So, just got the sweetest deal on barely used Bianchi D2 aluminum TT-bike. Though hating the blue/green colour, i've already planned to re-paint it - in black.
While i'm at it, i thought i might aswell make the cablerouting internal, right? And because it is a alu-frame it'll be no problem, right?
But anyways, what are the does and don't when drilling? When the hole is drilled am i just running the outer cable right through? Or should i use some sort of "mount"?
Also considering where to drill...
Any thought, comments, ideas or anything? All welcome.
I'd be very hesitant to drill holes in one - you'll go a lot slower on a broken frame.
But how old frames are we talking? And which models? This is a 2010 model, so not exactly old.
Thanks anyways, but i'd love to hear other thoughts, and possibly from someone who've tried drilling in thier own frame.
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Drilling a hole in the top tube seems a bit silly as you would have to route the cables around the fork steerer before they can enter into the top and down tubes. If I were to drill holes for cable entry, then I would drill them in the sides of the down tube. That said, you should be fine with the holes you already drilled in the head tube. Just make sure to use full length cable housing (Gore for example), to prevent the cables from grinding into the fork steerer.
As the first poster (i think) mentioned, i can't drill in the head tube because of the steerer... i don't see how full housing could help that.
But yes, my plan aswell was to run full housing to secure smooth shifting and minimal rattling.
So concluding the best place to drill would probably be the downtube?
Bregne wrote:How in the world should i guide the cable from the hole in probably the downtube, to the hole in the BB?
That parts sucks, whether you do custom drilling or buy one that has been done in the factory. I had to route the cables without guides ones on a Kestrel Airfoil frame. I ended up fishing the cable through with some iron wire bent on the tip to mimic a hook. Make sure to 'fish' through something like a thin shoelace or a textile wire first, as these are more flexible than your shift cables. After you have done that, you can tie the shoelace to your shift cable and pull it through.
Another option is to have the cables exit on the down side of the down tube, just before the weld off the bottom bracket and route the cables externally from that point on. Cervelo uses this method for example.
Or go the Specialized? way:
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