Moderator: Moderator Team
Tehan do you have guidelines for rear mech/ chain set up to get the very best performance from your rings? Perhaps an example picture of the rear mech in the biggest cog of the cassette to try and judge correct chain length? I have mine set according to Shimano instructions but feel the chain is perhaps a touch too long- having said that shortening it made shifting very difficult. Also the clutch is set to be as firm as possible without hindering shifting an I periodically tighten as the mech loses tension over time (especially when new).
EDIT: I have just seen the information on this on your site. Still if you have a picture of a rear mech set up for an 11-36 cassette with the chain on the 36 that would be really helpful. Big/ big plus 2 links still looks a little long to me on my set up but I am not sure.
Perhaps the rear mech set up, chain length set up, chain brand recommended etc could feature on the website so users know how to get the best from the rings? I am just thinking of tips and tricks you might have that the average customer might not be aware of, such as don't use KMC chains... I never would have even considered that!
EDIT: Great to see this added to the website descriptions
Also, FSA's long, hooked tooth ring is not actually Narrow/ Wide as the initial pictures suggested....
KMC chain issue became apparent to me not that long ago, so i was not publishing anything until i had absolute confidence as to what causes the problem. It's not really easy to find such things as customers set their bike differently, you can't see them and you can't test yourself absolutely everything what's on the market. So finding a common factor from issues is a long process.
To achieve best results you have to follow what i have already placed on my website.
That is: medium or short clutch mech. correct chain length and brand new chain to start with new chainring.
PLEASE do not use any shorter chain that what i advise on my web as you will damage your rear mech. This is especially true when using full sus bike. As in such situation your chain gets actually shorter with most frame constructions when travel goes into the shock. So if you do a shorter chain then you will simply break your mech out from the frame.
In real life i have found that customers who use chain with extra 4 links and no clutch mech have also good success. So my advise is to try to get close to my guidelines, but not to stress about too much. If it will not work with your application well enough then simply contact me and we will try to solve it. This is the easiest option as there is countless combinations of bike stuff and each customer has its own take on the bike. So if it does not work in such and such configuration just get in contact:)
hope that puts more light.
To make a point to that photo. This was not the first race this customer did in such conditions. This chainring has been used for at least 4 months in racing and training conditions.
Is there any chance an 80mm bcd ring will be made in the future for the same reasons as a 64mm bcd - better chain line, smaller tooth counts eg: a 28 tooth instead of a 36 tooth minimum on a 120mm bcd?
It seems like there would be a few people interested, mostly those using XX or RaceFace cranks that don't have a removable spider. There are a few 120mm bcd bash rings around so some people are definitely using the inner ring only.
Bike was equipped with 38T shimano xx1 style chainring, older version of X-0 rear mech with short cage (non clutch) and a bit too long chain. I only used bottom half of the cassette to create more slack on the chain, to show that even this is not enough to drop the chain.
Watch in full HD!
I was obviously quite stunned by this superb marketing, as I was on the verge of ordering one.
So, could anyone give me any indication how long they will last? (The Blackspire only lasted for 40 hours..)
I have testers who already done over a season and they still run them with absolutely no issues. You can use such chainring as long as you won't be able to put a new chain on.
I have customers already with over 4000km on them in terrain. They will keep their retention capabilities till end of the life of product. If you buy and prove me that they don't - i will give you a discount for next. But this is only valid with used chain. As it is normal that after 3rd or forth chain change, chainring will not accept new chain anymore - same as cassette. So speaking short, you will have to change cassette and chain before chinring will loose it's holding capabilities.
I am speaking only about my chainrings as i have spent a lot of time to nail the technology. As you can see from example from Blackspire it is not easy and not every company have done that right.
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