Can you please advise if a chain catcher is necessary with a Dura Ace Di2 bike, and if it is, what size (diameter) and brand do you recommend?
Masi Speciale (city bike)
2013 Cannondale EVO Di2 on order
Geoff wrote:If you are racing and do not run a chain catcher, you're crazy. There are lots of choices. On Cannondale, I prefer the Deda Dog Fang, as it makes for a very clean instalation. The K-Edge works very well, too.
For i guy who's about to race. Why is this so necessary? Because if you lose your chain you are doomed and can't finish or probably finish last?
I would do it just for protection, even if you are racing.
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Elrey wrote:For i guy who's about to race. Why is this so necessary? Because if you lose your chain you are doomed and can't finish or probably finish last?
Exactly. A chain-catcher is really cheap insurance.
It isn't about the quality of the shifts or the rings etc., it is the unforseable: the crazy cross-chained double-shifts; the off-camber, washboard turns at stupid speeds; the on-again, off-again 1,200-watt efforts zig-zagging around, throwing the bike from side to side that defines the very essence of the racing experience - open warfare on two wheels.
Don't get me wrong, those kinds of racing incidents are not prevented by a chain-catcher, ask Klaas. Think of how many are averted by a few grams and dollars...
stephen@fibre-lyte wrote:or lighter still....
Or you take a light spoke .You'll need approx half it. And by bending it correctly you will end up with a lighter and cheaper than carbon
catcher of about 2 to 2.5gr.
But hey, the good thing with those catchers is that they are almost not visible
Here's why a chain catcher is useful in races: you're hitting the last little hill near the finish of the Tour of Podunksville and you're absolutely killing yourself to stay in the lead group of five, just ahead of a big chase group. Near the top of the hill you go to shift to the small ring right as you hit a bump. The chain is thrown off to the inside. Yes, you can soft pedal while shifting up to get the chain on the big ring, then shift back to the small ring that you need. But even if you are well practiced at that, and lucky, it'll take 5 seconds. During that time you're not putting down the power. Now when you get in gear you have lost speed and you're 30 meters off the back of the group. You'll be another 10 meters back by the time you get back up to speed.
Since you were just barely hanging on, you are not going to be able to bridge back up. The chase group is on your wheel. Your sure top 5 finish is gone. Bummer dude.
Of course there's a lot of times in races when losing 5 or 10 seconds of pedalling is no big deal. But at those times you're not pedalling hard and shifting fast, so it's easy to make your shifts. It's precisely the times that you need your shifts to come off flawlessly that you're most likely to miss one.
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