Light Bicycle wheel rims?

[pmprego]

Given that you've added the carbon ti part. How's your feedback regarding them? This is ww and the carbon ti option is the ww option to go. It's the lightest without the financial impact that the dt180 have. They have some preload thing (im not even close to a home Mechanic particularly with respect to wheels) while the dt swiss are supposed to be put and forget.

I'm decided on going the 465 in the rear wondering about dt240exp vs carbon ti crazy light option. I'm debating over going the 375 in the front or the also x-flow wr40 rim just for the front also.

Very happy with the carbon ti hubs. I already own a set wr65 with carbon ti hubs. Did not need to adjust the preload so far (~5000km).

Cna you link something where they explain/show what preload is that?

I'm just trying to understand what labor would be involved. Moreover, how one would understand if there is the need for that preload adjustment?

(did I already say I'm no home mechanic? I like to learn and do it but wheels is something I never tried to service myself.)

here it is shown: https://www.carbon-ti.com/Allegati/X-Hub_ROAD_front.pdf

no real labour at all. You just have to tighten/loosen the reload adapter when your wheel does not spin properly. I came from bora wtos which have the same mechanism.

Thanks!!

[Hexsense]

mine came with tight freehub body.
Symptom is, when I suddenly free wheel the cassette still rotate forward momentary, chain slack down to almost touch chainstay before it stop and then rear derailleur pull chain back.

But since it is so easy to take hub apart. I remove endcap, freehub and axle and inspect everything. Replace original thick greass with light oil on the freehub body and assemble it back. Set bearing preload properly. That solved it. My Carbon-Ti hub have lower freewheel drag vs my previous Novatec and Bitex hub, despite having more freehub engagement points. I heard DT-Swiss to have more drag once you use star ratchet with more than 18T engagement points.

[pmprego]

mine came with tight freehub body.
Symptom is, when I suddenly free wheel the cassette still rotate forward momentary, chain slack down to almost touch chainstay before it stop and then rear derailleur pull chain back.

But since it is so easy to take hub apart. I remove endcap, freehub and axle and inspect everything. Replace original thick greass with light oil on the freehub body and assemble it back. Set bearing preload properly. That solved it. My Carbon-Ti hub have lower freewheel drag vs my previous Novatec and Bitex hub, despite having more freehub engagement points. I heard DT-Swiss to have more drag once you use star ratchet with more than 18T engagement points.

Thanks!

[choochoo46]

I'm thinking about getting some light more aero wheels for my lgihtweight bike a rim brake Wilier Zero.7. It's supposed to fit up to 28mm wheels but has 25mm GP5000's currently and that's probably what I will stay with.

I'm looking at the AR46 wheels for an all around wheel, but have never had wheels that wide before. If the Wilier Zero.7 takes up to 28mm tires, those wide rims should work, correct? Would those work better with my bike and 25mm tires or should I go for the narrower R45's (25mm)?

Also is their any reason I shouldn't go with the Bitex FAR10/RAR9 hubs? They are light and cheap. I've got two other wheelsets with DT240's but don't want to double the cost of these rims as this bike doesn't get as much saddle time as some others (though I hope new rims will fix that).

Is is worth $35 to get the Sapim X-Ray spokes over the Pillar Aero X-TRA 1420?

Lastly if this is for dry riding only (I use a disc brake bike in the wet) is there any reason to pay $60 extra for the grooved surface?

Thanks!

Cool bike! I'd been looking to buy a Wilier Zero 7 frame and they're not in stock anywhere. Gave up and got an Emonda SRL RSL frame instead.

1. The AR46 are 21mm internal, 28mm external, so that would mate very well with the 25mm GP5000s and still be within the 105% rule. When mounted the 25mm GPs will probably be close to 27mm.

The rim-brake version of the R45s are 17.9 internal and 25mm external. When mounted the same 25m GPs will put you over the 105% rule, thereby reducing the areo gains of a deeper wheel.

2. I don't have any experience with the LB non-grooved rim brake surfaces. I do find if I grab a big handful of brake on my AR56s (deer jumped out in front of me), I'll go into a skid (managed to stay up though). So you may get better control with a less aggressive brake track pattern.

[RDY]

Actually, they are probably not saying that. I think they didn't have access or didn't want to pay for testing in a place where different yaw angles were possible. There is no logical reason to assume the wheels perform worst than a similar standard rim. If that would be the case then the zipps or Princeton would also have a similar problem.

A wind tunnel setup that can't test different yaw angles?

I've heard it all now.

[pmprego]

Actually, they are probably not saying that. I think they didn't have access or didn't want to pay for testing in a place where different yaw angles were possible. There is no logical reason to assume the wheels perform worst than a similar standard rim. If that would be the case then the zipps or Princeton would also have a similar problem.

A wind tunnel setup that can't test different yaw angles?

I've heard it all now.

I also mentioned "didn't want to pay for it". As for the infrastructure even other day someone posted a video of someone aero testing a rear derailleur in small scale wind tunnel. Of course you could always put the wheels side ways but that's why I mentioned the "didn't want to pay for it". See... I've just covered my sentence and you have just learned something new. Don't worry, I give it for free.

[Mocs123]

Cool bike! I'd been looking to buy a Wilier Zero 7 frame and they're not in stock anywhere. Gave up and got an Emonda SRL RSL frame instead.

1. The AR46 are 21mm internal, 28mm external, so that would mate very well with the 25mm GP5000s and still be within the 105% rule. When mounted the 25mm GPs will probably be close to 27mm.

The rim-brake version of the R45s are 17.9 internal and 25mm external. When mounted the same 25m GPs will put you over the 105% rule, thereby reducing the areo gains of a deeper wheel.

2. I don't have any experience with the LB non-grooved rim brake surfaces. I do find if I grab a big handful of brake on my AR56s (deer jumped out in front of me), I'll go into a skid (managed to stay up though). So you may get better control with a less aggressive brake track pattern.

Thanks! I'm getting tantilizing close to ordering a set of AR46's. Right now it has a set of Bontrager RaceXXXLight's from 2006 (the frame is a 2015). The RaceXXXLight's are light (~1350g) but they are really narrow (probably made for 23's) and not aero at all. I'm thinking trying to get in the same weight range with a more aero wheelset will make it a faster all around bike rather than just a climber. I haven't gotten to ride it a ton due to all the rain. I've got a 61km (38 mile) club ride today after work and it looks like it will be raining again, making me ride my disc brake bike.

[RDY]

Actually, they are probably not saying that. I think they didn't have access or didn't want to pay for testing in a place where different yaw angles were possible. There is no logical reason to assume the wheels perform worst than a similar standard rim. If that would be the case then the zipps or Princeton would also have a similar problem.

A wind tunnel setup that can't test different yaw angles?

I've heard it all now.

I also mentioned "didn't want to pay for it". As for the infrastructure even other day someone posted a video of someone aero testing a rear derailleur in small scale wind tunnel. Of course you could always put the wheels side ways but that's why I mentioned the "didn't want to pay for it". See... I've just covered my sentence and you have just learned something new. Don't worry, I give it for free.

You're making up silly excuses. If they bothered to put it in a wind tunnel at all, I think it's very unlikely they didn't compare yaw angles. And if you were only going to test one yaw, it would be 10-15° not 0. There's a very obvious and most probably correct explanation for the gulf between claims they've made and the data (or lack thereof) provided.

Also I don't think there's been a notable wheel brand who've tried a similar shape before - and surely they're not the first to think of it. It's probably not so much that it's marginal (like Princeton / ZIPP), but it just doesn't work at all. Maybe it does have very good results re: stiffness relative to weight, but that probably will only matter for the 365. Again, probably given the lack of data and their evasiveness, stiffness gains come at an unacceptable aero cost on deeper section rims.

[ezr1der]

Given that you've added the carbon ti part. How's your feedback regarding them? This is ww and the carbon ti option is the ww option to go. It's the lightest without the financial impact that the dt180 have. They have some preload thing (im not even close to a home Mechanic particularly with respect to wheels) while the dt swiss are supposed to be put and forget.

I'm decided on going the 465 in the rear wondering about dt240exp vs carbon ti crazy light option. I'm debating over going the 375 in the front or the also x-flow wr40 rim just for the front also.

Very happy with the carbon ti hubs. I already own a set wr65 with carbon ti hubs. Did not need to adjust the preload so far (~5000km).

Cna you link something where they explain/show what preload is that?

I'm just trying to understand what labor would be involved. Moreover, how one would understand if there is the need for that preload adjustment?

(did I already say I'm no home mechanic? I like to learn and do it but wheels is something I never tried to service myself.)

Just to chime in, I purchased a set of WR45s with the CarbonTI hub..and the freehub sound is obnoxiously loud. It's quite off-putting. I tried some additional grease in the freehub but it didnt have a material affect. Be prepared to have difficulties chatting with buddies while coasting and annoying anyone around you within earshot. I kinda wish I had purchased a different hub for the few gram weight difference.

[pmprego]

Given that you've added the carbon ti part. How's your feedback regarding them? This is ww and the carbon ti option is the ww option to go. It's the lightest without the financial impact that the dt180 have. They have some preload thing (im not even close to a home Mechanic particularly with respect to wheels) while the dt swiss are supposed to be put and forget.

I'm decided on going the 465 in the rear wondering about dt240exp vs carbon ti crazy light option. I'm debating over going the 375 in the front or the also x-flow wr40 rim just for the front also.

Very happy with the carbon ti hubs. I already own a set wr65 with carbon ti hubs. Did not need to adjust the preload so far (~5000km).

Cna you link something where they explain/show what preload is that?

I'm just trying to understand what labor would be involved. Moreover, how one would understand if there is the need for that preload adjustment?

(did I already say I'm no home mechanic? I like to learn and do it but wheels is something I never tried to service myself.)

Just to chime in, I purchased a set of WR45s with the CarbonTI hub..and the freehub sound is obnoxiously loud. It's quite off-putting. I tried some additional grease in the freehub but it didnt have a material affect. Be prepared to have difficulties chatting with buddies while coasting and annoying anyone around you within earshot. I kinda wish I had purchased a different hub for the few gram weight difference.

Thanks! Actually i do prefer quiet hubs. Will take that into account.

[Steve Curtis]

Strange. I'm not saying you're wrong about carbon-Ti huns but mine aren't very loud at all compared to Reynolds which are bloody annoying.
I'd say they were mid table on volume with American classic being least and hope being stupid

[bilwit]

Cna you link something where they explain/show what preload is that?

I'm just trying to understand what labor would be involved. Moreover, how one would understand if there is the need for that preload adjustment?

(did I already say I'm no home mechanic? I like to learn and do it but wheels is something I never tried to service myself.)

There's a little grub screw on the NDS that can be loosened so that you can tighten the preload. If there's too much side-to-side give/flex then it probably needs to be tightened. If it doesn't spin very smoothly then it might need to be loosened.

Just to chime in, I purchased a set of WR45s with the CarbonTI hub..and the freehub sound is obnoxiously loud. It's quite off-putting. I tried some additional grease in the freehub but it didnt have a material affect. Be prepared to have difficulties chatting with buddies while coasting and annoying anyone around you within earshot. I kinda wish I had purchased a different hub for the few gram weight difference.

Did you open it up and oil the pawls?

[Hexsense]

My Carbon-TI is quieter than Hope and DT-Swiss (36t ratchet) even though I use only oil on the freehub pawls.
Just oil, not a single drip of grease.

[mathieurrr]

Has anyone ever seen a comparison between the Winspace Hyper and Light Bicycle AR56? I currently have the WR65 but I'm thinking I want to be more nimble on my Allez Sprint and want to ride 25mm tires instead. I'm wondering if I make the switch to Winspace or stay with LB.

[emotive]

Has anyone ever seen a comparison between the Winspace Hyper and Light Bicycle AR56? I currently have the WR65 but I'm thinking I want to be more nimble on my Allez Sprint and want to ride 25mm tires instead. I'm wondering if I make the switch to Winspace or stay with LB.

I don’t think such a comparison exists. I also have WR65’s. If I was to set up a climbing wheelset for lighter feel with 25mm tyres I would be looking at the LB AR35 with flyweight rims.