Agreed developing the correct program would be the hard part, no reason why I can't make a model of it on a CAD program, it's then finding the equipment that can produce the result as the machine I have been using is a manual one with electronic axis measurements. To hard to re create by hand. It's Definately a computer job... I'll investigate
As for the 'herolites', Id be interested in a build thread on those. I tried them once, but settled on M2 Racer. Not sure if anything is 'Tunable' with those as their very minimal to begin with...
I'm no expert in how these are built so I need som advice if anyone can what might be the problem. I looked at the difference between the right and the left and the only thing I could see was that the small metal insert between the ti plates was sticking a bit out, it is the same on both sides.
But as I understand this metal piece between the plates cannot be moved then it's not the seller that made a mistake.
Again I don't know if this is the reason to problem
thisisatest wrote:check to make sure your cleat is mounted flat. A shoe curve that doesnt match the cleat plate curve will bend the cleat, it won't sit flush with the top of the pedal, bad things happen. Sometimes the provided "extra shim" needs to be added to the rear inner mounting screw.
I think you are right there is a small gap between the shim and the shoe, I will give it a shot
weeracerweenie wrote:I then lathed up some end caps out of delrin and called the mission complete
The pedals started at 208 grams for a standard straight of the shelf pair. My pair ended up at 118 grams a pair. 90 GRAMS GONE! WOW, i am working on a concept for prototype 2that will drop them under 100 grams a pair, so stay tuned. I also build Aerolite Pedals that are tweaked to my preference, and altered slightly as well if anyone is interested.
Final Pedals DONE
Im about to put them in a box and send them back to Dereksmalls for him to own, along woith some other wee bits i have built him! What do you all think?
I want a box of the pedals
I need to know the specs of the bolts that hold the butterflies in places (2 per pedal, 4 total), and the bolt that holds the spindle with the pedal body (1 per pedal, 2 total). Then i can order these 6 bolts, which will be quite cheap, and save a little few grams.
thanks a lot.
I took the old bow ties and flipped them (inverted them) the theory behind this was because on the mills i have access to, 1) they arent electronically controlled, only manual. and 2) the curve of the bow ties is god damn impossible to perfect. AANNDD because i think i have micro OCD that wont do... plus to make one of the parts took me 2 hours. Screw that.
So i decided to use the old bow ties to make the cleat interface. this way the curve to the bowtie is identical and the cleat can engage un interupted. In the following photos i have detailled the proccess...
For a start i used a grinding wheel to cut out the section where the sticky outy bit in the cleat will engage and disengage from. I have shown in blue where the cut out will be.
Now the cut out vs standard version
Next the old bowtie is cut in half, so it can sit under the Ti bowties that is in the normal position. Also so it can sit in the slot that the Ti bowties sit recessed into. This is mainly cosmetical buit also functional as the now cut bowtie cannot twist out of position when the cleat is disengaged (which was a version 1 prototype failure)
This picture shows you where the cut bowtie sits on the old one, and how slotting the end for the cleat sticky outy bit will sit in there.
Next a small carbon spacer is cut (4.5mm) to seperate the two sides of the pedals, at the same time the existing threads in the cut bowties are removed if you want to, (i didnt) Note, this carbon tube is to big (diametre) but its the smallest i had in the bike spares shelf. I will fix this later in the week.
And finally we rebuild the pedal, its a bit fiddly but not to hard, tighten the torx bolts and mount them back up. Here is a picture of the pedal fitted to my Old Single Speed (sorry about the mud ) and my old road shoes engaged into the pedal.
Early riding (down the street and back) has seen a massive improvement in engagement and disengagement, it feels snappier and more like the orignals. i plan a decent proper ride this week but with work (It was easier to train when i was at school) its proving un likely. Test review to come. Ill also weigh them too, hopefully <110 grams a pair!
Anyone got some questions or comments or design improvements for me? Im always open to being helped!
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