Chain ridiculously noisy. 3000 KM's

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Calnago
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by Calnago

As an example, Campy recommends replacing the chain when the distance between a number of links is 132.60mm. I used to use calipers to measure it exactly but then tried a checker to see how the 0.50 wear indicator corresponds to their recommendation since it's much easier to use that for a quick check than pull out the calipers every time. 132.60mm actually corresponds to less wear than the 50% wear indicator. So, if you can get the 50% wear indicator in there it is past time to change the chain, regardless of brand. And for me and my riding, that time comes well before 3000km. Just change it. I can certainly notice a degradation in shifting performance by the time a chain has reached the 50% wear indicator. And if you've let it go till it's between 0.75-1.0 on the wear indicator you will probably be wise to replace the cassette at that point as well, even if it's only been one chain on there the whole time.
From my experience I get two chains per one cassette. On the third chain a new cassette goes on with it. I have tried putting a new third chain on when testing how many I could go before having to change the cassette, but as soon as I did the chain would skip. So, two chains to one cassette has been my rule of thumb for a long time, using campy chains and campy cassettes.
Last edited by Calnago on Sun Sep 18, 2016 4:25 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

Shrike
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Joined: Fri Jun 03, 2016 5:08 pm

by Shrike

Cheers, will just swap it out and use the .5% as a guide for all chains from now on :D

Now back to my shoestring to remove the master link. Was too cheap to buy the £4 tool to do it :P

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Calnago
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by Calnago

Good plan
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

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pdlpsher1
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by pdlpsher1

When your new chain arrives, lay down the new chain by the old chain on a table. Look at the difference between the two. You'll see a big difference in length between the two.
Last edited by pdlpsher1 on Mon Sep 19, 2016 5:40 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Rick
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by Rick

sugarkane wrote:3000 kms with a shimano or campag chain is bin time in my books ( and they make the best 11s chains on the market IMO ) my 2 cents if you don't want a noisy drive train stay away from the KMC chains..

I leave mine on a bit longer, and am using 10 speed, but i agree that Shimano is better and KMC seem to get noisy fast. I have speculated it is the quick-link, which never wears at quite the same rate as the rest of the chain. Shimano wouldn't have stuck with the press pin this long if other schemes were as good or better.
Sometimes you have to recognize that Shimano does things for good reasons (like ignoring BB30 :) )

PrimO
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by PrimO

I use KMC chains on my 10spd bikes (two of them) and Shimano on my 11spd 6800 as I only got 2000kms approx. before the chain was showing stretch and was slightly noisy. Have 2500km on the current 6800 chain and no sign of stretch and its still quiet and smooth.

allenpg
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Joined: Tue May 20, 2008 5:34 am

by allenpg

I'll also say go with the Ultegra 6800 chains. I regularly clean and lube mine. You can usually find them $20-$25 on sale here in the states. Way cheaper to replace on a regular basis compared to Dura Ace rings!

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BRM
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by BRM

When you can hear your drivetrain, you simply are not going fast enough . . . . :twisted:

icenutter
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Location: Newcastle, UK

by icenutter

It never makes sense to me to skimp on chains. Compared to the cassette and chainrings they are peanuts. If in doubt replace.

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