Slammed stems...
Moderator: robbosmans
cant remember if it was 3t , cervelo or someone else that said you should never slam the stem, you should always have at least a 10mm spacer below the stem. think it was something to do with distorting the steerer tube near where the bearing is.
bikedoc wrote:cant remember if it was 3t , cervelo or someone else that said you should never slam the stem, you should always have at least a 10mm spacer below the stem. think it was something to do with distorting the steerer tube near where the bearing is.
It was trek after a couple of incidences of folks sheering their carbon steerers.
http://velonews.competitor.com/2010/06/ ... bes_121389
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bikedoc wrote:cant remember if it was 3t , cervelo or someone else that said you should never slam the stem, you should always have at least a 10mm spacer below the stem. think it was something to do with distorting the steerer tube near where the bearing is.
I think 10's the lowest I'd go personally.
This is the only 10mm conical spacer I could find:
http://www.carboncycles.cc/?s=0&t=2&c=71&p=977&
If anyone knows of any alternatives, please let me know.
Thanks.
Edit:
Mmm...It looks like I need a little "Soul".
Speaking of backs & flexibility...
I'm no pro racer, but I have over 2 decades of working "bent over" and have been
well conditioned to being having my back bent. In fact, I find it very comfortable.
In fact, I don't like riding upright (what I believe most would consider to be more comfortable).
I just personally prefer the more aggressive position.
I'm no pro racer, but I have over 2 decades of working "bent over" and have been
well conditioned to being having my back bent. In fact, I find it very comfortable.
In fact, I don't like riding upright (what I believe most would consider to be more comfortable).
I just personally prefer the more aggressive position.
Here's my slammed stem:
Pinarello Dogma 65.1 Think 2: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=139324
Greenduck,
Is that 5mm?
Is that 5mm?
Here is mine. I used a cassette spacer as a shim between the stem and the top of the headset bearing cap. What I really like about the look is the stem angle matches (by complete fluke of course) the top tube angle .
Edit; posted wrong picture
Edit; posted wrong picture
Last edited by Mikmik on Fri Jan 06, 2012 9:41 am, edited 2 times in total.
It's not how much you spend on a bike it's how hard you can ride it.
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This thread has come along at the right time as the head tube on my new Colnago is that bloody tall that even with a 'slammed' stem my handle bars are still an inch higher than on my six year old Trek Madone and it was still about 20mm off being slammed and had a shorter stem. The Colnago already has a 5mm top cap on it, so my only option now is a -17 degree stem.
I slam my stems. Most stock geo road race bikes can fit me if I check the stack height before I buy. Depending on the brand, that usually ends up being a 54 or 56. Something with a 56cm stack will readily fit with a slammed -17 degree stem. The reach can usually be compensated for by using a ~130mm stem with an average reach bar (Except on Cervelos!).
Mr.Gib wrote:I think this is where you are making a mistake. If it was my money I'd be looking for a frame that climbs like a scalded baby monkey on amphetamines. A goat on steroids will just not be as fast uphill.
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Privateer wrote:Rumsas wrote:If you guys want to slam, but don't have the body/back for it.
Just do like Mr Landis and slam it, then reverse it.
He actually won the tdf on a old mans bike, hahaha
No, he didn't.
Yeah i know , actually the bike Pereiro used was really slammed, The perfect geometry imo