynolds claims that 20/24 is fine
Boyd claims 24/28 is a must.
This will be used for mostly for training.
My head is spinning and not sure what to do.
I need to build rim brake wheelset - tubeless. I don't have anything to compare since this is my first road bike
Hubs - Soul Kozak
Rims - Pacenti SL23 or Velocity or Boyd (might go for carbon rims) - wide rims
Weight - little over 80kg
Reynolds claims that 20/24 is fine
Boyd claims 24/28 is a must.
This will be used for mostly for training.
Hello there,
I've decided to build my first pair of wheels for my road bike. I'm a light cyclist (55kg) and ride occasionally with friends and commute daily (12km minimum) when weather allows. As it is my first build I feel it is wise to choose a higher spoke count than necessary (24/28) as this will make it easier to build a true wheel. This is what I have in mind:
Hubs: BHS SLF85W (24) and BHS SL210 (28)
Rims: Kinlin XC279
Spokes: Sapim Race
Nipples: Brass (come with spokes)
What I have not decided on are the spoke patterns. For the front it will be either radial or 2 as I like the looks of it. For the rear I was thinking of 3 or perhaps the option of taking a 18-9 rear hub. But looking at pictures of the xc279 the holes seem staggered which, from my understanding, does not combine well with 18-9 drilling.
All I'm after is an easy build that I can enjoy for a long time, so if anyone has some tips on how to improve my build choices I'd like to hear them.
Regards,
Gabriel
I've decided to build my first pair of wheels for my road bike. I'm a light cyclist (55kg) and ride occasionally with friends and commute daily (12km minimum) when weather allows. As it is my first build I feel it is wise to choose a higher spoke count than necessary (24/28) as this will make it easier to build a true wheel. This is what I have in mind:
Hubs: BHS SLF85W (24) and BHS SL210 (28)
Rims: Kinlin XC279
Spokes: Sapim Race
Nipples: Brass (come with spokes)
What I have not decided on are the spoke patterns. For the front it will be either radial or 2 as I like the looks of it. For the rear I was thinking of 3 or perhaps the option of taking a 18-9 rear hub. But looking at pictures of the xc279 the holes seem staggered which, from my understanding, does not combine well with 18-9 drilling.
All I'm after is an easy build that I can enjoy for a long time, so if anyone has some tips on how to improve my build choices I'd like to hear them.
Regards,
Gabriel
You won't have a problem building and riding 20/24.
Mackers wrote:If you can find a 27 hole rim the spoke holes will more than likely be drilled for 2:1 lacing, since that's the only pattern that makes sense.
My bad, the 2:1 lacing is only an option if I go for a 24 rim with 16:8. Wouldn't know where to find a 27 hole xc279. But am I right to think that this won't work with a staggered hole pattern in the rim?
It will work, but it's not very nice
If you go for 24h in the rear, why not build 1:1 and use thicker spokes on the drive side? I ride this configuration on 3 sets and have no problems with 20/24 at 77kg and some pretty hard riding, even off-road.
If you go for 24h in the rear, why not build 1:1 and use thicker spokes on the drive side? I ride this configuration on 3 sets and have no problems with 20/24 at 77kg and some pretty hard riding, even off-road.
Did you consider the XR31T (BHS31c) rim? That is a nice rim; deeper and I think weight is similar.
For your weight I agree that 20/24 is likely more than adequate, but if you want to do 24/28 certainly that will be a stronger wheel.
If 24/28 I would do 2x front and rear; I.e. just stick with a standard pattern for those spoke counts (radial front works too). If 20/24 I would do radial front and 2x rear.
Good hub choices.
For your weight I agree that 20/24 is likely more than adequate, but if you want to do 24/28 certainly that will be a stronger wheel.
If 24/28 I would do 2x front and rear; I.e. just stick with a standard pattern for those spoke counts (radial front works too). If 20/24 I would do radial front and 2x rear.
Good hub choices.
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Go with the kinlin xr31t front and rt rear with laser or cx ray spokes. That wheelset propely built will take a 100 kg rider.
There was a 27h sl23 that bhs used to list. Not a common rim drilling.
There was a 27h sl23 that bhs used to list. Not a common rim drilling.
The build I suggested earlier is supposed to be budget build. Which as always became more expensive than planned. I started of with the idea of building up Miche Primato hubs with DT R460. So no x31t or cx ray.
Will probably stick with the 24/28. If the set turns out nicely I'll have a bomb proof set and I can start thinking of more exotic sets.
Still need to look into the idea of having thicker spokes on the drive side. The explanation on sheldonbrown is as clear as mud. Does anyone have a good resource for this? A very quick glance at Musson and Brandt did not help.
Will probably stick with the 24/28. If the set turns out nicely I'll have a bomb proof set and I can start thinking of more exotic sets.
Still need to look into the idea of having thicker spokes on the drive side. The explanation on sheldonbrown is as clear as mud. Does anyone have a good resource for this? A very quick glance at Musson and Brandt did not help.
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Spokes break from going slack repeatedly.
In the rear, you'll have much lower tension on the non-drive side, so spokes can go slack under high rear wheel loads like climbing out of the saddle.
By putting stiffer spokes on the drive side (where the spokes have a low bracing angle) you make the wheel stiffer and so prevent the non-drive side spokes from becoming fully unloaded.
In the rear, you'll have much lower tension on the non-drive side, so spokes can go slack under high rear wheel loads like climbing out of the saddle.
By putting stiffer spokes on the drive side (where the spokes have a low bracing angle) you make the wheel stiffer and so prevent the non-drive side spokes from becoming fully unloaded.