Rotor Qrings

[Timmy269]

I have bought a Rotor 3d+ mas spider and 53A/39 blades.

It is the first time I am going to ride with Qrings.

What is the best position for me to place the rings on the crank?

[Frankie - B]

Taken from a google search for rotor qrings manual:

For your initial use we suggest that you use the #3 regulation hole for both the inner and outer Q-Ring. After becoming adapted to Q-Rings you can change the regulation points to customize the Q-Rings to your specific cycling needs and habits including but not limited to; body geometry, bike geometry, strength, seating position and terrain. After riding in the #3 regulation position for about 400 miles we encourage you to try different regulation positions to optimize your performance and comfort.

[rma]

#3

[Timmy269]

Thanks for the information.

On the 53 ring there are 2 little pins sticking out to the outside. What is that for?

Greeting

[Frankie - B]

That is probably for preventing your chain to fall between the crank and the chain ring and getting stuck.

[1415chris]

As you can, choosing different position, rotate the ring by180 degrees you get two pins. And the reason of having a pin explained Frankie - B above.
In QXL they use only one threaded pin which you screw into the one of the holes in the big ring. Very easy to brake the hole's thread, I finished with using loctite.

[Timmy269]

I have installed my rotor Qrings but when I ride on my 39 and in the back on my 13 (3th ring) I hear the chain rubbing against the 53 ring. Is this normal?

[BONJUNGU]

Q-Ring is oval style. It`s my power make efficient.

[NiFTY]

Timmy I have that on a set of compacts Q Rings (52/36) which have more tooth overlap due to a larger gap. On my two other bikes with Q rings (53/39 both with specialized and hollowgram cranks) i had no rub. I would ensure that you have both setup in the same OCP position and that the crank in correctly installed as a crank mounted too far inboard will increase the chance of chainrub. The other thing it may be related to is a really short chainstay length - the shorter the distance between crank and cassette the higher the chance of rub.

Last two things - on most occasions you should be able to avoid 39x13, as that gear will be covered by switching to your big ring and that ratio will have fewer drivetrain losses if achieved in the big ring. What I did for the rub on my compact rings was to get some small chainring spacers (i think 0.4mm) and space my big ring out. There was no FD issues with this adjustment and i never had issues with the chain dropping between both rings.

In terms of OCP position, for road bikes you should start in OCP3, but if it is a TT bike they recommend starting in OCP4. (This is what i run on my TT bike, I run OCP3 on both road bikes)