I recall these rims being very difficult to mount Michelin ProRace 3's the last time around, so for this season I thought I'd give Vittoria Open Evo CX a try.
No luck! I'm finding them just as difficult to install. I can't do it with bare hands alone. I've tried the soapy water trick and the warming of tire with a blow-dryer trick, and end up having to use a tire lever to get the last bit of bead over the rim, followed by a pinch flat! 3 pinch flats later, I'm all ears and hoping to hear your tricks!
BTW, what would happen out on the road with a flat? Would I get pinch flats on my spare tube as well? It almost makes me want to go back to tubbies!
Thanks in advance!
Here are a couple of links on basic mooting techniques that might be helpful:
http://velonews.competitor.com/2010/01/ ... out_103005
You need to improve your tools and technique
Start by using one flat and robust tyre lever. If you're using those nasty blue Park tool ones, throw them away. They are OK for MTBs but no good for road tyres as they're too thick and not that strong. I prefer Pedros Milk levers which I got free with a magazine many moons ago. They're about 25mm wide and 3mm thick, flat and made from indestructible milk carton material. There are some pics on the net, the newer Pedros yellow ones are similar, but can be broken.
I'd recommend a rubbing talc on the inner tube before installing, plus maybe some on the inside of the tyre so that it slides over the rim. Then add just enough air to round out the tyre, then ensuring the tube is fully seated inside the rim. All the way round. Then you can lever the tyre bead to your heart's content and the tube can't be popped as it's not trapped by the tyre. This solves 95% of issues.
If the rim is still super-tight, deflate the tube and try again more carefully.
If still no joy, get the tyre 80% of the way on, then push the installed section of tyre bead inwards to get it into the dip in the rim to free a few mm and repeat.
If this still doesn't work, it's sometimes easier to install the tyre on a moderately easy to install rim, and inflate to 120psi and leave it for a day or two to loosen it a bit. I've never been beaten by any Campag rim so far!
The short answer is that you will be stuffed if you get a puncture on these rims without necessary technique to get them on and off. But it does get easier once the tyre is stretched / worn a bit.
Use very thin rim tape. Stans is great because it is narrow and thin but does the trick.
Mount one side of the tyre fully and makes sure it sits down in the middle of the inside of the rim channel rather than under the bead where it will eventually be seated. This will make mounting the other side of the tyre easier.
BTW: mounting tyres on the Neutron is not that hard (I have a pair)... compared to the (old) Shamal.
When I run into those problems I usually mount the tyres on one of my "easier" rims, e.g., Zonda, fill up the tubes, and let them sit for a while. That seems to help.
This way I can I can almost mount it without tool and I have by no means superman powers in my thumbs, the technique is a little bit when you mount a tubular by using your weight to stretch the tire like this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U5UVdBGf ... re=related" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; around 3:45
But after a month pre-stretching the tire at 125psi on another rim, and deployed in use 10 months it was still a bit difficult with strong gloves after I took a ride home. I decided I do NOT want to be in that situation on the road . I decided to ride with a slightly looser fitting tire that is easy to change especially when I don't have leather gloves and the energy.
by the way Zipp recently released a rim tape that is white. This is easy to install and thin, and I am slowly converting my stubborn wheelsets to this tape. They are not too expensive either.
Got to grips with fitting tight tyres after a horrid roadside experience (with PR3s!) involving multiple pinch flats and a snapped lever. Since then, I've never had a problem!
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