I will be dropping $2300 give or take $100
I am very undecided as to what to upgrade first. My endstate is a better performing bike with good parts that i can throw on a better frame later.
I was thinking wheels (ala FC 404 Tubs or Enve 3.4s on RJ45s)
Or, groupset (ala Sram Red minus brakes)
Or, full all-out cockpit (ala full ENVE or full ZIPP as in Bars, stem, seatpost, and a saddle)
PS: is also own a beautiful 2001 Cervelo prodigy
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- Location: Wherever there's a mountain beckoning to be climbed
The difference in speed between Lance Armstrong and me is not just due to PEDs and Power Meter.ProudDaddy wrote:I'm guessing most on here will tell you to upgrade the wheels, but I'd recommend getting a Power Meter, and crank based at that. That's if you want to become a faster rider. I ride with plenty of cat 1/2 riders and can tell you it's not the bike that makes one faster.
If you just want to enjoy your bike, be a little more comfortable, have it "feel" a little nicer, spend the money on cockpit and components. You won't get any speed increase, but you just might enjoy your bike a little more.
If you want to buy "free" speed, just be able to slap something on your bike and immediately go faster, spend the money on wheels. Consider 6.7s if your riding is all-around, or go with the 3.4s if you're always in the mountains or very light and concerned with crosswinds (though the 6.7s handle crosswinds better than old-style 45mm rims).
If you're looking for the most bang-for-your-buck AND are willing to train in something of a structured manner and listen to what the power meter tells you (there's nothing wrong if that's not for you - maybe you just want to hop on the bike and ride and you're not a racer, etc), then go with the power meter.
The nice thing about the power meter is that the fitness it will help you achieve will translate to any bike that you ride... aero/non-aero bike/frame... light/heavy bike... road/mountain/TT... you name it.
A recreational cyclist who rides along at 200W or so could, with a power meter and some intelligent training, get to 250W in fairly short order. There simply is no combination of equipment or wheels that can do the same.
P5 | 9070 Di2 | Rotor 2Inpower | Aeolus TLR 7
T1 | Power2Max Type S | Rolf Prima FX58/Zipp Super 9 Disc
SuperX Hi-Mod Disc | Sram Red | Power2Max NG
Elpimpo wrote:I own a Felt Z5 full 105 with full carbon fork rolling on 2005 ksyrium elites
Everything on that bike is fairly low end... ie all the parts suit each other. If you buy some top end parts this will no longer be the case and it will be sort of a mishmash... with a cheapish frame at the center of it all. Do you know what the frame/fork weighs?
The PM probably makes the most sense... that is if you even want and will use a PM. If not, it would be a waste of money.
But, you have to actually use it properly to get any value at all.
I would split the $2300 between a moderate wheel upgrade and groupset parts.
Example: Dura Ace C24 clinchers and whatever is left on upgrade parts for the groupset
jsinclair wrote:Could he not get a set of 3.4's build with a powertap hub? Or would that be too much of a compromise?
Yeah I guess this is doable. I have never really been a fan of Powertaps though. They seem to be quite a bit more finicky than the SRM and the flange spacing isn't ideal either which makes it hard to build them up to be very stiff.
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