My XC bikes would be 2x10 though to keep the gearing range wide enough for flatter courses.
I've got a singlespeed MTB too, difficult to compare it to geared bikes as it's not intended to be ideal, it always makes climbs almost unbearable, and always spins out on gentle downhills, it's like that for the simplicity of there being nothing to break or go wrong or wear out, and a bit of masochist training. I can't remember the last time I wore out a road drivetrain quick enough to worry about it, or had a ride ending drivetrain mechanical on the road. I get through a rear mech once a month on the moutainbikes!
I can't see 1x10 working on the road, there's no reason to ever stop pedaling, unlike MTB where above arround 36-11 you're either working the terrain for more speed or riding a really dull crap course.
Things I consider are Total weight and gradients.
If you have a consistant gradient, then you pick a gear and sit on it (Pedal)!!!
But if you have a heavier total weight (ride/bike combined) mixed with gradients that change (Hills that get steeper, or less steep) through out the climb then you want as many gears and as close as possible that you can.
So to sum it up on a flat ride fewer gears may suffice,
But on a ride that has many hills with varying gradients through out the climb, mixed with maybe heavier total weight, or less than ideal endurance/ fitness/ strength levels, then I would take as many gears as possible.
In my truck I have up to 72 gears that I can choose from, thats allows loads of 600-700+ tonne loads. Like a bike I dont need to use every single gear throughout my acceleration. But it allows me to choose the most appropriate gear the the given situation. It also with get me a higher top speed/acceleration uphill from a standing start. E.G. If I have only 2 gears on a very steep incline, chances are I wont get out of first, if 2nd gear is to wide, revelent to 1st gear.
But if I have 20 gears, I can go throughout the most appropriate gear for the climb and eventualy get to a gear close to or exceeding the gear ratio that a 2speed choose would have given.
sorry for the long winded response, I sincerely hope it helps.
2013 Giant Defy Composite 2 M, 8.5kg - Wife's
Azzurro Torino 8.55g
Fuji 650 10.8kg
Miele Lupa Triple Tandem 38,89kg
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Close ratio all the way for road and even for off road. Although I do ride single speed MTB's but when they back on gears it will be a 2x10 with a close ratio cassette. I really don't get the 34T and 36T big sprokets on MTB cassette. in the inner ring your ratio will less more than one turn of the cranks to 1 turn of the wheel. That is a silly ratio even for a 29er and it would be quicker to get of and pick the bike up and run/walk. Also riding a bike up a steep hill in that sort of gear ratio is quite difficult every time I have tried it I have had to move to a higher gear.
11-28T 10 speed (or maybe 11-25T) with a 28/40 chain rings is all I would need on a 26" wheeled MTB. In fact I can't imagine a trail that I could actually ride in a 28:36T ratio on a any wheeled bike without stopping. Maybe I am out of touch with MTBing these days. Maybe I am old.
It does not look like you can tune the wifli that much .
Also, you have to remember that mtb cassettes generally span a much larger range. An 11-34 or 11-36 is a common cassette for mtb. Sram even makes a 10-42 for its 1x10 setups.
The SRAM x1 system, in my view, is brilliant. It's totally optimized for a single ring up front, with alternating tooth widths on the pulleys and chainring, and a clutched rear derailleur given the easier job it has only needing to handle rear shifts. I was super-impressed when I saw it in the flesh @ Interbike last week.
While looking at options to upgrade my mt. bike I was looking at 2x10 or 1x11 options to replace the current 3x9. My conclusion there was a 2x10 with a 1.6:1 ratio on the chain rings would be optimal. I also concluded the 1x11 would not work on the hills I ride here.
Out of curiousity, I did some calculations of a 1x11 on my road bike compared to my current 2x10 (50/34 and 12-23). Much to my suprise, it would work great! I could keep the same top gear and my lowest is stepped up by a very small amount. I came up with a 46 up front and a 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 19, 22, 25, 30 cassette out back. That gave me very tight resolution in my critical 19-24mph range where I spend most of my time.
Potential weight savings are significant, especially if a SRAM XX style cassette was available. I have no clue why this is not common.
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elviento wrote:Seems counterintuitive as MTB seems to need much wider gear range than road, yet many MTB'ers are going to 1X10, so what's the deal?
MTB is for stupid kids seeking the latest bike fad.
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