Light Bicycle wheel rims?
Moderator: robbosmans
Forum rules
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
I have WR50 (Pro) and WR65 (non Pro) and the appearance is very similar. I think you will be happy.Aryeh wrote:Does anyone know if its possible to get a pro WR65?
Edit: I just ordered a single WR65 non pro but with the pro decal and satin vertical twill finish so it hopefully matches my WR50 set that I already own.
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Wow, this bike is absolutely..WOW
just to not go OT, can i ask you how long does it take to get the wheels from China to Europe? More or less
With FEDEX it was about a week and a half door to door to Spain.itapersita wrote:Wow, this bike is absolutely..WOW
just to not go OT, can i ask you how long does it take to get the wheels from China to Europe? More or less
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Hi, some help needed if possible. My new AR45s arrived and I took to my LBS to install. They have the Carbon Ti hub.
Received a call from the mechanic stating that the hub doesn’t align properly in the bike. It’s the correct size but the hub offset is not lining up with the drive or rotor side - it’s 1mm too little space on the rotor side and 1mm extra space on the drive side. See pictures below.
I've contacted light bicycle, but wanted to see if the good people here could shed any light on the issue?
Seems odd, and the fact I'm mechanically inept doesn't help!
Received a call from the mechanic stating that the hub doesn’t align properly in the bike. It’s the correct size but the hub offset is not lining up with the drive or rotor side - it’s 1mm too little space on the rotor side and 1mm extra space on the drive side. See pictures below.
I've contacted light bicycle, but wanted to see if the good people here could shed any light on the issue?
Seems odd, and the fact I'm mechanically inept doesn't help!
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scatsob wrote: ↑Thu May 06, 2021 11:13 amWith FEDEX it was about a week and a half door to door to Spain.itapersita wrote:Wow, this bike is absolutely..WOW
just to not go OT, can i ask you how long does it take to get the wheels from China to Europe? More or less
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You mean from when you ordered the wheela till they arrived at your door or just for the shipping (without the assembly)?
Just shipping. It was three months wait on manufacture because of the WR50 and how they batch things. If I had just ordered two WR65’s it would have been two months less.itapersita wrote:scatsob wrote: ↑Thu May 06, 2021 11:13 amWith FEDEX it was about a week and a half door to door to Spain.itapersita wrote:Wow, this bike is absolutely..WOW
just to not go OT, can i ask you how long does it take to get the wheels from China to Europe? More or less
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You mean from when you ordered the wheela till they arrived at your door or just for the shipping (without the assembly)?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Looks nice, am also thinking about the AR46 from the EU warehouse but have been put off a little because of the engagement problem with DT240 exp hubs. Have no idea how often the problem occurs. Do you know the serialnumber of your rear hub?
Seems really odd. I'm not really familiar with the Carbon-Ti hubs but maybe you have somehow ended up with the wrong bearing preload adjuster? There appears to be two different versions of different widths.JAMSXR wrote: ↑Thu May 06, 2021 11:42 amHi, some help needed if possible. My new AR45s arrived and I took to my LBS to install. They have the Carbon Ti hub.
Received a call from the mechanic stating that the hub doesn’t align properly in the bike. It’s the correct size but the hub offset is not lining up with the drive or rotor side - it’s 1mm too little space on the rotor side and 1mm extra space on the drive side. See pictures below.
I've contacted light bicycle, but wanted to see if the good people here could shed any light on the issue?
Seems odd, and the fact I'm mechanically inept doesn't help!
https://www.carbon-ti.com/products/hubs ... ed-bps-509
https://www.carbon-ti.com/products/hubs ... locked-bps
Thanks for the reply. I sorted it after contacting Carbon TI.. it was a bearing preload tuning problem, solved by a rubber mallet.CamW wrote: ↑Fri May 07, 2021 12:35 amSeems really odd. I'm not really familiar with the Carbon-Ti hubs but maybe you have somehow ended up with the wrong bearing preload adjuster? There appears to be two different versions of different widths.JAMSXR wrote: ↑Thu May 06, 2021 11:42 amHi, some help needed if possible. My new AR45s arrived and I took to my LBS to install. They have the Carbon Ti hub.
Received a call from the mechanic stating that the hub doesn’t align properly in the bike. It’s the correct size but the hub offset is not lining up with the drive or rotor side - it’s 1mm too little space on the rotor side and 1mm extra space on the drive side. See pictures below.
I've contacted light bicycle, but wanted to see if the good people here could shed any light on the issue?
Seems odd, and the fact I'm mechanically inept doesn't help!
https://www.carbon-ti.com/products/hubs ... ed-bps-509
https://www.carbon-ti.com/products/hubs ... locked-bps
It could be a bearing preload tuning problem. If the axle end (on drive side) is not perfectly in contact with the outer bearing of the freewheel it could be that everything remains more moved to the left with the bearing preload fully open.
To verify this, you have to remove the wheel, hit the internal axle of the hub on the drive side with a plastic hammer to put the axle end in perfect contact with the external bearing and finally tighten the bearing preload (after unscrew the grub screw) with your fingers clockwise until it stops. Since then you can loosen a quarter turn to take the pressure off the bearings. Please check if the axle end is correctly tighened too.
This way everything must be perfectly centered.
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Im guessing that when the wheel builder inserted the axle back into the hub he just tightened up the preload nut and locked the grub screw. What he needed to do after installing the axle was to undo the preload nut all the way out, then smack the drive side of the axle first, then tighten the preload nut and grub screw. That will give you that extra couple millimetres.
If he didn’t do that I imagine you’d have premature bearing failure since the preload nut isn’t actually doing it’s job.
If he didn’t do that I imagine you’d have premature bearing failure since the preload nut isn’t actually doing it’s job.
I was looking to get the AR56 rim brake wheels but their 30mm external width was too much for my brake calipers. Then i was offered a custom version of AR56 with 28mm external width which is not featured on the website. Is there any reason i shouldn't get these? I know the regular AR56 has really good reviews but would making them thinner mess with the dynamics or make it worse in some way? That's the question i have.
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Have this 21/28mm variant of AR56 rim with disc brake hubs. 2mm of rim width IMHO is not that important, because I use 25c tires only. 25c GP5000TL sit nicely and that's what I wantedVeto wrote: ↑Fri May 07, 2021 11:14 amI was looking to get the AR56 rim brake wheels but their 30mm external width was too much for my brake calipers. Then i was offered a custom version of AR56 with 28mm external width which is not featured on the website. Is there any reason i shouldn't get these? I know the regular AR56 has really good reviews but would making them thinner mess with the dynamics or make it worse in some way? That's the question i have.
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Yep, glad it was sorted. Would have been worse if it was in the right position but loose!iamraymond wrote: ↑Fri May 07, 2021 10:41 amIm guessing that when the wheel builder inserted the axle back into the hub he just tightened up the preload nut and locked the grub screw. What he needed to do after installing the axle was to undo the preload nut all the way out, then smack the drive side of the axle first, then tighten the preload nut and grub screw. That will give you that extra couple millimetres.
If he didn’t do that I imagine you’d have premature bearing failure since the preload nut isn’t actually doing it’s job.
I've sent a mail to Light Bicycle so hopefully they can prevent it happening again.