Moderator: Moderator Team
Notice I'm not running tape on the bars. Think I like the marble look of the carbon and the minimalist thing. If my hands are going numb...I'll invest in gloves. Just wish I could squeeze 28c tires on.
This girl has a really HIGH stack. 205mm head tube plus another 25mm of spacers. Think I'll remove the spacers...slam it as someone once said.
Think she'll be the ultimate climber after I get the new brakes put on (TRP 920). They should be here by Wednesday. The calculated weight of 13.986lbs is after adding on the 260g of the brakeset. I'm sure they'll come in heavy and push me over 14lbs
I'm using a Walmart cableset...$5.50 after tax
You make a great point. It's a 130mm stem. Wonder if I got a 130mm stem with 6 degrees rise...slammed?
Zitter wrote:why the spacer tower with that degree stem? why not slam it and get a more appropriate degree stem?
What's the best tool to use in cutting a steerer. I've used a hack saw in the past and it sucks. There a better tool/method?
plus hack saw with carbon specific blade
make sure you tape the steerer tube where you're cutting with electrical tape to prevent fraying
Put some endcaps on your bars. That's just dangerous without them. Run tape- you're saving 30 grams and honestly its not like anyone hasn't seen a 14lb bike before.
Another thing, the nose of your saddle should go up considerably. I know that the BikeRadar article on the saddle says differently, but we've had the designer of the saddle in our shop and state otherwise. The cable thing is another story but if you're going to spend that kind of money on a bike at least make it function properly. Aren't you like 200+ lbs? the whatever grams from a decent chain, tape, and cables is negligible
The cables work fine.
I've never owned a 14lb bike before...not sure I ever seen one in person until now.
Chain function is fine...
Yes this is weight weenies but fit and comfort should always be number 1..
You say you want comfort but you are skipping bar tape, you probably should also try a new saddle if you have to set yours up so extreme to be rideable... I would not want to have my 'long trek bike' to not have any bar tape for my hands.
As was said in another post even if you choose to ride with bartape you really should put some plugs in the ends of your handlebar.
Cut your steerer with a high tpi hacksaw blade, that wil give you the best cut. Masking tape where you are cutting is also a good idea for protection from frays.
One last note, you just put this bike together take a few minutes to clean your drivetrain....
Edit. You should also cut down the extra axle on your QR, it will save you a gram or two as well
your saddle should be flat, if it's not then you've either got your seat too high and pointing it back down to compensate or its not the right saddle for you.
riding without bartape is an accident waiting to happen
Now you mention it...doesn't really match my shoes and purse. I am tempted to cut the steerer and put in a 140mm 6 degree stem. They sale stems like that in lime green?
- Similar Topics
- Last post
My Tarmac Pro SL4
Last post by tarmacdz « Sun Jun 11, 2017 7:09 pm
Posted in Introduce Yourself / Gallery - Please use metric weights.by tarmacdz » Sun Jun 11, 2017 7:09 pm » in Introduce Yourself / Gallery - Please use metric weights.
- 0 Replies
- 865 Views
Last post by tarmacdz
Sun Jun 11, 2017 7:09 pm
- 0 Replies
- 684 Views
Last post by tarmacdz
Sun Jun 11, 2017 6:54 pm
My new Tarmac S-works
Last post by KCookie « Sun May 20, 2018 10:08 amReplies: 7
Posted in Introduce Yourself / Gallery - Please use metric weights.by poppiholla » Thu May 17, 2018 10:27 pm » in Introduce Yourself / Gallery - Please use metric weights.
- 7 Replies
- 669 Views
Last post by KCookie
Sun May 20, 2018 10:08 am
- 20 Replies
- 6761 Views
Last post by morganb
Fri Jan 05, 2018 12:37 pm
- 17 Replies
- 673 Views
Last post by Timmy269
Fri May 18, 2018 6:44 am