Competitive cyclist once gave it a review http://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=4&ved=0CD8QFjAD&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.competitivecyclist.com%2Fwhats-new%2Fthe-curious-case-of-osymetric-chainrings.415.html&ei=13x8T_jrBcqyiQf0kN2eCQ&usg=AFQjCNGORoFVFEanT6qtpTb9EoEJayUtfQ
A paper on comparisons of such chainrings http://www.noncircularchainring.be/pdf/Biomechanical%20study%20chainrings%20-%20release%202.pdf
Fuji SL 1.1 http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=140134&hilit=Fuji
I would assume these would be just the same. See what FD wiggins is using on his setup and a few other riders, might help with that question.
Basically, you just put the FD outer portion about 2mm above the tallest part of the ring. I never did anything else special other than that with QRings.
Quick check, looks like Sutton is running Di2, Wiggins the same. I think there is an adapter required to run with Osymmetric also if I remember correctly.
Qrings doesn't require anything special.
The first impression is that they are very different from the 'Q'-Rings. They have a much more significant 'ovalization' factor than the 'Q'-Ring and are harder to set-up perfectly. They do get there, eventually. I found that they are very sensitive to the derailleur height setting and seem to benefit from a slight toe-in (on Di2, anyway). The other thing I noticed is that the Di2 derraileur really pushes the ring around.
I got them fairly late in the winter and will play just around with them during the season. I'll wait to give them a real try next winter.
I also ran my derailleur toed in slightly and very, very close to the largest part of the ring. It takes a bit to get the angle and the limits dialed properly so it doesn't overshift. I never dropped a chain from big to small, but had some overshifting issues at first.
I too am going to mess with them a bit more next winter. They take significant time to adapt to, 10 days was not enough for me mid-base training.
lee16 wrote:The only thing about these rings is that it will look terrible with my 7900 crank
They do them in silver as well So maybe a 7800 combo would suit.
Might get some myself to try with di2.
Not ball busting but hasn't this all been discussed before there just seems to be a lot of repeat topics lately.
Headfirst we go against the grain
Against the odds, against the grain
We go against the odds, against the grain
Back to shifting quality, the rings are quite thin as standard and can be a bit flexy, the TT ones are 3mm thick and are supremely better IMHO. The chain will only ever shift at the minor axis, so twice per rotation not like modern rings with multiple points, so not so good for road racing. Shifting under load is much more of an issue than with round rings, and chains can be thrown. They are great for the TT type rider/racer, where you mash away at consistent pace and don't try and make large accelerations too often. If you are more aggressive and want fast crisp shifts between chain rings then these will disappoint. Please note cross chaining is also much more of an issue as the chain will rub on the other chainring due to its size, Team SKY space their derailleur cages a little wider to help but that only gives one more gear in my experience. Better to shift properly and not cross chain in the first place!
As a riding experience they are very good for me, but favour a more forward tt/pursuiter type riding style, this is mainly due to the fact that they have fixed orientation in respect to the cranks/pedals unlike q-rings with their multiple positions.( Would be a good idea IMHO)
I prefer round rings on the Road bike still, but would never sell them from my TT bike except to buy a 54/56 version!
Adaptation takes a while to begin with, but now my legs are trained with it i can switch from round to oval and back with only a 20min period of strangeness on the bike. (n.b. I only race TTs, so do a lot of winter turbo training on the TT bike so don't lose the feel.)
and yes they do look fugly on shimano cranks (i'm running 6600 ultegra cranks on them)
If there are any questions about them i'd be happy to answer them if i can!
I was on the verge of purchasing, but rather ride than fiddle dick around with trying to get it all dialed in.
If someone is going to pay $300 for rings, you would expect virtual plug n play.
I might give the q-rings a go instead. At least they look a little better.
@Kwalker mine are the USA versions(which i believe may have been made slightly thinner, hence a bit flexy)
The major issues are to do with braze-on position in my experience, especially with older bikes where the brazeon may need filing to get the derailleur over the 56. Followed by having a large enough cage to take the difference, some(mainly older shimano) just aren't big enough, by ~3mm.
I agree the shifting is not a issue for most people, but i was just giving an honest opinion about the quality, as weightweenies here debate the performance of aftermarket rings in comparison to DA7900, which are much better and more secure. The shifting isn't so much bad or inaccurate as slower especially if shifting under load (bad i know but it happens, especially in racing!) and weight weenies are often more particular about the function of their equipment compared to most.
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