I'm looking at swapping from my P3c to a TM01. I've sat out enough generations of TT bike and now feel there is a genuine benefit to be had from upgrading.
I plan to use Di2, initially 10sp but 11sp in the near future.
Wheels will be H3c & 808 front and 900 disc or maybe Lightweight disc in the future.
Bars are undecided, I currently have Missile Pro evo but after wiring them a few times with the Di2 harness I've never felt more hatred towards a mechanical object in my life... I have been looking at USE's new R1 but, again, not sure yet.
Probably the biggest question I have, does anyone have experience using a Dura Ace SRM & Osymetric chainrings on this frame?
Thank you in advance for any help guys
Make sure you pay close attention to the sizing since he's a tall guy and the drop is insane. Fortunately, the drop/reach is somewhat adjustable. But, close attention is needed. BMC's sizing choices can be a limiting factor for some people.
He's running an FSA neo-pro and 54t/42t Q-Rings with no issues. It looks the absolute business. I like the look of the TT01 better, but the TM01 looks faster.
He's running USE Tula bars with Di2. So I can say that setup works.
Visiting South West Australia? Visit Crank n' Cycles!
To be honest, you're not really gaining muhc of an advantage over your P3 by going to the TM. But if you are sure it is the bike for you, so be it.
1) Di2 is essentially a must for this bike. The cable routing near the stem is a nightmare with mechanical shifting. With di2 it is a non-issue, but something to take note of when considering mechanical.
2) Go with the new generation of Di2. You will be wasting your money if you buy current di2 and then later upgrading. They will not be compatible, and so it will be very difficult to get any resale on 7970.
3) Be very cautious about the the fork. Of the 3 frames I've seen in the last 6 months, 2 had cracks in the fork. Luckily BMC replaced it, but still something to be aware of.
4) The missile pro evo bars are very good, but if you want something different, I would suggest something by 3t - most likely the Mistral or Aura. My reasoning is the ease of adjustability and the fact that they are fairly affordable and pretty aero.
5) I would likely push you towards the 808 rather than the h3 if anything. Just be sure to check the clearance of the 808 (firecrest) because it is fairly wide at the brake track.
I currently have Di2, initially I will use what I have and possibly upgrade to 11sp soon after. For me mechanical gears are history.
Could you tell me more about the fork crack issues because that doesn't sound good at all!
Good point about the 808 firecrest rim width, I'll remember to check it.
Are there any other areas of the frame that you've found less than perfect?
Thank you once again for your time and help
Does anyone know how it compares to the P3 for stiffness? I've never found the P3 all that stiff to pedal (out of the saddle) but the front end is too flexible, I think it's the steerer tube but either way I'd like a improvement.
1) BBright can lead to creaking. This is exaggerated when using adapters for certain cranks. Even with proper assembly, it can start to make sounds if it gets wet.
2) The hydraulic cabling can get annoying if you are traveling and something goes wrong. Not every shop will have maguras bleeding kit
3) Hydraulic cabling can lead to problems when traveling due to the fact you cannot disconnect the cable then reconnect it later without some leakage. This can be solved during the build by having some excess cable remain inside the frame.
That said, the P5 is actually pretty nice. I've got to demo a number of high end TT/Tri bikes and I think it is actually one of the better designed models. Although Cervelo's finish is pretty shitty, I'd rather have a solid bike with poor finish then the other way around. The p5 would be my recommendation to anyone looking at a high end frame. The brakes are very nice and a VAST improvement over the P4. My only concern is that someone may get a little too "tight fisted" and damage their wheel if they really pulled hard.
As far as the BMC cracking goes, it tended to happen near the top cap section on the side. It wasn't in the steerer but on the covering - which I don't think has any real structural meaning other than to shield the cabling area. But that said, the cabling on this bike is an absolute mess, and the braking isn't much better.
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