LOOK 695 XXL with Campy EPS v3....
Moderators: MrCurrieinahurry, maxim809, Moderator Team
Hi all,
I have just upgraded my LOOK 695 to Campy EPS v3 and I thought I would post on how I fitted it as it may help others……..
So first here’s the finished bike:
The first issue I encountered was how to mount the power unit down the seat tube. The power unit has a small metal threaded insert in the end, which I think is to be used to attach the Campag fitting tool. I decided to use this to attach the power unit to the bottom of the seat post.
As the frame was designed for Di2, there was a clip at the end of the seat post to hold the Di2 power unit but this could not be used for the Campag power unit so it was removed. I then drilled a small hole in the seat post end cap to insert a bolt and then countersinking the head so the small bolt threads just poked through. The bolt was one that came in the pack with the frame and luckily it was the same thread as on the bottom of the EPS power unit. I was then able to add a bit of thread lock and mount the power unit on this screw, and by chance this slid down into the seat tube nicely…. (this mod may also apply to the LOOK 795, but cant be 100% sure)
One thing I don’t like is mess, so rather than having those bands round my stem to hold the interface on, I have just stuck the interface onto the underside of the stem with strong double sided tape (the thin foam type that is used to hold car number plates on)…. It seems to be holding after a couple of rides.….
Also for a cleaner look, I ran the interface to power unit cable, through the same hole as the brake cable, to save having the separate wire going down through the RD hole. However there is no way through from the top tube to the seat tube, so it has to be routed via the hole in the top tube, down the headtube \ down tube then up the seat tube. I then got some carbon effect patches to cover up the down tube holes, which I prefer as an alternative to the metal blanking plates.
Included in the LOOK pack were two small cable guides that could be used to run the RD cable round the inside bottom of the BB shell, I thought it should have gone outside and over the top of the BB shell, but this wasn’t to be, so the guides were used. I also put a small bit of duct tape on just to be sure, but I don’t think this was really needed…
The RD cable was only just long enough to be able to hide the connector in the frame.
All in, the fitting was fairly straightforward. I started with guiding mechanical gear cables through the whole frame to see how the wires would run. I then ran the interface cable first, followed by the RD and finally the FD (the shifter cables just connect straight to the interface, so no routing needed).
One slight issue is that the cables were not long enough to have the power unit out of the seat tube while fitting. So I had to make sure all the cables were routed correctly before plugging everything in and then setting everything up….
Test ride with no vibrations at all, better than with mechanical where the gear and brake cables used to chatter over certain terrain…. Shifting is spot on as expected…
Weight of the full bike before with SR shifters, SR RD and Record FD was 6.241kg. Weight now with EPS SR shifters, Record RD and Record FD is 6.38kg so only an addition of 140g. I was expecting more like 200g. I am actually amazed it is such a small difference…..
I hope this helps someone else out as I searched the net for info on ‘Fitting EPS v3 to a LOOK 695) and found nothing. Any questions feel free to PM me…
Cheers,
Lig.
I have just upgraded my LOOK 695 to Campy EPS v3 and I thought I would post on how I fitted it as it may help others……..
So first here’s the finished bike:
The first issue I encountered was how to mount the power unit down the seat tube. The power unit has a small metal threaded insert in the end, which I think is to be used to attach the Campag fitting tool. I decided to use this to attach the power unit to the bottom of the seat post.
As the frame was designed for Di2, there was a clip at the end of the seat post to hold the Di2 power unit but this could not be used for the Campag power unit so it was removed. I then drilled a small hole in the seat post end cap to insert a bolt and then countersinking the head so the small bolt threads just poked through. The bolt was one that came in the pack with the frame and luckily it was the same thread as on the bottom of the EPS power unit. I was then able to add a bit of thread lock and mount the power unit on this screw, and by chance this slid down into the seat tube nicely…. (this mod may also apply to the LOOK 795, but cant be 100% sure)
One thing I don’t like is mess, so rather than having those bands round my stem to hold the interface on, I have just stuck the interface onto the underside of the stem with strong double sided tape (the thin foam type that is used to hold car number plates on)…. It seems to be holding after a couple of rides.….
Also for a cleaner look, I ran the interface to power unit cable, through the same hole as the brake cable, to save having the separate wire going down through the RD hole. However there is no way through from the top tube to the seat tube, so it has to be routed via the hole in the top tube, down the headtube \ down tube then up the seat tube. I then got some carbon effect patches to cover up the down tube holes, which I prefer as an alternative to the metal blanking plates.
Included in the LOOK pack were two small cable guides that could be used to run the RD cable round the inside bottom of the BB shell, I thought it should have gone outside and over the top of the BB shell, but this wasn’t to be, so the guides were used. I also put a small bit of duct tape on just to be sure, but I don’t think this was really needed…
The RD cable was only just long enough to be able to hide the connector in the frame.
All in, the fitting was fairly straightforward. I started with guiding mechanical gear cables through the whole frame to see how the wires would run. I then ran the interface cable first, followed by the RD and finally the FD (the shifter cables just connect straight to the interface, so no routing needed).
One slight issue is that the cables were not long enough to have the power unit out of the seat tube while fitting. So I had to make sure all the cables were routed correctly before plugging everything in and then setting everything up….
Test ride with no vibrations at all, better than with mechanical where the gear and brake cables used to chatter over certain terrain…. Shifting is spot on as expected…
Weight of the full bike before with SR shifters, SR RD and Record FD was 6.241kg. Weight now with EPS SR shifters, Record RD and Record FD is 6.38kg so only an addition of 140g. I was expecting more like 200g. I am actually amazed it is such a small difference…..
I hope this helps someone else out as I searched the net for info on ‘Fitting EPS v3 to a LOOK 695) and found nothing. Any questions feel free to PM me…
Cheers,
Lig.
Last edited by Lig on Tue Sep 20, 2016 8:10 pm, edited 5 times in total.
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Congrats! Can't get better than that!
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- Location: Northamptonshire UK
This is a frame that can definitely get away with being huge! Such a good build and a great insight into fitting EPS. Sounds like it was worth the effort though. Enjoy the ride
Awesome bike and build!
My 2016 Evo Hi-Mod
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=141400
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=141400
Thanks for all the compliments guys!
I am liking the EPS, but I dont know if its worth the extra £££???!!!
Cheers,
Lig.
I am liking the EPS, but I dont know if its worth the extra £££???!!!
Cheers,
Lig.
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Go for something modern...go for Etap.
Gesendet von iPhone mit Tapatalk
Gesendet von iPhone mit Tapatalk
- thencameyou
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lovely looking Look (forgive the pun). Light and clean, and it would fit me too!
nice build and good weight
My 4,93 kg Supersix Evo HM: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=137647&start=30
My 6,22 kg Cannondale R500 1996: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=134364
My 6,22 kg Cannondale R500 1996: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=134364
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Great attention to detail and a clever solution to the V3 installation. Well done!
The LOOK is looking even more stellar!
On my Di2, the cable routing under the BB came loose on week 2 of riding (that was 6,000km ago now) so make sure everthing is snug.
What was your experience removing and installing the cranks? I heard they were rather tricky.
Awesome bike Chris
On my Di2, the cable routing under the BB came loose on week 2 of riding (that was 6,000km ago now) so make sure everthing is snug.
What was your experience removing and installing the cranks? I heard they were rather tricky.
Awesome bike Chris
Hey Rixster.....
Thanks for the tip, I will check out the cable guides, but they did go on tight enough?!
Removing the cranks is dead easy... I watched the LOOK video a couple of times and then did it. Refitting is just as easy, you just need to take your time feeding the crank arm through the BB shell both ways, in order not to catch it...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jlgoGUU4PP0
Cheers,
Lig.
Thanks for the tip, I will check out the cable guides, but they did go on tight enough?!
Removing the cranks is dead easy... I watched the LOOK video a couple of times and then did it. Refitting is just as easy, you just need to take your time feeding the crank arm through the BB shell both ways, in order not to catch it...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jlgoGUU4PP0
Cheers,
Lig.
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com