Saddle advice
Moderator: robbosmans
Hi,
Long time reader, first time poster(?) I am hoping someone can give me some advice with changing my saddle. Currently I am running a Fizik Arione CX and I have just bought a Tune Komm-Vor Plus. My questions are:
1. How would you allow for the difference in saddle length when measuring from the tip of the saddle to the handle bars?
2. How would you level the Tune saddle. As it has a rather high rear would you still place the level on the back and the nose?
3. What clamping force would you/Tune recommend (4Nm?)?
Thanks
Long time reader, first time poster(?) I am hoping someone can give me some advice with changing my saddle. Currently I am running a Fizik Arione CX and I have just bought a Tune Komm-Vor Plus. My questions are:
1. How would you allow for the difference in saddle length when measuring from the tip of the saddle to the handle bars?
2. How would you level the Tune saddle. As it has a rather high rear would you still place the level on the back and the nose?
3. What clamping force would you/Tune recommend (4Nm?)?
Thanks
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May I offer rather generic advice, The most important point on the saddle is were your "sit bones" make contact. This is the area that needs to be level. On some saddle designs this leaves the nose slightly up for some people. Still, if your saddle is not level at the point you sit on it you may slide forward, increasing preasure on the hands or slide backward. For front to rear saddle positioning I start usung a plumb bob to find the proper oreantation of my knee over my foot, making sure you adjust the saddles front and rear movement with consideration of the contact point of your sit bones. I don't know the manufacturers specs but 5Nw on my older tune saddle has always been fine
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1/ I wouldn't bother with that analysis, I would just go out on a test ride.
2/ I wouldn't bother trying to 'philosphize' about saddle tilt. Get it roughly level with a spirit level and do a test ride.
3/ If you clamp a saddle too loose it just loosens when you ride. And if at 4Nm it loosens, try 5 and then 6.
2/ I wouldn't bother trying to 'philosphize' about saddle tilt. Get it roughly level with a spirit level and do a test ride.
3/ If you clamp a saddle too loose it just loosens when you ride. And if at 4Nm it loosens, try 5 and then 6.
Arione user here. Whenever I have tried a different saddle it feels initially OK then less so over the course of a test ride. My butt is accustomed to my usual saddle and so any others feel unusual. I think I'd need to ride for a week or two to get used to any different one before being able to appraise it properly.....
on 1)
determine the point where the saddle is 7 cms wide
measure from that point to the saddlenose
use the difference of this value between the different saddles to equalise the position relative to the seatpost, the 7 cms point will allways sit in the same place relative to the seatpost (or the handlebar)
determine the point where the saddle is 7 cms wide
measure from that point to the saddlenose
use the difference of this value between the different saddles to equalise the position relative to the seatpost, the 7 cms point will allways sit in the same place relative to the seatpost (or the handlebar)
I would also do a test ride. Ususally, when I mount a new saddle, I will feel the need to move back or forward, and will then reposition the saddle until the feeling goes away. Then I adjust the tilt until I find the best compromise between not sliding forward and pressure.
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As for the level of the saddle: There is a manual on their website, that says that the tip of the saddle needs to be 30mm lower than the back of the saddle. Then the saddle is level.
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