I did have a cannondale synapse, was very comfortable, on a super six now with quite long head tube.
Scott's race bikes are quite brutal right? A switch to a more comfortable frame in a 56 without going for a full on sportif design might be enough? I looked at the cervelo RS and cannondale synapse and the synapse was the one for me. However the super six, super six evo and caad10 are hard to beat in every way. Test ride them before you buy next.....
Specialized Sworks Roubaix
Giant Defy Advanced SL
Don't just go up a size...if you are looking for a more comfortable ride get a bike with a comfortable geometry. Plenty of race-worthy performance choices.
Cielo by Chris King Cross Racer
If you want additional comfort, you can try latex tube with high end tyres as the cheapest solution.
If that doesn't cut it, you can try Lynskey R230 frame and SMP saddle. The combination gives a good suspension for going over rough bumps.
Installing the largest volume tires your bike could handle can do a lot about frame comfort as well as a bit for frame geo.
the giant defy also works.
an alternative that not many people will know about is the bianchi infinito. I am currently riding one and the geometry is really good for me. the geometry is not your typical 'endurance' bike. the taller headtube (but not too tall) lets me setup however agressive or comfortable I want it to be. the wheelbase is slightly longer, but not too long, so it's a very well-mannered machine on the road and doesn't feel twitchy or slightly 'nervous' like some race bikes do. That being said it doesn't corner like the best criterium machines out there, but once you've got the hang of it you can push it's limits without fear.
so far it's the only bike I know thats been ridden as a protour Classics bike ( some riders of vacansoliel DCM used them in roubaix, but others passed it over as it can only accomodate 25 tyres and 28 seems to be the favored tyre in roubaix)
and in grand tours ( Robbie hunter, 2009 Giro) , so it's certainly a comfortable and race worthy machine at the same time.
Robbie Hunter's fit on the infinito was acheived by slamming his ultra long, stem, so it is an endurance machine that can be made aggressive if you want.
that said the infinito was released in 2010, so it's getting abit long in the tooth. but if you're like me and you don't like to deal with BB30 and all these new BB standards it's worth a look.
the bikes that Im looking at in 56 will be at around 17.4cm head tub lenght, plus
some spacers this time around
socratease wrote:....The first thing I would recommend doing is get a fit. Then, if your bike still isn't playing nice, but you're in a comfortable position, most of the battle is won, and you could get a more laid bike while replicating that position.
I've spent $100 on two fitting sessions that have helped lots of things on my ride, aero, efficiency, and comfort. Best investment I've made in the last 10 years of riding. I'd recommend similar, and they can be a second opinion on all the other stuff you are discussing (geo changes, sizing up, etc.).
Jamis Xenith Pro 16.1lbs 7.31kg
First, It's cheap and easy to simply experiment to see if the taller head tube is a possible solution for you. I ahve nothing against a fit or a new frame, but why not experiment a little first.
I'm assuming you've already flipped the stem up? If not, of course try that !.
Going even further - as a very cheap way to at least experiment with handlebar height - go out and buy a higher rise stem. Yea, you might not like the looks of it, but it will be cheap and will tell you at the very least if the handlebar height is a problem solver for you. Use your judgement what length to get it - the same or different than what you have, maybe try a couple different cheap ones. Cheap stems will work and if you decide to stick with it, you could buy a lightweight, more expensive stem. But even the expensive ones would be a cheap way to at least isolate this factor and see if it works.
I have a friend who for many years has ridden a progression of top end Cannondale frames from the CAAD8 days (now rides a Super Six of some version) He was plagued with back issues the past few years on anything longer than about 20 miles. He bought a higher rise stem (one of those ~+14 degree) and he is absolutely in love with it. Next frame he gets will probably be a high end frame w/ a taller head tube if nothing else than for aesthetic considerations, but for the time being, he gets to use the frame he has. Would he prefer not to have the "look" of that high angle stem? Yes. Would he probably opt for a new tall head tube frrame if cost weren't a factor? Yes. But for $50 he solved his problem without any additional weight and goes as fast or faster than he did before, and definitely enjoys riding more.
Second - and this may or may not be a viable option. If you have only 1 cm of spacers under the stem, if you could get into a new fork at a reasonable cost, most all-carbon fork specs allow 3-4 cm (my past couple have allowed 4) under the stem, or a total steer tube height above the headset bearing to be about 8 cm. This would gain you 2-3 cm right there at the cost of a fork (as opposed to a new frame). You might consider either a name brand, or something like Pedal Force which sells pretty lightweight forks at a decent price. When I had the same issue with a CAAD7 frame a few years back, I found a NOS Reynolds Ouzo Pro and some other quality brands (deda was one) on Ebay for inexpensive. You might check the Felt website because a few weeks ago they were clearing out their old high end forks for very cheap. Pro Bike Kit also usually has Kinesis and other brands of forks for good prices.
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