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- Powerful Pete
- Posts: 4004
- Joined: Fri Dec 10, 2004 10:22 am
- Location: Lima, Peru and occasionally in the Washington DC area.
Supercommuter: Jamis Renegade...pastatrails.blogspot.com
And you can call me Macktastik Honey Pete Kicks, thank you.
Stolichnaya wrote:Cough, um, er... exhaustive research should have revealed the FRM DP4 Mini V's, which are quite nice and light...
They work very well with road levers.
I tried these a couple years ago. I thought they were no good at all. The worst of all for pad clearance. Worst lever feel of any brake I've ever used. Horrible modulation. They were only good for sheer stopping power.
- Posts: 8609
- Joined: Wed Oct 31, 2007 10:32 pm
- Location: Los Feliz, Los Angeles, California
Just investigating the options, I want to know if the claims from both sides of the argument are true or not.
As many people have said, pad clearance is extremely limited. I found it difficult to achieve a happy medium between clearance and brake lever displacement (I like a relatively short throw).
The pivot bushings cannot be disassembled and cleaned. I have had v-brake pivots seize on me and I didn't want that to happen with $100 brakes that cannot be purchased individually. I prefer a brass bushing that rides directly on the brake boss.
So I returned the CX9s and ordered a pair of Tektro 926AL BMX v-brakes with 80mm arms, and two pairs of Jagwire Sleek Cross pad holders, so I could run road style pads. The 80mm provide a better motion ratio than the CX9s at the expense of the straddle wire being 1 cm closer to the tire. They also have the bushing-on-boss pivot that I prefer. The setup ending up costing not much less than the CX9s since the the Jagwire pad holders are ridiculously expensive-$60 for 4 pad holders and pads.
With Campy 10s Ergopower levers and 23mm wide rims, I have enough brake clearance (~2mm), and plenty of power. I did a very muddy race yesterday and didn't have any problems with mud clearance.
Campy levers are ideal for v-brakes since they have the cable-slackener on the lever, which makes removing the wheel alot easier without the need for a barrel adjuster or deflating the tire. Also if you do need the extra clearance during a race, you can pop those buttons in while riding with your hands on the hoods, and wa-la, instant clearance with just a little more reach.
Not a ton of mud clearance, but they are quite compact. Pads have to be set up a little closer than normal, but not by much. I will get the adjustable Jagwire noodle to help remedy this for wheel changes.
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