i'm wondering when riding, would that type of compression on the rod of the fork be bad? i noticed it when i did my last climb coming down, it felt like the bike was loose in the front. then i check the headset and found this play.
when i got the frame from trisports, it came with the ritchey WCS headset, but didn't include the crown. so my LBS found a chris king one that will fit and used it on the fork. visually it seems like a perfect fit, but i'm wondering could it be that it's not flush 100% and only 98% flush that's causing this play?
i know there's some addict owners on here.. so if ya'll can chime in that would be helpful.. thanks!
addictR1 wrote:i had the top cap tighten just enough for the preload
Try tightening it a bit more... There is often a big range between just having a bit of preload and actual binding. I prefer my headset to be closer to the 'binding' end of the spectrum.
As this is also the easiest and quickest thing to change, start there and report back.
@HakeemT: u mean i should tighten the top cap down all the way before tightening the stem? i had even dropped the stem lower and put the spacers on top so it will push the stem down more upon preloading too. the gap between the top cap and the inside fork is 5mm.
so that's why i didn' crank it down too tightly.. since i don't know the proper torque to do so.
Edit: take that with a grain of salt, I'm not saying that you should be bending over backwards trying to torque it, you definitely only want to use as much as is necessary to keep things from moving. If you have a spacer below your stem, crank on the top cap a little a, nd see if you can rotate the spacer. Once it's torqued to the point that the spacer doesn't move, grab the stem and fork and see if you can feel any play. If you can, torque it more, if you cant, tighten down the stemcheck to see that the steering is still okay and you should be good.
addictR1 wrote:@HakeemT: u mean i should tighten the top cap down all the way before tightening the stem? i had even dropped the stem lower and put the spacers on top so it will push the stem down more upon preloading too. the gap between the top cap and the inside fork is 5mm.
Yes, that's what I meant. Whether you run spacers below or on top of the stem shouldn't matter (from a preload perspective that is). Simply tighten it down more than you've currently done (indeed make sure to undo the bolts that fix the stem first, but it appears you know that part - it's funny how many times I've seen people trying to crank down the topcap without undoing the stem bolts first, not understanding why it's not working...). As long as the bearings are not binding, and you will certainly know when that happens when you try and turn the bars, you should be OK. You will also find that a properly greased headset will increase the range of how much preload the headset will take while working effectively.
A bit more torque, or pushing it all the way down before you fit the stem helps.
2011 Scott Addict R1 DA 7900 Matt black
2012 Scott CR1 Pro Ultegra 6700
2015 Specialized SWorks Tarmac Da 9000
2016 Specialized SWorks Tarmac DA 9100
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No more play. And bars still rotate freely.
@mattr: ok, will try that tonight. i'm sure it'll work some how.. it's gotta be.
@oreoboreo: didn't think about bouncing the front wheel like that. will give that a try too.
@justkeepedaling: ok, guess i'll try to torque the topcap down some more and see.
before i had tighten down the compression plug to 5nm and then slip on the stem (untighten), then put another spacer on top of the stem before tighten down the top cap to 7nm to push the stem down more. the finally tighten stem to 5nm.
is there another way to do it so the headset will be less prone to being loose, or perhaps will changing different headset help?
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