comfort/fast road bike

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
Post Reply
Posts: 496
Joined: Mon Jul 31, 2006 6:49 pm

by digitalnorbs

hello, I think that Im slowly getting the feeling that my 2005 scott cr1 team issue is a bit too aggressive for me. I think something that has a bit more relaxed geometry will be better for me right now, maybe a higher head tub ect. can you guys throw some options at me. One more question. will going size bigger from my current 54 add comfort? Thanks

by Weenie

Posts: 200
Joined: Tue Jun 28, 2011 10:43 pm

by runningrunningjump

Do any of your buddys have a 56 you could go for a ride on? Chances are you could go up to a 56. I had an aggressive 54 and it almost snapped my spine! Went to a 56 and was much happier. In 5'10, 31 leg.

I did have a cannondale synapse, was very comfortable, on a super six now with quite long head tube.

Scott's race bikes are quite brutal right? A switch to a more comfortable frame in a 56 without going for a full on sportif design might be enough? I looked at the cervelo RS and cannondale synapse and the synapse was the one for me. However the super six, super six evo and caad10 are hard to beat in every way. Test ride them before you buy next.....

User avatar
Posts: 2693
Joined: Fri Feb 11, 2011 3:04 am
Location: Mississippi

by btompkins0112

Trek Domane 6
Specialized Sworks Roubaix
Felt Z1
Giant Defy Advanced SL

Don't just go up a size...if you are looking for a more comfortable ride get a bike with a comfortable geometry. Plenty of race-worthy performance choices.

Posts: 119
Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2006 4:28 am

by teddysaur

I would say try beatnik bike fit calculator first. It works well for me.

If you want additional comfort, you can try latex tube with high end tyres as the cheapest solution.

If that doesn't cut it, you can try Lynskey R230 frame and SMP saddle. The combination gives a good suspension for going over rough bumps.

Posts: 35
Joined: Sat Mar 05, 2011 6:01 am
Location: SF Bay Area

by eflayer

no bragging here, but i have owned 20 bikes over the last 10 years. currently own a custom steel travel bike and a custom steel non travel bike...and a Specialized Roubaix. Prefer the looks of traditional steel, but like the Roubaix more than anything I have ever ridden. Not sure about all the factors that lead to this preference, but this 2009 S-Works Roubaix is just plain comfortable = tall headtube, reasonable angles, slightly longer chainstays, carbon, Zertz, carbon bars, 23 mm wide rims, 25 mm tires inflated to 85psi. It is also 4-5 lbs lighter than my steel with carbon forks so it goes upwards like crazy. Of the 20, the Roubaix wins hands down.

Posts: 169
Joined: Thu Oct 13, 2011 5:25 pm

by socratease

Two different things at play: aggressive fit and aggressive geometry. The first thing I would recommend doing is get a fit. Then, if your bike still isn't playing nice, but you're in a comfortable position, most of the battle is won, and you could get a more laid bike while replicating that position.

Installing the largest volume tires your bike could handle can do a lot about frame comfort as well as a bit for frame geo.

User avatar
Posts: 20
Joined: Fri Feb 04, 2011 5:12 am

by roshea

Since Scott brought out the Addict, the CR1's (since 2009?) have become more comfort-oriented: taller head tubes than the older ones and also (at least according to the marketing people) a smoother ride. That said, I've never found my 2006 CR1 to be harsh or twitchy.

Posts: 593
Joined: Fri Feb 10, 2012 4:27 pm

by davidalone

if the geo doesnt't fit, like most I would recommend the new roubaix. rode one of the old ones for abit and it can only get better.

the giant defy also works.

an alternative that not many people will know about is the bianchi infinito. I am currently riding one and the geometry is really good for me. the geometry is not your typical 'endurance' bike. the taller headtube (but not too tall) lets me setup however agressive or comfortable I want it to be. the wheelbase is slightly longer, but not too long, so it's a very well-mannered machine on the road and doesn't feel twitchy or slightly 'nervous' like some race bikes do. That being said it doesn't corner like the best criterium machines out there, but once you've got the hang of it you can push it's limits without fear.

so far it's the only bike I know thats been ridden as a protour Classics bike ( some riders of vacansoliel DCM used them in roubaix, but others passed it over as it can only accomodate 25 tyres and 28 seems to be the favored tyre in roubaix)
and in grand tours ( Robbie hunter, 2009 Giro) , so it's certainly a comfortable and race worthy machine at the same time.
Robbie Hunter's fit on the infinito was acheived by slamming his ultra long, stem, so it is an endurance machine that can be made aggressive if you want.

that said the infinito was released in 2010, so it's getting abit long in the tooth. but if you're like me and you don't like to deal with BB30 and all these new BB standards it's worth a look.

Posts: 496
Joined: Mon Jul 31, 2006 6:49 pm

by digitalnorbs

thank you all for giving me your opinions, can some one here tell me if they went from 54 to a 56 cervelo r3 and how did the transition worked out for them. thanks

Posts: 496
Joined: Mon Jul 31, 2006 6:49 pm

by digitalnorbs

do you guys think that going from 14cm head tub high to some thing higher, will really add comfort ect. my current set up has just a 1cm of spacers under the stem, the steer tub was cut way low, and now I can any longer ride that position=(

the bikes that Im looking at in 56 will be at around 17.4cm head tub lenght, plus
some spacers this time around

Posts: 143
Joined: Sat Mar 07, 2009 10:04 pm

by kregg

socratease wrote:....The first thing I would recommend doing is get a fit. Then, if your bike still isn't playing nice, but you're in a comfortable position, most of the battle is won, and you could get a more laid bike while replicating that position.


I've spent $100 on two fitting sessions that have helped lots of things on my ride, aero, efficiency, and comfort. Best investment I've made in the last 10 years of riding. I'd recommend similar, and they can be a second opinion on all the other stuff you are discussing (geo changes, sizing up, etc.).
Tarmac SL3 S-Works 13.75lbs 6.24kg
Jamis Xenith Pro 16.1lbs 7.31kg

Posts: 1536
Joined: Mon May 30, 2005 7:13 am


As others have mentioned, get a good fit. Go pay money(hell, you might be able to put it towards the purchase of the bike) and figure out what works for you. I find that raising the handlebars doesn't always make a bike more comfortable. A certain amount of drop is more comfortable for me. I do find that getting enough setback to allow your back/shoulders to relax helps a lot.

Posts: 496
Joined: Mon Jul 31, 2006 6:49 pm

by digitalnorbs

you guys a right, i should get a fit and see if they can put that towards the frame.

Posts: 361
Joined: Sun Mar 23, 2008 7:31 pm

by Camilo

A couple of thoughts.

First, It's cheap and easy to simply experiment to see if the taller head tube is a possible solution for you. I ahve nothing against a fit or a new frame, but why not experiment a little first.

I'm assuming you've already flipped the stem up? If not, of course try that !.

Going even further - as a very cheap way to at least experiment with handlebar height - go out and buy a higher rise stem. Yea, you might not like the looks of it, but it will be cheap and will tell you at the very least if the handlebar height is a problem solver for you. Use your judgement what length to get it - the same or different than what you have, maybe try a couple different cheap ones. Cheap stems will work and if you decide to stick with it, you could buy a lightweight, more expensive stem. But even the expensive ones would be a cheap way to at least isolate this factor and see if it works.

I have a friend who for many years has ridden a progression of top end Cannondale frames from the CAAD8 days (now rides a Super Six of some version) He was plagued with back issues the past few years on anything longer than about 20 miles. He bought a higher rise stem (one of those ~+14 degree) and he is absolutely in love with it. Next frame he gets will probably be a high end frame w/ a taller head tube if nothing else than for aesthetic considerations, but for the time being, he gets to use the frame he has. Would he prefer not to have the "look" of that high angle stem? Yes. Would he probably opt for a new tall head tube frrame if cost weren't a factor? Yes. But for $50 he solved his problem without any additional weight and goes as fast or faster than he did before, and definitely enjoys riding more.

Second - and this may or may not be a viable option. If you have only 1 cm of spacers under the stem, if you could get into a new fork at a reasonable cost, most all-carbon fork specs allow 3-4 cm (my past couple have allowed 4) under the stem, or a total steer tube height above the headset bearing to be about 8 cm. This would gain you 2-3 cm right there at the cost of a fork (as opposed to a new frame). You might consider either a name brand, or something like Pedal Force which sells pretty lightweight forks at a decent price. When I had the same issue with a CAAD7 frame a few years back, I found a NOS Reynolds Ouzo Pro and some other quality brands (deda was one) on Ebay for inexpensive. You might check the Felt website because a few weeks ago they were clearing out their old high end forks for very cheap. Pro Bike Kit also usually has Kinesis and other brands of forks for good prices.

by Weenie

Post Reply
  • Similar Topics
    Last post