The fit on them is unlike anything I've had before, I guess mostly as the carbon shell tends to cradle the whole foot, and once you've got the molding done, and probably given them a few rides to bed in, they are personally unlike anything else I've ever ridden in.
FWIW - I picked up mine from Merlin Cycles for $235 including postage.
closeout for ~$190 but I called and they gave me a decent discount just because
I asked. They feel really good except for some pressure on my pinky toe but
I haven't heat molded them yet, we'll see what happens.
NWSAlpine wrote:canbakay wrote:standard width indeed - do you remember what the insoles weighted?
155 is fine for now as i have heavy overshoes/socks on but if theres a big difference with the standard insoles, i might just keep them for a race day 'lightest configuration' option in the spring. (given they are as comphy)
I don't remember the weight of the stock insoles but they are really light. I would say under 10 grams each. They are a very thin foam. Bont says to use them over other insoles as the point is to mold the carbon tub to your foot shape but I found a little more support on longer rides with my heat molded insoles.
I put them on the scale tonight and the 46.5 wide stock insoles were 30g for the pair.
alui wrote:I'm interested in getting custom vaypors. If after taking a mold of my foot it is found that there is forefoot varus does Bont build that into the sole of the shoe or will I still need shims under the cleat?
why not ask bont?
carbon2329 wrote:What have been people's experiences with the Zero
I'm considering them, would love to hear any personal experiences.
-sizing (conpared to a vaypor, perhaps)...
I love my Zeros. The fit is the exact same as a Vaypor, I ride a 46 in both and they're perfect. The laces Bont provides are way too long. I pitched them after my first ride and ordered some of http://www.shoelacesexpress.com/flatathletic.asp I got 45" neon yellow laces with silver metal tips. They are now the perfect length.
I was initially concerned with having laces and not being able to make on the fly shoe adjustments but once you've worn them a few times you get a feel for just how tight you need to lace them when putting them on. I have no complaints with the shoes after a full year on them.
It could also be that my oven's temperature sensor isn't very accurate and i'm not actually heating the shoes to 170... how pliable is the carbon sole supposed to be when it's been heated up enough? After baking at "170" for 20 minutes the heel cup was only just a tad bit flexible. Not sure if that means I should heat more or what.
- Tinker, Taylor, Tart
- Posts: 1998
- Joined: Sat Nov 29, 2008 8:00 pm
- Location: Sydney, Aus.
Love them, but I'm fed up of them either being too loose so that my foot is comfortable but moves, or too tight so that my foot is uncomfortable but doesn't move!
At the moment I can't really bring myself to order the 44 wide and have the risk of them being wrong again...
I used the Bont Sizing Tool which returned a result of 44.5/Standard one foot and 44.5/Narrow for the other foot.
The foot that measures for a standard width is at the bottom end of the Bont scale - the foot is 99mm wide and Bont's standard width is 98mm-109mm for size 44.5 Euro. Narrow width is anything below 98mm (my other foot is 97mm).
So, the question is should I order narrow or standard?
I currently use Sidi Genius 5 Pro narrow, which fit snugly (but very well). I use a Garneau moldable footbed. Specialized BG footbeds and Sportful footbeds take up too much room in the Sidi shoes.
Follow the instruction re temp and duration... to cover your ass in case of delamination of any other anomoly (not saying they will but ec etc).
I currently run A-ones and MTB Ones.. have been with bont for over 2 ears now from Gen 1...
I have heat formed all to date.. and learned a bit along the way, some of which is now included in Bont's instructions. I have a good relationship with Alex, Steve and CLaire at Bont...
Wear a slightly thicker sock than usual when moulding to give a mm or so's clearnace around the foot... feet swell under load and temp but you will have enither when youheat form so llow for t a little.
If you have some pressure ponts in the sandard form, use a 3mm foam (old insole cut to shapee) to create a spacer for the area of pressure, this will ease out the pressure spot and leave clearance post mould.
Carry out the mould without cleats and put a towell on the floor to stand on.
HEat as per instruvtion, fit and tigten to a reasonable level (enough force to create tension in the shoe, but not so much as to cloase the shoe in more than necessary...
Once done stand on you fore fott on the towel... this will engage the muscles and tendons in the foot in a similar fashion as applying load when pedalling (not identical as its not dynamic... but better than when the foot is under no load...) You now have a foot in s imilar form to that when you are pealing and th eform will give you a better fit when riding....
Mintain the poistion until the shoes have largely cooled.... then sit and keep them on til they are fully cooled...
Then whip them off, remove the shims and socks and put on normal scks and refit... checking for any remaining pressure points.. and redo with addtional shimming on those area's if required....
Then spend some time in them and don't over react to the diference in firmness this will becom second nature ... but you o need to pay attention to area's of pressure excessive looseness etc....
Hope this is helpful...
PS expect the sole rubbers to fall off despite the screws, use contact adhesive to bond and hold in place with the screws... they hang on pretty well after this....
Also check the ratchet scews after the first few uses as these may also have loosened off...
Also Lube the ratchet to help delay corrosion....
All in i enjoyed my Bont's but have recently returned to Sidid Ergo 2's... fo a multitude of issue's largely brought about due to the changes in distribution in Australia, and corresponding errors and delays....
Hope you enjoy yours.....
As an aside, note Bont have relatively little heel lift relative tothe foe foot, and this may impact fit and suitability for certain foot types...
I have been running Bonts (currently Vaypors but I also have a set of Zeros that I'm in the process of moulding for TTs) for racing in the UK and Belgium as a semi-pro for the last 3 seasons. I love them. Stiffest things on the market by far, and certainly one of the best cycling related purchases I've made.
I have to say that although the moulding process relieves most comfort issues that may be inherent from the stock last, I have noticed a couple of issues that are worth noting.
For me, the left shoe fits like a glove. The right one, not so much.
Issues that I've had are,
>that the ratchet would keep popping open when I tried to do it up tight. This, I noticed was because the placement of the ratchet was located on the 'bone' on the outside of my foot. The ladder would enter the ratchet at a shallow angle and not 'freely' grip. I got around this by effectively 'raising' the ratchet from the shoe by using 2x1mm washers between the mount and the ratchet. The ladder is now gripped firmly in the ratchet.
>that the heel cup (right shoe again) seems to have movement. I admit that his must either have to do with my right foot being slightly different shape to the left, or that is a tiny bit smaller (although multiple fittings inc. 1x Steve Hogg method have confirmed that there's nothing out of the ordinary). I have tried standing in the shoes when moulding and applying pressure on the forefoot, as when pedalling. I have also tried holding the heel cup onto my calcaneus (heel) whilst moulding. My (DIY) solution for the moment has been to use something that I found in a local cobblers, to 'grip' my heel more tightly, although it's hardly odeal. It's basically a bit of adhesive backed suede leather with a very thin strip of padding.
Any ideas anyone?
I'm spend a lot of time pedalling at 400w+, heel down, and anything touching my heels is a nightmare!!!
I've contacted the UK rep regarding full custom moulding, but given the expense, I'm inclined to keep working on the moulding. I'm still convinced that the product is top, but if I have to think about anything but racing when I'm racing, it's hardly ideal.
Cheaper than Vaypors, lighter than Vaypors, I believe more aero than the Vaypors. I look at them as cheaper version of Zeros.
My beloved A-One old version without rubber nose piece suffered a crash and I'm looking for replacement. Maybe someone have some used ones willing to sell?
113245 wrote:How pliable/moldable is the carbon sole supposed to become when heat molding? My oven is claiming a 160-170 deg temperature but I dont feel like the shoe is really changing shape at all.
Keep a meat thermometer inside the oven to know the exact temperature - don't trust what your oven tells you.
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