Problem: New Sram Red 2013 brakes setup

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
poppiholla
Posts: 479
Joined: Wed Aug 03, 2011 1:18 pm

by poppiholla

hi,

I was wondering if I am the only person that has some minor problems with the setup of my new Sram Red single pivot brakes. I don't know why but I am not satisfied with the setup. Somehow the brakes won't center the way it should and every time I brake the brakepads are not pushed on the rim at the same moment. Most of the time one brakepad is faster on the rim. After braking the brakepads come back to the original position but one of the brakepads rubs the wheel. I have to turn the brake by hand and center it myself. To avoid this, I leave more space between brakepads and rim, but that leaves me with a lever feel that I don't like. The brake cable lenght is fine but something is not right.
I hope that I you understand what the "problem" is. Can you help me out?

1spd
Posts: 175
Joined: Fri Jun 15, 2012 2:27 pm
Location: Gaithersburg, Maryland

by 1spd

Is the rear nut tight? I don't mean the one that is on the other side of the fork. The one right on the back of the caliper. Typically this one has flat sides on it so you can put a plate wrench on it to center it once you have the brake mounted. I noticed was having the same problem with my record brakes. I loosened up the mounting nut (one going thru the fork) and then noticed that that nut right on the back of the caliper was pretty easy to turn with a wrench (was a little loose). I snugged the nut down against the back of the caliper then tightened back down the mounting nut/bolt, then with a plate wrench centered the brake. Basically, squeeze the lever a few times to see which pad is making contact with the rim first and then use the bolt on the back of the caliper to center it. Basically it will rotate on the mounting bolt and won't scrape your fork or anything. Try that if you haven't done so already. If you have then I am at a bit of a loss.
Cannondale Synapse (alu)...it works

rijndael
Posts: 395
Joined: Tue Sep 20, 2011 12:54 pm
Location: Haines, AK - Temporarily

by rijndael

If your certain that the housing length is correct, and the caliper is properly centered with the center/attaching bolt, you can adjust the small Allen screws on the side of the caliper to change the spring tension.

poppiholla
Posts: 479
Joined: Wed Aug 03, 2011 1:18 pm

by poppiholla

Thanks guys...some good suggestions. I will check the nut and the spring tension.
I think that the nut will do the trick as mentioned by 1spd will do the trick.

1spd
Posts: 175
Joined: Fri Jun 15, 2012 2:27 pm
Location: Gaithersburg, Maryland

by 1spd

Able length is important as well. Totally forgot about that. If too short it will actually pull the brake to one side. Hope it works for you, let us know how it goes.
Cannondale Synapse (alu)...it works

topflightpro
Posts: 815
Joined: Tue Jan 13, 2009 2:35 am

by topflightpro

Also, what type of cables are you using. I found in the past that Yokozuna cables were much too stiff for my Zero Gravity brakes. Once I moved away from Yokozuna, I had no more problems. I have not tried the Yokozunas with my current new Red brakes.

poppiholla
Posts: 479
Joined: Wed Aug 03, 2011 1:18 pm

by poppiholla

I use Gore shift cabels and Dura Ace brake cables

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Frankie - B
Administrator
Posts: 6614
Joined: Mon Jun 02, 2003 8:17 am
Location: Drenthe, Holland

by Frankie - B

You need a 13 wrench to center the brakes, check if the outer cable isn't to long as it pushes the brake off center. and you need to install the brakes with the rivnut and tighten the allen bolt.
'Tape was made to wrap your GF's gifts, NOT hold a freakin tire on.'

poppiholla
Posts: 479
Joined: Wed Aug 03, 2011 1:18 pm

by poppiholla

I think I manage to install the brakes properly. Thanks everybody!

NWSAlpine
Posts: 296
Joined: Fri May 18, 2012 7:11 pm
Location: FL

by NWSAlpine

Cable length is the solution. I use Yokozuna cables with planet X CNC brakes and the cable length has to be spot on.

refthimos
Posts: 104
Joined: Fri May 25, 2012 6:02 pm

by refthimos

topflightpro wrote:Also, what type of cables are you using. I found in the past that Yokozuna cables were much too stiff for my Zero Gravity brakes. Once I moved away from Yokozuna, I had no more problems. I have not tried the Yokozunas with my current new Red brakes.


I use only Yolozuna on my two road bikes and TT bike and have no problem with any of my brakes - standard dual-pivot Red, new Aerolink single pivot Red and Tririg Omega.
EVO Hi-Mod | 9070 Di2 | Rotor 2Inpower | Aeolus TLR 3/5
P5 | 9070 Di2 | Rotor 2Inpower | Aeolus TLR 7
T1 | Power2Max Type S | Rolf Prima FX58/Zipp Super 9 Disc
SuperX Hi-Mod Disc | Sram Red | Power2Max NG

ninjanoir78
Posts: 201
Joined: Sat Jul 19, 2008 8:14 pm

by ninjanoir78

NWSAlpine wrote:Cable length is the solution. I use Yokozuna cables with planet X CNC brakes and the cable length has to be spot on.

Cable length or housing length??
Ninja

ninjanoir78
Posts: 201
Joined: Sat Jul 19, 2008 8:14 pm

by ninjanoir78

I have myself the same problems.
Look the pic when i release the tension with the cable. And the rear is tight and centered.
Image
Ninja

numberSix
Posts: 71
Joined: Sun Sep 23, 2012 1:53 pm

by numberSix

I doubt this is the factory method, but here goes.

It's 70% housing length (too much/too little pushes/pulls on the caliper),
10% using a 13?mm open-end wrench on the pivot nut (to get in the ballpark on center)
20% spring preload (use maximum both sides, then tune one side to get equal contact),

Don't get hung up how the pad position looks when the brakes are open.
It only matters that they touch the rim equally and doesn't flex the rim to the side.

Much like front derailleur setup, trial and error is your friend.

b c-ing u

ninjanoir78
Posts: 201
Joined: Sat Jul 19, 2008 8:14 pm

by ninjanoir78

ok, I will try that
thanks
Ninja

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