thisisatest wrote:It should require redishing. Not a lot, as DT and others have "cheated" and gone with 131mm axle spacing, but I believe it has to move over about 0.4mm.
Are you sure? If they upped the axle from 130 to 131, I don't know why they'd need a redish. The hubs were spaced for C11 before, and the S11 is just a hair wider.
Any 10sp Shimano compatible wheel that has a cassette body change, assuming the hub locknut OD remains at 130mm, will need a redish since the longer 11sp cassette body pushes the hub flanges toward the NDS.
You only have 130mm in which to fit everything: endcaps, cones, hub shell and cassette body. If you introduce a new variable in there that is longer than the existing setup, as with this cassette body, something else has to shrink to maintain the 130mm dimension. It's no big deal if you don't mind the rear wheel being 3-4mm out of dish!!
BdaGhisallo wrote:It's no big deal if you don't mind the rear wheel being 3-4mm out of dish!!
I don't get it. If this drawing is correct, there would be no need to redish. It looks like it's off~.5mm below, but that is only because they didn't center the 1mm longer axle. If you do, then the dish should be the same with 10 or 11. I suspect some caps are not correct if there is 3-4mm offset. Like I said earlier, DT hubs were previously spaced for C11.
http://www.bikerumor.com/2012/05/01/11- ... breakdown/
You add 1.85mm to the right side,
You subtract 0.85mm from the left side:
Net +1mm overall.
So the right side is sticking out 1.85mm longer than before, but should only stick out 0.5mm longer (due to the 1mm longer overall axle). That leaves 1.35mm extra. Dishing to the right 0.675mm will add that much to the left axle, subtract that from the right axle, everything is centered.
I don't know where I went wrong in my previous post, but this seems correct here.
It's easy. Look at where the hub flanges are in the diagram. The rim in an existing wheel is anchored to those flanges by the spokes. In the 10sp setup, in the lower half of the image, the hub flanges are further over toward the DS of the hub/cassette body combination.
When you look at the 11sp setup in the top of the image, the flanges have shifted a few mm toward the NDS to accomodate the longer 11sp cassette body. The NDS endcap has been shortened to allow the hub shell to shift and still ensure the the overall locknut OD remains at 130mm (for most manufacturers).
Because the rim is anchored by the spokes to the hub flanges, as you move from the lower 10 sp setup to the 11sp setup, the rim will move leftward in the image by the same distance as the hub flanges do. In order for the converted 11sp wheel's rim to be centered between the dropouts, ie between the outer faces of the hub locknuts, the rim must be dished to bring it back closer to the DS locknut. If you didn't do this, the rim wouldn't run in line with the front wheel and would be a few mm left of the centerline of the bike.
Now DT have helped a little by making the outer locknut dimension on the 11sp setup 131mm, but the rim will still need to be re-dished.
BdaGhisallo wrote:When you look at the 11sp setup in the top of the image, the flanges have shifted a few mm toward the NDS to accomodate the longer 11sp cassette body.
It isn't "a few mm"... it's 0.5mm. And that is only because they didn't center the axle. When you do, the difference is zero.
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