I'm thinking about buying a pair of the Osymetric chainrings. I've seen Wiggo, Froome, Brajkovic and others go with the rings.
But i have some questions to "the smart Osymetric guys".
I have a 130mm crankset and that means I can get a 42t chainring as the smallest one!
- I normally ride with 39t in mountians and with my crankset I can only get a 42t. Have anyone ridden with an Osymetric 42t in mountians?
- Instead of buying a compact crankset and get a 38t OSymetric, will a 11-28 cassette equalize the different?
- What do the pro riders like Froome etc. do? compact or 42t chainring?
- And finally: have you ever got any knee/ankle problems by riding on Osymetric chainrings?
make sure you have a chain guard, the chain goes off both outer and inner rings at several shift points........and dont tell me i need the thing adjusted
because i ve had the best mechanics look at it and they all say the same thing, fast but shifting with the osymetrics is a nightmare. best suited for a flat tt course with minimum shifting
Now I'm back on dura ace 52,39s getting ready for Tour of the Gila in New Mexico. Have a buddy on the junior Slipstream Craddock team that spent a week in silver city area and is from the same area I'm from meaning he knows how to compare terrain and he mentioned I should use my 39 instead of the 42 osymetric. Also, have a buddy Jason Reinhardt from Brownsville who is making (with engineers and all) the same chain rings with new specs. i.e. 4mm instead of 2mm chain ring widths for strength and some other stuff plus anodized versions but don't quote me on that. The only reason I bring it up is because he's machining a 40T out of titanium. Yes, he's spoken with the owner of the company in Europe I don't know the details but it's legit. Also, Thomas Craven mentioned 2 months ago that his company/website was going to carry the updated chainrings but looking at his site I don't see anything.
The 42T ring at the front is 38T in the dead spot and 46T in the power phase, but this doesn't mean a great deal as once you get used to the chainrings, it just feels like a 42T round ring. Climbing with osymetrics are worth it, I feel like my pedal stroke is much smoother and more efficient - I always stay seated on climbs and sustain my effort rather than sprint like hell out of the saddle and die towards the top. They really work for me.
I like to keep my cadence up at around 90-100rpm and hate it when I have to drop below 70, so the gearing is important for me.
As for getting used to them then it took me about 20 minutes. It felt really strange at first but the really strange feeling goes away. Then after that you don't quite feel your old self - it doesn't quite feel efficient but at least the really odd sensation where you can 'feel' the odd shape of the rings has gone away. By my second ride I was really getting on with them, third ride I was loving them, and then after that I could never imagine myself going back to round rings.
For a longer climb like Mt Ventoux then I think I might just be able to keep my cadence up at around 80-90rpm in 42x29 for the steeper parts. On a climb like that you can't really grill yourself as you'll find the gear even harder later on.
If you know what sort of speeds you can pedal at for various different gradients I suggest you work out your cadence for that given speed using a gear calculator.
But that doesn't really answer what you're asking... Yes, I like my 38. Coming from a 34 round and a 25 in the back, there is a small difference. I'm probably going to pick up a 27 for races like Gila anyways.
I still ask myself whether I want to keep the rings everyday. But if Wiggens...
On my bike I have Sram Force 2012
- Do you think there will be problems with the FD or is it just how good I am to adjust it?
- On my city-bike i have regular round rings. Will it influence my ride on my road bike when I chance from round to Osymetric almost everyday, or is it just getting used to it?
Whether or not having round rings on your other bike will affect you depends on the person. For someone like me who got used to the Osymetrics in only like 10 minutes, I could probably switch back and forth. If you're not doing any super hard riding on your city-bike, i guess it doesn't matter.
Geoff wrote:I don't think it is. It may depend on your derailleur, though. I have set it up on Di2 and 7900 with no problems. It is a bit more finicky to do, for sure. Once it is set, it seems to be fine. Don't expect it to shift like stock rings, though. O-Symetric have no ramps, etc., like the stock rings. Also, the validation makes it weird. I will say that the Di2 front derailleur would probably make short work of just about anything...
+1. Osymetric and Di2 is just the best combination.
I mean so it shifts good (not perfect, but not bad too), cause i've heard many people talking about the FD and Osymetric. Some say that they have many problems with the FD while others have no problems at all!
As for setup, I would suggest a FD with a steel cage and <1mm clearance, set the limit screws so that when in big-small and small-big the chain just barely taps the FD, you'll see what I mean when you install them. Shifting under full load is not much slower than DA up or down with the thicker rings, the standard "thin" O' ring is horrible.
Whenever i'm in the small ring and 11-13 in the back I throw the chain over about 1 out of 10 times. So I just make sure to shift up in the back 3 gears and shift to the big ring at the same time, which solved the chain throw issue. I can count on one hand the times I dropped it on the inside, but that's more to do with bad limit screw adjustment.
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