So that's my memory......but it's been 3 years already since I sold that gear off for 11 speed (definitely no gear ferrules there at the lever) So to give you something more concrete I checked an archived manual for 10 speed.....while is says 4 gear ferrules included, it also says install the rear cable into the lever with the cable end installed......so maybe my memory is faulty - does anyone else remember the correct method there at the lever body?
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I think the best solution is get another pair of eyes on it. Find a freindly mechanic who will look at it after hours. A second set set of eyes can spot something obvious/or hidden that you can't spot.
If a bike is giving mke jip, I generaly start another job and come back to it with fresh eyes (I work by myself) and solution often jumps out at me and slaps me in the face.
Campy's instructions are infamous for errors that never get fixed, so I'm not sure if this is one of those. Perhaps OP got one of those cablesets that I've never seen ? or perhaps added a ferrule at the shifter.
This is one of those problems that's difficult to diagnose online that I'm sure I could fix if I got my hands on it.
How many drivers does a buggy have?
So let's just say I'm drivin' this buggy...
and if you fix your attitude you can ride along with me.
Also, as others have mentioned you may have put an unnecessary ferrule into your shifter. If so, take care removing it. If the ferrule is metal, putting it in the fridge for a bit can help.
I always prep freshly cut housings with an angle grinder to create a nice flat end to the cut as it's actually very hard to cut housing perfectly with hand cutters, even if it looks fairly clean to the eye. You must also pay great attention to what happens to the liner at the end of the housing - if it gets pinched or folded you must correct it. Seemingly trivial amounts of friction can still overcome rear derailleur springs, or at least slow them down enough that shifting is noisy or laborious.
Whatever your issue is, it sounds like it is creating a large amount of cable friction. I would start with the shifter ferrules.
Newer (ultrashift) ones, the thinner cables dont from what i remember, as newer shifters dont require it.
I'd be inclined to say cassette spacers are mixed up rather than all the other options that i've never had to sort out although they seem to be the culprit on here all the time....
Ten speed uses the ferrules in the ergos and on either end of the loop housing for the rear der (different ferrules for the loop). Before 11 speed, the factory crimped the ferrules on the housing ends that go into the ergos. The newest cable/housing sets (called "Ultra Low Friction") are designed for both 10 and 11, and the ferrules are not attached at the factory. (You can also tell that the ferrules are for the shifter housings (4mm), because they won't fit over the brake housings (which require 5mm ferrules, are not supplied and are only used as needed on the frame stops)).
I don't think anyone has mentioned the loop. Make sure your loop before the rear der is long enough; a tight bend there can cause some problems; I use the full length of loop provided in the package and it always works well.
I would check that the shifter does not have an extra loose ferrule in it. If the previous owner used a loose metal ferrule it can get stuck in the lever, and then you can still install a new cable on top of it and likely have crappy shifting performance. Also like the suggestion of enlarging the chainstay-derailleur cable loop. I find most pre-cut cable sets give a skimpy length of housing for the loop. I usually end up buying 2 cable sets and making a longer loop out of one of the longer pieces from the spare set of cables. I can then use the inners as replacements later, and use the other longer piece for another derailleur loop down the road.
Finally, it is possible that a rebuilt shifter with new springs etc, might also need the index disc to be replaced. I had a hi-mileage Chorus 10spd shifter and when its springs went I took it to my local Campy guru to get them swapped and he also replaced the indexing disc as it was quite worn.
IMHO, the issue is with the derailleur (RD) itself, or the chain, or both.
Downshifting (11 to 23) uses cable tension to pull the RD mechanism up the cogs.
Upshifting (23 to 11) uses the RD's spring to push the mechanism back down the cogs.
If your shifting issue is upshifting, then the RD spring maybe be weakened, or else friction in the RD is greater than the RD spring.
If you put the bike on a stand, then move the RD manually up to the 23T cog, and then disconnect the cable completely, the RD should upshift (move towards the 11T cog) on its own [when you start turning the cranks] using the RD's internal spring. If it doesn't, then the RD has a problem (weak spring and/or friction).
Also a possible fault is the chain itself. If the chain sideplates do not play well with your cassette, you will see this shifting issue. A lot of these problems have been solved with a new chain. I have great results with the KMC X-10 SL's, which I use on all 3 of my Campy gruppo'd bikes.
Just my 2 cents, from experiences I have had. Good luck! Let me know if this helps!
It started out with some minor noise, then shifts over multiple cogs didn't work well anymore (jumping between two gears), now even single shifts sometimes jump two gears.
I've tried the usual adjusting of the cable, but it doesn't help: the shifting is either bad on the high gears or on the low gears.
The derailleur hanger alignment is basically perfect (checked with DAG-2).
I exchanged various parts:
- different rear wheel (with Veloce 10s cassette).
- different rear derailleur (Centaur 10s).
- different chain (Wippermann instead of Campagnolo).
- cable/housing (new set; I didn't tape the cable to the handlebar to avoid any extra friction)
none of the changes fixed the problem.
I'm wondering whether changing the shifter will solve the problem as in your case it didn't help to replace the inner parts.
Bikerjulio- I indeed have a set of cables with ferrules on the end of them. In fact I've gone through three sets of cables all in original packaging bought from bike shops. Two of them had cables with ferrules on them and one set did not.
Two of them are 10S and one is 11S which works fine on 10S if you put the ferrules for your old cableset on the new one wherever they're missing.
The der. cables had their ferrules crimped on on one side (the shifter IIRC) and a loose fitting one on the cable stop end.
But I'm sure that's not your problem here.
Two more things that fit the description of your problem:
1/ The large flat coiled spring in the shifter has been put the wrong way around. The way the shifter looks it is actually counterintuitive to mount it the correct way. Sympton: all works well shifting up but when shifting down the coiled is not sufficiently tensioned and after a few shifts downwards it hangs inbetween cogs.
2/ The cassette spacers of (I think) cog 6 and 7 are in reversed position. Again an easy mistake to make which will make it impossible to perfectly align all shifts. it will either under- or overshift. Overshift is caused by too high cable tension (since you try to get it to shift up correctly) causing hesitant downshift. Undershift will cause chain rattle onthe middle cogs mostly.
Hope this helps,
Is it possible that the new centaur cassettes and chains just don't mate up perfectly with the record 10 speed stuff? Thanks for the suggestions.
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