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I am having strange front derailleur adjustment issues. Especially in the big ring. It's either the Parlee clamp holding the derailleur out too far or the right crank arm is too close to the frame. I cannot even get to the last index point otherwise the chain will be on my foot.
I feel pretty dang comfortable on it. I'm doing a century on Saturday if weather permits so we'll see how I feel after that, and can do a better ride report after that. I'm still getting used to the shifting coming from shimano but it feels a ton better. Like I mentioned earlier, I am having strange Front derailleur issues but I'll play with it some more and see what I can do.
The acceleration is unreal compared to my 22lbs steel bike. I did not think i'd notice it that much but losing a ton of rotational weight definitely shows. I'm taking it easy until KMC comes out with it's 11 speed chain. I put the chain on with a regular chain tool, it's possible but requires an extreme amount of patience and I'd much rather deal with something else. I did put some sprints in today and it held up, so I'm not worried about it breaking apart. Felt great in the sprint. I need a couple more to really get a feel for it.
The only thing I might want to change on it is get something like a -17° stem and have it a bit shorter to get some more drop. The Zipp Contour SL bars are most comfortable. The wide, flat tops make for a very comfortable forearm resting spot.
No pictures of the complete bike as the weather is pretty crummy. Those will probably wait until I get the soul wheels.
So far bike runs nice, drivetrain is a bit louder than I like but I've read that changing the chain not long after you purchased a new cassette will quite it down. So I'm looking forward to the KMC X11SL chain by the end of the year.
I had a slight problem with my zipp bars hence the temp ritchey bars. Should hopefully have those bars back soon..These HED wheels are heavy, 1841g with tape. I also have a set of Campagnolo Zonda's that at the moment are reserved for roller use.
As pictured the bike weighs 7.48kg. Will lose some once my zipp bars get back, and then later this year I'll buy a nice light wheelset and begin work on getting this thing down to 6.
Oh did i mention that i hate snow? Well if it snows on Christmas Eve and Christmas day i do not mind, any other time of the year I'm no fan.
Personally, I'd rather the valve stems be hidden by the fork and seat stays, but the snow was messing with my head. On the crank note, everyone knows that parallel to the downtube makes for a more pleasing picture. Otherwise the line from the downtube splits up too many ways and you'll lose yourself in the confusion that is caused!
My ideas so far are bolt kits for derailleurs and stem, the btp carbon shifter clamps and chop excess off the seat post. An obvious choice would be to get a Vumaquad, but I don't have that kind of money..at the moment at least. My goal is to be under 15lbs with these wheels. I can get the btp bottle cages, basically 40g right there, but these just work so well.
They look like very deep wheels to be riding for road racing. If you are TTing, get a TT bike. If you are financially constrained, why race on carbon wheels? If you want light, why have clinchers?
If it were me, I would:
1. Sell wheels
2. Get alloy clinchers for training (1700-1800g build or stick some 25 or 27c tyres on the zondas, or get Neutrons if you care about weight for training)
3. Build (or buy complete) 1400g-ish tubbies for race day. (Say, record hubs to ambrosio corsa or velocity escape rims. Comp spokes rear, revolution front, or aerolite/CX-ray if you want to spend a little more)
IMO unless you are a tough-as-hell breakaway rider at a pretty high level of racing, aero benefits of deep section wheels are pretty minimal. Most riders spend 90% of the time sucking wheels in a pack. Most riders ride more crits than anything, in which case light beats aero even more.
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