well I want the hood to be flat and almost level, (do not like hood "knobs" pointing at my face, although some people sets it up that way), but my placement puts the lever tip a few mms lower than the bar bottom.
I am using Zipp traditional bend and it is a continous "C" shape. Even so, the band is around the top of the rough texture area.. going down further just doesn't seem usable.
and i hate, hate, hate it when someone rotates the bar up, and lowers the hoods on the bar, in a futile attempt to "level" the transition between the bar and hood. it literally never improves the situation...
Personally I prefer to put one lever in a good position by eye / sitting on the saddle and testing it until I like the position. Then I tighten it fully. Then I roughly put the other lever in a matching position by eye, and angle it correctly. Then I lay a large pipe on top of both levers and wiggle the second lever until the pipe lies exactly parallel with the top of the bars. I have a 45 cm section of large diameter shower rail in the shed expressly for this. Easy peasy.
Lots of guys like to set the bar up with the hoods and the top of the bar making a smooth transition. Most of the bikes in my collection are set-up like that. Does this result in the bar and hoods looking like the set-up thisislatest hates? Probably. It does look a bit strange, but they have to ride 7 hours a day for a living and choose comfort and speed over looks all the time.
Rick wrote:Using the Reach, Drop, and desired projection of the "pointy part" above the horizontal as parameters we can apply these equations:
And once again, as with everything in life, it all boils down to the desired projection of the "pointy part".
It really is that simple.
mrfish wrote:Aligning the lever tips to graze a straight edge on the bottom of the bars is old school. It works ok with medium drop round bars, but doesn't work so well with shallow bars designed so that the top of the lever lies flat with the top of the bars.
+1...as old school as the archaic fitting myth that a bike fits properly when the top of your bars are in the line of sight with your front hub.
There is no right or wrong on this issue...fit your levers where they are comfortable for YOU and enjoy the ride.
im specifically referring to short/shallow bars like 3t ergosum/ergonova, zipp ss and ssr, etc. but works for all bars.
good (bottom of drops parallel to top flat part of hoods):
levers a bit low, bars a bit high:
even this crazy fsa "new ergo" from a few years back fits into the guideline of hoods parallel to the bottom of the drops.
this is my opinion, no matter how right it may be . im sure to catch a lot of grief for this post, but thats fine.
thisisatest wrote:this is my opinion, no matter how right it may be . im sure to catch a lot of grief for this post, but thats fine.
I don't know why you think you'll catch a lot of grief from your post, I think it's good with pics and all. The first example is hideous for sure (look away). And your points on the other two are good as well.
I happen to prefer a classic shaped bar (probably in the minority these days), but after having used classic, then switching to "ergonometric" bars of various shapes when that became the craze, I found that I just like the classic bars best. But there are so many combinations of bars and levers out there now that it's hard to say one way is better than another, although that first example you show is truly hideous.
P.S. But I still think Rick's mathematical representation a few posts back is the best rule to follow, so long as you remember where the "pointy bits" should be pointing.
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