Downgrading to mechanical discs, what should I go with?

Especially for light weight issues concerning cyclocross / touring bikes & parts.

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ProfessorChaos
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by ProfessorChaos

So I have a Diverge Expert X1. The bike comes with Force CX1 on it, and I want to go 2x, and mechanical brakes. What this boils down to is I am a roadie who prefers the feel of mechanical SRAM 22 hoods. I have Red 22 on my two roadbikes, and I want to make it consistent. I don't much like the shape of the hydro hoods. I just purchased Force 22 mechanical shifters, and now I need brakes.

I was initially planning to do the TRP Hy/Rd, because I heard they worked well and had hydro power with cable actuation. Then I started to hear bad things about this brake set by several people. I know it is heavy too, but I was willing to overlook that if they worked well. So now I am on the hunt for a brake set that will work with mechanical SRAM levers. The TRP Spyres sound interesting as they are dual sided actuation mechanical, where most if not all other mechanical calipers are single sided clamping. The only other one I have considered is the Paul Clampers, because they are Paul, and I've always dug their stuff. Weight isn't as much an issue as I want something bulletproof, and powerful. If it happens to be light that would be rad too. Can you help point me in the right direction my fellow weenies. Thanks in advance.

UpFromOne
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by UpFromOne

Juin Tech R1 (fixed rotor) or X1 (floating rotor). Cable actuated hydraulic that uses mineral oil & common XT pads.

I found them to be better than Spyres, and much lighter after replacing the bolts with ti.

thprice
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by thprice

+1 for Spyres

jeffy
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by jeffy

+1 Juin Tech R1

the same has been released by Yokozuna
http://grit.cx/news/2016/10/new-disc-br ... kozuna-usa

more expensive though. assume it is a rebrand.

Jengaback
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by Jengaback

Have a look at the Hope V-Twin. It essentially converts mechanical to hydraulic right at the handlebars.
http://www.hopetech.com/product/v-twin-brake/

kulivontot
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by kulivontot

I used bb5's and shimano cx77's and hated them and switched to hydro. So not those. Although maybe I just don't like mech disc.

Jowwy
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by Jowwy

Trp spyres

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ProfessorChaos
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by ProfessorChaos

UpFromOne wrote:Juin Tech R1 (fixed rotor) or X1 (floating rotor). Cable actuated hydraulic that uses mineral oil & common XT pads.

I found them to be better than Spyres, and much lighter after replacing the bolts with ti.

Better how? I read a bike radar review on the Juin Tech, and it wasn't exactly praising them. They said they were good but the power wasn't that great.

Nefarious86
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by Nefarious86

I change my vote to the Paul's based solely on their looks haha
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Tomstr
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by Tomstr

TRP Spyre will be good bang for the buck
Ride it like you stole it

UpFromOne
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by UpFromOne

ProfessorChaos wrote:
UpFromOne wrote:Juin Tech R1 (fixed rotor) or X1 (floating rotor). Cable actuated hydraulic that uses mineral oil & common XT pads.
I found them to be better than Spyres, and much lighter after replacing the bolts with ti.

Better how? I read a bike radar review on the Juin Tech, and it wasn't exactly praising them. They said they were good but the power wasn't that great.

I've used Spyres since they came out, and tried about 8 different pad compounds.
The JuinTech, being hydraulic at the piston, simply has more power. Not as much as full hydro, but less lever force needed to get the same braking, in all conditions except freezing (which isn't where I live).
Here's a couple pics of my modded versions.

Black ti bolts, and a smaller arm adjustment.
Image

Without pads, the caliper weighs only 116g.
Image

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ms6073
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by ms6073

UpFromOne wrote:Black ti bolts, and a smaller arm adjustment.
Image

What is the purpose of the smaller arm adjustment? Seems like that would reduce modulation and decrease the already small amount of lever throw? Lack of modulation/lever throw is my only complaint as I have Shimano DA ST-9001 shifters and Shimano SM-RT86 (XT level) 6-bolt Ice-Tech rotors paired with the Juni-Tech R1 calipers and find braking is very good but would really like more modulation/lever throw and had a MTB tech offer advise to remove a minuscule amount of brake fluid as a way to increase modulation.
Michael - The Anaerobic Threshold is neither...

UpFromOne
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by UpFromOne

ms6073 wrote:What is the purpose of the smaller arm adjustment? Seems like that would reduce modulation and decrease the already small amount of lever throw?


All I did was cut about 1/4" off the end of the lever adjustment rod (including the oemknob), and install a smaller knob. I did this not so much to cut a few more grams, but so the oem lever adjustment knob would not contact the seatstay on one of my frames (a Storck). The adjustment rod is too long for its purpose, which is to fine-tune the pad contact point, much the same as the cable adjuster. That's all it really does.

The threaded portion of the adjustment rod does not "decrease the amount of lever throw." While the starting angle of that lever may theoretically have some effect on lever movement vs. cable movement (i.e. setting the lever further back & down on its arc, causes it to come upward as well as forward, more so than if it is set in the forwardmost position), that parameter is negligible.

In other words, the lever arm length does not change, regardless of where you might position its starting point.

I can see your point that max lever movement given the cable pull (=max power) means setting the lever in the forwardmost position on its rod (i.e. making the lever more vertical to start with). More modulation by setting the lever more horizontal. But as I maintain above, that effect is about nil on this design. And the rod is too long for that anyway.


I was simply excited about shedding 20% off each already-light caliper!

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ProfessorChaos
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by ProfessorChaos

Thanks for all the help. I think I'm going to give these Juin Tech brakes a try.

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Miller
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by Miller

ProfessorChaos wrote:I was initially planning to do the TRP Hy/Rd, because I heard they worked well and had hydro power with cable actuation. Then I started to hear bad things about this brake set by several people.


I have a pair of these and they're just fine especially if you swap the stock pads for something better. Mine are three years old now and working well.

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