I am definitely fascinated with the idea of doing my own tuning and pretty frickn excited about it (I think my seat project really got me started down this road). Sure I can swap some bolts here and there and even pick up some parts of the shelf that are lighter and I probably will do that. But at some point, I'll have to start tuning them as well. So for me, right now it is about swaping out some of the heavier parts for lighter ones and then the tinkering will begin. In the mean time, I plan on reading threads such as this and taking notes on what is possible.
So WallE, weeracerweenie, don't think that these threads are going unnoticed. My skill is lacking but you guys are an inspiration! I once thought it was about replacing parts with lighter ones but I now see that there is so much still left on the table!
don't get me wrong.
But that can limit what you can accomplish. With a lathe/mill
you can go further.
I've included a couple pics of an old school Suntour Supurbe stem
that was modded to 134.3 grams in 1987 or 88.
The first version on a Cinelli 1A back in 85 or 86 worked well for 3/4 yr.
but didn't stand up to the forces on a wind trainer with a locked fork.
The front part of the bar clamp cracked at the thinnest part where the
hole was milled. It had less meat in that area than the Superbe stem.
There is a .689" dia hole milled through the length of the extension,
which took out 51 grams. There is some milled away at the rear clamp
A ti and aluminum bar pinch bolt/nut.
The quill was also shortened. Pic 3 shows a reamer I turned and ground
out of chro-mo, to re-cut the taper in the end of the quill after shortening.
Then the slots were re-milled. The reamer has been used on several quill
stem mods over the years. Quill bolt was shortened and tapped.
And a shorted lighter tapered plug was turned to finish off.
I just threw this into the pot to show what can be done when you have
more tools, that aren't really possible with a dremel.
This particular FD looks like there is a lot of material that can be removed but once you really start playing with it, there really isn't. Perhaps it has a bit to do with the design and a lot to do with my lack of skill and tools.
I barrowed a dremel kit from a buddy as well as a vice. But none of the attachments seemed to work for metal. The only thing that was working was a cutting wheel. Everything else either dulled out or just didn't put a dent in it. In the end, I spent a fair amount of time with my small file kit.
Right now I just feel defeated. The FD is not ruined but I barely put a dent in this damn thing. It looks aweful and there really is no way in hell that I'm going to post up pictures of it just yet as that would just be embarrassing. So by all means give me some more tips on doing this.
I will add, that even though I am somewhat frustrated, I was pretty much absorbed in the whole process and had a good time working on it and if anything learned what doesn't work! Time to go back to the drawing board and look at some other examples of FD tunes on here.
Lastly, I think WW should have a tuning competition. I think a single part should be selected and then members on the board all have to get the same part and work their magic on it with the goal being to see who can come up with the lightest version of it. I think this would show a few different approaches to the process and I'm sure we would see some varying results. It wouldn't have to be an expensive part mind you, maybe a cheaper front derailleur (not saying that because that is what I'm working on...only because they can be purchased used for pretty cheap and there are enough parts to play around with on it). The winner, well...you just get to be the winner but in reality we will all win because we will get to see what can be done to said part.
On a good note, my seat post sanding project came out awesome! Took 10 minutes and all the graphics are gone and since the post already had a matte finish it looks like it came that way!
'Til then, i'll focus on making some shifter clamp bands out of a section of a Thomson seatpost. Already using m6 ti bolts and a 13mm alloy brake nut.
I was and to a degree still am frustrated with the over all weight of it though I have gotten it down to 99g (w/ no bolts on it) but the reality is that I have only shaved about 4-5g from my grinding thus far. I'm sure it doesn't help that I started with an over built fd but it has been fun practice none the less.
On a side note I stripped the clear coat on the bars and levers. I am quite bumbed over all. I was already irritated to be on Centaur levers since the prior owner can't seem to find the V2 records that were originally on the bike. Now when stripping them using the razor blad technique, I found that they are actually wrapped aluminum! How frickn cheesey is that? I basically scraped a little too far and hit aluminum. Then when i tried to drill it out to lighten them up a little bit I broke a bit trying to drill thru it! Just ridiculous!
1spd wrote:On a side note I stripped the clear coat on the bars and levers. I am quite bumbed over all.
It is all good practice and at least you have learnt what not to do. Personally i think the levers still look good despite the spot of Alu. Keep on tuning
1spd wrote:I was already irritated to be on Centaur levers since the prior owner can't seem to find the V2 records that were originally on the bike. Now when stripping them using the razor blad technique, I found that they are actually wrapped aluminum! How frickn cheesey is that? I basically scraped a little too far and hit aluminum. Then when i tried to drill it out to lighten them up a little bit I broke a bit trying to drill thru it! Just ridiculous!
Which generation of Centaur levers are these? I know it's the new hoods but which style of branding on the levers?
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