BOR vs. Rotor 3D+ vs. Tune Smart Foot

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
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Posts: 443
Joined: Sun Mar 27, 2011 8:16 pm

by Dammit

So, the time has come to look at the CX bike.

I've had power (an old wired SRM) on my road bike for a year or so now, and wish to train with power over the winter.

In terms of power meter I'd love a new SRM, but I cannot justify the cost of one.

So, after due consideration of the "wandering zero offset" issue that the Power2max suffers from, I've decided that I can live with it.

The Power2max can come with any of the cranks listed in the title of this post, and are covered by a spread of ~£70, so for all intents and purposes are the same price.

I'm tempted by the huge range of BB standards which the BOR/Tune are capable of using, but would the Rotor 3D+ be a better crankset?

I'm considering future resale value in this judgement as well as function.

(If anyone has a compact Hollowgram SRM for sale please let me know!)

Posts: 47
Joined: Sat Mar 26, 2011 4:36 pm

by xsnailx

I do have 2 power2max units and use them more than one year. the zero offset problem is not a gripe for me. i douse one with rotor and second with sram. considering resale value and overall functionality if i were you i would choose rotor. bor is unproven and tune is flexy

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Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2007 9:28 pm

by boots2000

I have been using a rotor 3D+ on my MTB- I find it to be way better than a Cannondale Hollowgram.
With the Cannondale crank and bb I constantly had noises, creaks, and bearing issues. No such issues with 3D+.

Posts: 443
Joined: Sun Mar 27, 2011 8:16 pm

by Dammit

I've got one pair of SiSl's on the road bike, and a set of Si's on the Cross bike.

I would get the P2M unit for the Hollowgrams if such a thing existed, but sadly it doesn't- I really like the Hollowgrams, and have had no issues with either pair.

However, if you say the Rotor 3D+ are better, then that's a strong recommendation for them.

So- the cranks will definitely be the Rotor.

Final question is whether the P2M is the right choice, I'm concerned about it's known issues when doing steady state session such as a 2X20 on the turbo- if you don't freewheel then it cannot auto-zero, so the zero offset drifts considerably.

This is not such a problem when out riding as there will always be moments when you coast briefly, so it can account for the drift.

Having thought about it overnight I am concerned that I am basing a fairly major purchasing decision on cost more than function.

I guess it comes down to being able to buy the P2M today, whereas I'd need to save for a couple of months for the SRM.

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Location: Aarhus, Denmark

by LarsEjaas

I have ridden a set of SRM cranks on Rotor 3d+ CRANKS since april.

Seems just as stiff as my former Dura ace 7800 cranks, and really not much to say than it works really well :-)

As long as you DON't use a frame with BB80 (or similar) press fit BB, The Rotor cranks can be used on both BSA, BB30 and BBright frames. I am on a old style BSA frame, and the special Rotor bearings works really well for this :-)

EDIT:Sorry looks like I was wrong here. Rotor 3D+ should also be compatible with press fit BB80 frames. Press fit bearings are actually listed on Rotor's homepage.

Well, then I guess I would choose the Rotor over BOR: The weight of the Rotor is quite a bit lighter...

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