why not just get a track frame and was insane lighter to start with. plus if you are using this on the road in a major city (chicago, nyc, etc) why go for lighter wheels? the roads here in chicago blow! if i was riding a commuter or crap bike here, i would be rolling on heavy wheels that were bomb proof.
sorry...just curious as to the purpose of this bike. thanks...later.
I built up these wheels just because I wanted to, I thought that the stockers were heavier than there were, but you can deffinately see the quality difference in the wheels and they roll smoother and quieter, and they stop much better too which kind of surprised me.
I dont need a 13 lb bike, just wonder how some of the Langsters I have seen are that much lighter than mine because 3 lbs is a lot of weight, I guess I am not going to get much lighter and still have the strength that I want.
First the frame, this was not built specifically as a weight weenie frame choice, while aluminum, it's not the lightest frame around, as it needs to survive the use and abuse specialized designed it for. That being mostly city rides, and commuting, with the occasional banging it around for locking it up, and falling, etc.
As for the fork. it most likely Specialized's heaviest carbon fork, there is no fancy fork going in the Langster to hit the price point it is selling at. I'd imagine a good 1/3 of a pound to even 1/2 just by putting a decent full carbon fork.
Lastly, a few small notes on your build-
You have one of, if not the heaviest tire for that bike. While a bombproof, and ideal city, they are by no means light.
Also, you still have platform pedals equipped with cages.
Certainly plenty of weight can be dropped there with a clipless system.
And you have a computer! Whie not not too heavy, there is yet another source of weight, you won't generally find on those 13 pound bikes.
With all that said, you could certainly drop some weight, however it might make the bike a bit less practical for your needs. It seems you have a solid ride there, and I'd be pretty happy to ride that around town just as it sits now!
pupuslinger wrote: I do ride it quite a bit, and that is one of the reason I am kind of worried about the super light Easton forks.
No need to be. The Easton stuff is solid. I rode raced Easton EC-90 aeros, and cross race on an Easton EC-90x fork. All still intact!
That being said, I love this bike, it is my favorite road bike to date for sure.
AERO & LIGHT is RIGHT
Cervelo SLC 5960g/13.13 lbs
It can be tough to find lightweight track stuff, and for good reason. I would not go too light on the chain as they take a ton of abuse on a fixed gear bike.
Also a new fork can completely change the ride of the bike, make sure you get something with a similar rake and crown height.
2010 Specialized Tarmac Pro
2008 Custom Columbus XLR8R Frame (Team Branded)
2006 Specialized S-Works E5 Aerotec - Stolen
1995 Pinarello Stelvio (Fixed Gear)
Inspired by BmanX, I just bought a Langster Comp frameset. I plan to build it up slowly to have it ready for the spring.
This is going to be my build list:
Langster Comp Frame
Easton EC90 SLX fork (or maybe the Aerus--it's a lot cheaper)
Syntace F99 stem (25.4)
Easton EC90 Flatbar or MonkeyLite risers
Thomson Masterpiece Seatpost (27.2 x 240, I hope. I might have to get a 330 due to the compact geometry)
Dura-Ace 7710 Cranks with matching bottom bracket (I'd actually like to convert a light road double, but they don't seem to come in 165mm and have outboard bearings)
Salsa 42T 144 bcd chainring
Dura Ace Road Hub (F) and Dura-Ace LF Track Hub (R) laced to Niobium XR-300 rims. (32 spokes)
Tektro cross lever
Cane Creek 200SL front brake
Selle Italia SLR saddle (135g version)
Sundry other things.
This is going to be my first semi-WW build. Suggestions would be greatly appreciated (esp. regarding cranks). Is there another frame I should be looking at? I'm open to selling my Langster Comp and getting a Capo or something else.Does anybody know anything about the Cannondale CAAD5 track frame? There's one on eBay righ tnow, and I want to know if it's significantly lighter than the Langster Comp.
The Langster frame is pretty light and cheap so that is why I went with this frame for my fixed project.
Looking back on the build and the parts that I had used, I could have gone lighter by going with an Easton EC90 SLX fork (which works for me), I should have gone with an Easton EC90 (99g) flatbar set up and my Extralite Ultralevers and used some bartape for grips.
I think the saddle that you have picked will be fine.
If you have the seat post already then by all means go with the Thomson as they are an amazing saddle but if you are going to buy a new post then I would maybe look at the KCNC Ti Pro Lite post as they are very light and do not cost a lot.
It looks like it will be a light build for sure.
I currently have a pair of the Extralite Ultralite levers sitting around as well as a KCNC Ti Pro Lite post that is 27.2 x 350 that you can cut down to size. So if you want them for the build, send me a PM and we can work something out. They are not doing me any good sitting on the work bench.
Please post pictures when you get this built up as I would love to see it.
AERO & LIGHT is RIGHT
Cervelo SLC 5960g/13.13 lbs
pupuslinger wrote:I just picked up a Easont ec90slx fork yesterday, got a good deal on it brand new uncut, putting it on today, the bike should come in around 15.4 or so. I took of the to clips, they were bugging me, still trying to decide on pedals. The specialized seat post i have seems pretty light, it is about 190 grams or so now that I cut it. I got it for 40 bucks and so far I like the way it rides. Gonna take a long ride tomorrow and see how I like the fork. Ill get some pics up after I get her all buttoned up.
Tell me how you like that Easton fork. I'm interested in picking one up, too.
Also, how do you like that White track hubset? Are the advertised weights accurate? If so, that's a pretty light track hubset. I'm deciding between the low-flange Dura Ace and the White Industries.
However, if I go White Industries, I'm going to run an White H2 road hub in the front. Saves about 100 grams, and it's cheaper.
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