Neutron wheel out of dish?

[moelstrom]

Have you checked the drive side drop out for wear?
I've seen a loose skewer cause wear that wasn't noticed until the tyre touched the seat tube (on a 90's TT bike so FAR less clearance).

Also, please check the wheel properly by flipping it in the drop outs and seeing if the dish is still the same way. (It was mentioned above, i can't see that you've done it.)

You could also try making your own dishing tool (they aren't hard, you can even do it with bits of cardboard, but they aren't very durable!)

The drive side dropout is a little worn, but only very slightly. I reversed the wheel, and the clearance problem is the same on the other side of the frame; the problem is the wheel, not the dropouts.

Also I inserted another wheel and it was fine.

[mattr]

https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-mech ... -tool.html

[joejack951]

I'm finding it really hard to believe that the drive-side would loosen equally such that the dish would be off yet the wheel would still be perfectly true.

With a reasonably stiff rim the loss of tension doesn't need to be all that even for the rim to remain true.

[bikerjulio]

I'm finding it really hard to believe that the drive-side would loosen equally such that the dish would be off yet the wheel would still be perfectly true.

With a reasonably stiff rim the loss of tension doesn't need to be all that even for the rim to remain true.

Neutron is not a stiff rim though.

It's a low profile alloy. Very light. Very comfortable. But not stiff.

[Hellgate]

Have you checked it with a dishing tool? I'd think the motor bike shop would have one.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk

[wheelbuilder]

Assuming your spokes/nipples aren't frozen, and you are methodical with 1/8th nipple turns at a time, you can center that wheel in the frame while it is on the bike. Tighten spokes on the side of the flange/rim that you want the wheel to move towards. Loosen spokes if neccesary on the side you don't want the wheel to be.

[JAQ1]

Just because no one has asked, but have you serviced the hub recently, or have it serviced?

Could it be that you removed the axle and mistakenly left out a spacer on the NDS or even put a NDS spacer on the DS?

[joejack951]

I'm finding it really hard to believe that the drive-side would loosen equally such that the dish would be off yet the wheel would still be perfectly true.

With a reasonably stiff rim the loss of tension doesn't need to be all that even for the rim to remain true.

Neutron is not a stiff rim though.

It's a low profile alloy. Very light. Very comfortable. But not stiff.

Rim width and wall thickness play more of a part in a rim's lateral stiffness than height. Given the wheelset weight and the spoke count, the rims must be reasonably stiff and stout to survive as well as owners claim they do.

[bikerjulio]

Rim width and wall thickness play more of a part in a rim's lateral stiffness than height. Given the wheelset weight and the spoke count, the rims must be reasonably stiff and stout to survive as well as owners claim they do.

Neutrons are Campy's lightest alloy wheel I believe at 1,470 g. And that's with Campy's not particularly light hubs.

[moelstrom]

Just because no one has asked, but have you serviced the hub recently, or have it serviced?

Could it be that you removed the axle and mistakenly left out a spacer on the NDS or even put a NDS spacer on the DS?

Nope, no service on this hub since 2012, AFAIK. Pretty awesome, considering that I've done +/- 20k kms in that period. So I don't think it's a misplaced spacer.

Thank you for answering.

[moelstrom]

Assuming your spokes/nipples aren't frozen, and you are methodical with 1/8th nipple turns at a time, you can center that wheel in the frame while it is on the bike. Tighten spokes on the side of the flange/rim that you want the wheel to move towards. Loosen spokes if neccesary on the side you don't want the wheel to be.

Thank you very much for this. Simple, easy-to-follow instructions - you are a savior!