Focus Cayo Disc: Training bike build

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prebsy
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by prebsy

The 2019 season means I get a dedicated race rig for this season, provided by my team. This is exciting for me because I normally have to build one bike to do it all, enable performance in high level criterium racing and be a steadfast training partner.

What is the purpose of this bike: Create the most effective training platform through performance, reliability and versalitity
- disc brakes (shimano hydro duh) apparently not that obvious looks like TRP spyres now
- respectable weight (will start around 8kg and hope to drop down to 7kg over the next few months)
- clearance for larger tires for off season fun (stay mentally fresh)
- mechanical shifting (I've already got enough batteries to charge)
- identical touch points and fit to race bike
- identical power meter to race bike

Deals on Focus bikes is the topic of the hour with them departing US sales it seems like everyone and their grandma is picking up an izalco max. For me a 2017 cayo disc frame checked all the boxes
Last edited by prebsy on Wed Jan 09, 2019 3:58 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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Gearjunkie
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by Gearjunkie

Sounds like a cool project, looking forward to seeing it come together.

But I do wonder if the reason price and source info aren't added is out of respect to our host and sponsor.

I for one am VERY grateful to the one and only *** STARBIKE ***

:)

by Weenie


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prebsy
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by prebsy

Good point I'll suppress that for now but if anyone is interested I can provide that privately.


Anyway frame looks good, forky is porky.

Frame 54cm- 945g with all the fixings (950 claimed)
Fork uncut- 385g (325g claimed)
Headset- 129g
RAT- 113g
Focus seapost- 248gImage

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LeMomo
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by LeMomo

Watching with interest, always interested in seeing what other people are doing with disc builds

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prebsy
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by prebsy

I started with a really fun idea of moving over my mechanical etap and adding juin tech f1s. I think this is actually the lightest 2x11 db build you can do (maybe red22 mechanical).

Unfortunately that build doesn't really suit my needs and I got a great deal on some lightly used R8000 hydro so the build will be ultegra throughout.

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LeDuke
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by LeDuke

If you’re considering going cable operated hydraulic, like Juin Tech or Hope, it would be advisable to see if others have had success before.

Mine (Juin Tech F1) didn’t work on my new frame because the rear housing took too tight of a bend at the rear brake. That, plus the internal routing in the handlebar, just created too much friction.

Ended up going Force hydro instead.


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prebsy
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by prebsy

I will not be doing cable actuated hydro but the weight and price is extremely compelling on paper.

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LeDuke
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by LeDuke

prebsy wrote:I will not be doing cable actuated hydro but the weight and price is extremely compelling on paper.
Yeah. I’m an MTB racer and was building up a super cheap disc road bike. Had my Rival 22 stuff, SRM, etc ready to go, and didn’t want to buy a new set of shifters and brakes. Bought a Chinese open mold frame, and everything was perfect except the rear brake housing exit hole. Just too close to the brake.

I was planning to eventually make the jump to full hydro, but that forced it on me.


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prebsy
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by prebsy

Updates:


ASSIOMAS
Found a great deal on the Assiomas and finally pulled the trigger. 50g penalty at the pedals but benefits in so many other places. We'll see how well it works moving between bikes.


HYDRO vs. SPYRE
I made a stop at my most trusted LBS for some tips on hydro install and to buy the tools I need. I trust this mechanic a lot and he certainly scared me a bit how much technique is involved in getting the hydro setup to work correctly. Also while I was there I felt a set of Spyres that he had set up on a customer's Moots. I've run spyres many times in the past and always used linear housing but good god these things felt amazing. Is it possible I'm not that good at working on my bike???? Yes, yes it is. I got a good deal on the R8020 levers and R8070 brakes so I'm just going to sell them and go for the spyres.


groupset choice
With hydro out of the picture the world is my oyster for groups. I'm hoping to score a deal on some used sram 22 stuff but if not I've got R8000 levers and derailleurs ready to go.

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jbaillie
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Joined: Thu Nov 01, 2012 4:17 pm

by jbaillie

Mechanical disc gets dragged through the mud a bit on these forums, but I'm pretty sure anyone who has bled their hydraulic system has thought for a moment "I wish I'd gone with some decent mechanical ones" too. Plus you can use normal, non-bulbous levers!

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prebsy
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by prebsy

Time to get choppin':
I left about 15mm of extra steerer tube until I dial in the fit. Down to 358g for the fork, which I guess isn't horrible for a disc fork.ImageImage

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prebsy
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by prebsy

WHEELS:

Some alexrims take offs that I got for a song. After 30min with some solvents and brute force I got the dumb stickers off and saved 10g.

They are nothing special but 19mm internal, 6-bolt and 1567g for about $180 to my door.


I'll need to track down some light rim tape (tubed) and rotors, suggestions appreciated.

TIRE CLEARANCE:

I mounted some 32mm Strada LGGs just for kicks. They blew up to 34 wide and 32 tall. The rear fit but too close for comfort. The front was too tall to spin.

30mm of measured width and 28mm of measured height should be safe on this frame.

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ImageImage

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prebsy
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by prebsy

Well I've grown impatient of searching for deals on sram shifters and antsy to get my old bike stripped and sold. Proposed build will be the fastest to get the bike running.

Hacky shimano 1x , stealing a chainring off my gravel bike will be the cheapest and easiest way to get started. It also means if I don't like the 1x I can easily swap back to 2x. Should hit 7.5kg right out of the gate with lots of room to improve.


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prebsy
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by prebsy

Some small parts arrived today.

TRP Spyre C: these are a bit porky but were super cheap new take offs. I still need mounting hardware.

331g


Tesa 51608: about 3 grams per meter. I kind of hate bar tape I just need something to not slip off so this is perfect.

69g


Uno7 120 -17: literally 90seconds with Acetone to remove the awful graphics

121g

ImageImageImageImage

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erik$
Posts: 119
Joined: Sat Nov 15, 2008 5:26 pm
Location: Trondheim, Norway

by erik$

LeDuke wrote:
Tue Jan 08, 2019 5:00 pm
Bought a Chinese open mold frame, and everything was perfect except the rear brake housing exit hole. Just too close to the brake.
Could this be be fixed with a small section of some Jagwire EZ bend housing or one of those stainless tubes from v brakes? I have been lucky up until this point with my bikes but I have been on the lookout for potential future fixes.

by Weenie


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