I plan on switching from a Flite saddle to an SLR. They are ~12mm different in height.
To account for the difference I plan on cutting a 12mm piece from the seat tube waste stock and simply placing it on top of the seat tube, acting in effect as a shim or spacer, then fitting the seat tube cap over top and be done with it.
Alternately I could simply move the cap up 12mm and clamp it in place, an approach that could result in slippage.
Anyone see any problem with the first solution? If that's the case, please let me know.
I'm going to assume it's the Deda, in which case they use a circular clamp IIRC? The minimum insertion is generally 50mm. In terms of using the offcut, go for it. The only issue I can think of is if the offcut being clamped as opposed to the seat mast, but this is unlikely since the lower portion is the only part doing any clamping on most mast heads anyway.
You can always buy a longer cap, like the KCNC Majestic. This will give you more adjustment in the future.
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FWIW my Giant came with a vast selection of alloy spacers.
wheelsONfire wrote: When we ride disc brakes the whole deal of braking is just like a leaving a fart. It happens and then it's over. Nothing planned and nothing to get nervous for.
To BobbyOCR's point: yes, it's a Deda with the teardrop shaped ISP. The single 4mm fixing bolt on the cap is 3 cm beneath the top of the cap as illustrated in the attachment.
- isp.jpg (8.46 KiB) Viewed 3715 times
BTW, generally expander type ISPs require spacers while external clamp types do not.
That said, if you do see slippage, adding a spacer definitely won't hurt you.
Take it from someone who spent way too much time pondering over ISP design.
Wilier cento1 uses a thick aluminum slug that fits into the top of the seat tube. That's probably needed for sufficient clamping force when the head is not mounted flush. It would at least be convenient to be able to do that until you're sure where you want the saddle. Otherwise, you could spend a week cutting ever-so-slightly thinner spacers.
I'd attribute the difference to the additional 2mm vertically the 7x9 rails provide combined with the additional padding the 2nd gen SLR has compared to the original which is hard as a rock.
Also, I set the cap clamp bolt somewhere between finger tight and 2nm.
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At first I thought it was a result of the relatively recent appearance of ISP however the same consideration comes into play regardless of the seatpost type.
This could be viewed as an ISP shortcoming but in practice it’s about the same as changing stem height with threadless stems.
Subjective aesthetics aside on balance I'd have to give it to ISP as there're no clamping forces, slippage, or yaw to contend with.
I also have a Scuro RS, To adjust I would use the offcuts from the seatpost if you have them and make shims.
I use a spesh Toupe and sick to death of the sagging issues. I really like the shape and cutout when the saddles are new. Fortunately the stack of the Toupe is very low and any saddle I pick will require cutting of the mast. I need to find a new suitable saddle before my fit in months time ideally!!
Valbrona wrote:You would think saddle manufacturers would all be clever enough to supply online drawings of their saddles so as to make buying one in these ISP scenarios a little bit easier. No such luck.
Selle Italia do. Under "Utility" on the product page there's "technical drawing".
I agree with xcnick. Use the offcuts. You could form a spacer from a piece of rubber. I use nylon washers but it's easier for me as my ISP is round.
Also use carbon paste. It'll mean you don't have to torque the clamp as much.
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