I will definitely try the Archetype rims, they are just sweet! But actualy the use of them would not be my "first" bike, but my classy old school steel "winter" bike. The reason is that I have a lot of snake bites when commuting in the old city on the actual thin wheels. So I´d like to go for large archetypes with UST conversion kit a ride them tubeless. So my idea is to make a fine "budget" wheelset, but which rides well, because I do a lot of kms on this training bike and I want to have fun!
My choise for the "first" bike would have been Tune Mig-Mags + 24x Cx Rays, laced rear like Corimas, 8 radial non-drive (maybe some more stiff than Cx Rays), 16 double cross drive side, radial on the front.
But actually I am hesitating what lacing choose for the training-commuting bike. I don´t need a weight weenie setup, nor super aero, just fine compromise between the price and quality, stifness + bomb proofness and wieght/aero. Would you have some recommendations for me?
Thanks a lot!
I'm interested in the actual tire width on the Archetype or any other 23mm wide rim. Tire: Conti GP4000s in 23mm and 25mm.
For instance Vittoria corsa evo 23mm on Archetype, actual 25mm.
I'm going to buy conti, but I'm not sure whether 25mm will leave enough tire clearance at the chainstays.
djay001 wrote:someones know what is the max tension of the BHS C472w rim (kinlin xc-279)
Frankly... "max tension" is just whatever you can get away with. 120 kg sounds like a good number, though. All Al rims will eventually crack with enough use, so it's best to not go overboard.
I liked the Shimano rim because for it's depth it always tested well in various wind tunnel tests, and it's proven to be a very durable rim. It's not particularly WW though, at 460 grams for a 24mm deep rim. Besides the roundish shape, it's also wide for a "standard" rim, 20.8mm. The XC-279 has a very similar profile, not quite as round but close, and it's a little deeper at similar weight. Overall impressions:
-very easy build. I typically bring them to about 70-80% tension w/out even looking at trueness or roundness, and they were amazingly round and true already. Finished tension uniformity was within 5% or so. That's as good as the Shimano rims (which are very straight rims, made by Araya).
-spoke holes were rough. I always chamfer the spoke holes directionally anyway, but if you don't and you're using alloy nipples, you may be in for some problems.
-published ERD seems off. I bought these in a bulk deal from some guy in Taiwan. He listed it as 582.4. I got 582.2. Everyone else publishes 584. This may not seem like a big deal, but with radial lacing and 12mm nipples, you probably want to get this right. I measured 3 rims and they were all around 582.2, +/- .2.
-the two I weighed were right at 480 grams. I don't really care enough about 10 grams to weigh each one. Sorry, WW, I just don't think it matters all that much.
Here's a pic of a Cont Attack mounted. An Attack (22mm) was 23.7mm on this rim, and rim itself measured 23.
I built a set of these for myself as well, 20/24 on Dura Ace 7800/7850 hubs, CX-Rays, DT Alloy front/radial, Sapim brass rear/2x both sides, rider weight 135-140lbs. So far I love the wheels. They should be a great good weather training/bad weather racing/crit wheel. Regarding the "better handling and increased comfort" of wider wheels, though? I really think this is due more to folks decreasing tire pressure and the placebo effect more than anything else. I always ran 80-85 psi on the Kinlin 270's, and I have to say I notice no difference with these rims. Still, I like the rims and would definitely recommend them.
SWijland wrote:@arbitrage: to be honest, there are no real advantages to using snowflake or twisted lacing. In theory the twisting of the spoke at the crossing should stiffen up the wheel, just like tying and soldering, but just like tying and soldering, in real life this is hardly noticeable. Why do it then? Because it looks sweeeet IMHO
At the same mass, it should be less stiff.
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