Campagnolo Super Record Wireless - Real World Experience

[TheBeautifulOne]

Happened to me when changing chain. Removing and reinserting battery helped for me.

[graeme_f_k]

Has anyone else noticed high spring tension in the rear derailleur's lower pivot?

Mine came with the lower derailleur spring in the highest tension level (I assume this was a mistake at the factory). This was causing a lot of drivetrain resistance -- easily felt on the work stand.
To adjust it, you remove the jockey wheels. Inside the upper jockey wheel hole is a torx15 bolt. That removes the cage, and you get access to the three settings.

Notes:
1.put the derailleur in a middle gear first.
2. If you unscrew the bolt about 80% of the way, you will clear the stop and can rotate the cage to a neutral position.
3. This procedure will be the same for 12s mechanical, but not 12s EPS.

Middle setting is correct.

[graeme_f_k]

Has anyone else noticed high spring tension in the rear derailleur's lower pivot?

Mine came with the lower derailleur spring in the highest tension level (I assume this was a mistake at the factory). This was causing a lot of drivetrain resistance -- easily felt on the work stand.
To adjust it, you remove the jockey wheels. Inside the upper jockey wheel hole is a torx15 bolt. That removes the cage, and you get access to the three settings.

Notes:
1.put the derailleur in a middle gear first.
2. If you unscrew the bolt about 80% of the way, you will clear the stop and can rotate the cage to a neutral position.
3. This procedure will be the same for 12s mechanical, but not 12s EPS.

What are the upsides and downsides of the three settings? Is there a Campagnolo Tech Doc on this? I'm taking my RD apart anyways to put CeramicSpeed wheels on it - so might as well do this if there is a benefit.

The three settings are there because both the spring and the bushing at allows the adjustment of the spring tension are shared across multiple components. The middle setting is generally used as giving correct tension for the anticipated combinations of chainrings and cassette sizing. There's no official tech doc as most people never have cause to change the basic set up of their system. I won't say errors in set up never happen at the factory but one of the checks done in manufacture (and by as in the Service Depts) is the amount of torque that needs to be applied to rotate the jockey cage.

[graeme_f_k]

Even after i rendered flexiblile most of the links the rear derailleur showed me some errors (short red flashes) and the front derailleur wasn't able to swap the chainring.

However, this auto resolved by spinning the chain and gear changes. In your case the stable red light indicates a motor error.

Does the rear derailleur also goes in the red error state if the tension resp. Chain is removed?

Yes it does - no matter what I do (remove chain etc) it remains in this error state (which is a flashing red light). The only thing that stops the flashing red is long hold on mode to enter the blue->green->red cycle. No matter what I select, back to red flashing error state.

The only other thing I've noticed is that in the blue->green->red cycle, the led seems to flicker. Battery/voltage issue?

Without physically seeing it, I can't tell for sure - but you may have got stuck in a logic loop.
One way out of this (if it is the problem) is to wipe the memory on all the components and reset the system as a whole.

Before you do that, though, verify that you have versions 0.0.99 of the rear and front derailleur firmware (at time of writing, the most recent).
Check you have lever firmware 0.0.55 (ditto).

If you have and the problem persists, then try as follows, in this order:
1. Remove the batteries from both derailleurs.
2. Press and hold the mode button on a shifter (doesn't matter which).
3. When you see the blue-red-green cycle start, release the mode button.
4. On blue, short press the mode button.
5. You should see a flashing blue LED. At this point, switch the lever off.
6. Do the same on the second lever.
7. Replace the battery in the FD and press & hold the mode button until you see the blue-red-green cycle start, release the mode button.
8. On blue, short press the mode button.
9. You should see, as with the levers & for the same reason, a flashing blue LED.
10. Remove the battery.
11. Replace the battery in the RD and press & hold the mode button until you see the blue-red-green cycle start, release the mode button.
12. On blue, short press the mode button.
13. You should see a flashing blue followed by a fast flashing yellow.
14. Remove the battery to confirm the deletion of the RD memory.
15. Switch the levers on.
16. Replace the battery in the FD.
17. Replace the battery in the RD.
18. Shake the bicycle to make sure all the inertia switches are tripped.
19. All should now re-pair correctly.

That is the hardest possible reset of the firmware at the existing firmware version.
The components can be returned to the state they were in when shipped but it's exceedingly rare to need to do that.

This is a slightly more elaborate way of doing the job than we usually use - but the switching off / battery removal at each step absolutely ensures that there can be no external interference during the process.

If you are not super familiar with the system or have to try any step a couple of times, so it takes a little longer, it's worth giving the bike a shake from time to time as the inertia switches need to be tripped to allow the operation to take place - that is, the components need to be "switched on".

If you still have a problem after that, please contact your local market SC or drop me an email and either I or the factory will assist further.

[Ol3Tarmac]

So this combination with the final step removing the battery didnt work.

Did you try to manually shift the derailleur through the gears? I have the impression that the error will be reproduced by maybe by a resistance which was initially caused by the stiff chain.

[graeme_f_k]

So this combination with the final step removing the battery didnt work.

Did you try to manually shift the derailleur through the gears? I have the impression that the error will be reproduced by maybe by a resistance which was initially caused by the stiff chain.

Sorry, I don't understand (appreciate could be "lost in translation") ...
What part of wiping the RD memory didn't work?
Did you get to the Blue LED followed by flashing yellow?
Once the battery is out to confirm the flashing yellow, of course you will see nothing on the LED as there is nothing to power it.

When you reconnect, the sequence is levers switch on, FD battery in, RD battery in.
Anything else IME usually leads to failed connection.

[Ol3Tarmac]

So this combination with the final step removing the battery didnt work.

Did you try to manually shift the derailleur through the gears? I have the impression that the error will be reproduced by maybe by a resistance which was initially caused by the stiff chain.

Sorry, I don't understand (appreciate could be "lost in translation") ...
What part of wiping the RD memory didn't work?
Did you get to the Blue LED followed by flashing yellow?
Once the battery is out to confirm the flashing yellow, of course you will see nothing on the LED as there is nothing to power it.

When you reconnect, the sequence is levers switch on, FD battery in, RD battery in.
Anything else IME usually leads to failed connection.

Sorry, i was also replying to the unsolved matter of the user MFT. I was reffering to the failed isolated rear derailleur memory reset procedure.

I guess the described procedure in your previous post describes the whole memory rest best.

[MFT]

Even after i rendered flexiblile most of the links the rear derailleur showed me some errors (short red flashes) and the front derailleur wasn't able to swap the chainring.

However, this auto resolved by spinning the chain and gear changes. In your case the stable red light indicates a motor error.

Does the rear derailleur also goes in the red error state if the tension resp. Chain is removed?

Yes it does - no matter what I do (remove chain etc) it remains in this error state (which is a flashing red light). The only thing that stops the flashing red is long hold on mode to enter the blue->green->red cycle. No matter what I select, back to red flashing error state.

The only other thing I've noticed is that in the blue->green->red cycle, the led seems to flicker. Battery/voltage issue?

Without physically seeing it, I can't tell for sure - but you may have got stuck in a logic loop.
One way out of this (if it is the problem) is to wipe the memory on all the components and reset the system as a whole.

Before you do that, though, verify that you have versions 0.0.99 of the rear and front derailleur firmware (at time of writing, the most recent).
Check you have lever firmware 0.0.55 (ditto).

If you have and the problem persists, then try as follows, in this order:
1. Remove the batteries from both derailleurs.
2. Press and hold the mode button on a shifter (doesn't matter which).
3. When you see the blue-red-green cycle start, release the mode button.
4. On blue, short press the mode button.
5. You should see a flashing blue LED. At this point, switch the lever off.
6. Do the same on the second lever.
7. Replace the battery in the FD and press & hold the mode button until you see the blue-red-green cycle start, release the mode button.
8. On blue, short press the mode button.
9. You should see, as with the levers & for the same reason, a flashing blue LED.
10. Remove the battery.
11. Replace the battery in the RD and press & hold the mode button until you see the blue-red-green cycle start, release the mode button.
12. On blue, short press the mode button.
13. You should see a flashing blue followed by a fast flashing yellow.
14. Remove the battery to confirm the deletion of the RD memory.
15. Switch the levers on.
16. Replace the battery in the FD.
17. Replace the battery in the RD.
18. Shake the bicycle to make sure all the inertia switches are tripped.
19. All should now re-pair correctly.

That is the hardest possible reset of the firmware at the existing firmware version.
The components can be returned to the state they were in when shipped but it's exceedingly rare to need to do that.

This is a slightly more elaborate way of doing the job than we usually use - but the switching off / battery removal at each step absolutely ensures that there can be no external interference during the process.

If you are not super familiar with the system or have to try any step a couple of times, so it takes a little longer, it's worth giving the bike a shake from time to time as the inertia switches need to be tripped to allow the operation to take place - that is, the components need to be "switched on".

If you still have a problem after that, please contact your local market SC or drop me an email and either I or the factory will assist further.

Thanks Graeme! It's now with Condor who are talking directly to Campag about it - guess they might be talking to you about it.

[JensNL]

I received this mail from Campagnolo

On the occasion of World Bicycle Day, Campagnolo encourages the beauty of a healthy lifestyle and the desire for performance rewarding those who own a Campagnolo EPS groupset.

From 3 June to 30 June 2024, renew your racing bike groupset by taking advantage of the promotional initiative dedicated to the Super Record Wireless groupset: choose the maximum in Campagnolo road technology and receive a special 25% discount on purchase of the
Super Record Wireless groupset.

https://view.email.campagnolo.com/?qs=1 ... 6eb15ec8bc

[graeme_f_k]

Even after i rendered flexiblile most of the links the rear derailleur showed me some errors (short red flashes) and the front derailleur wasn't able to swap the chainring.

However, this auto resolved by spinning the chain and gear changes. In your case the stable red light indicates a motor error.

Does the rear derailleur also goes in the red error state if the tension resp. Chain is removed?

Yes it does - no matter what I do (remove chain etc) it remains in this error state (which is a flashing red light). The only thing that stops the flashing red is long hold on mode to enter the blue->green->red cycle. No matter what I select, back to red flashing error state.

The only other thing I've noticed is that in the blue->green->red cycle, the led seems to flicker. Battery/voltage issue?

Without physically seeing it, I can't tell for sure - but you may have got stuck in a logic loop.
One way out of this (if it is the problem) is to wipe the memory on all the components and reset the system as a whole.

Before you do that, though, verify that you have versions 0.0.99 of the rear and front derailleur firmware (at time of writing, the most recent).
Check you have lever firmware 0.0.55 (ditto).

If you have and the problem persists, then try as follows, in this order:
1. Remove the batteries from both derailleurs.
2. Press and hold the mode button on a shifter (doesn't matter which).
3. When you see the blue-red-green cycle start, release the mode button.
4. On blue, short press the mode button.
5. You should see a flashing blue LED. At this point, switch the lever off.
6. Do the same on the second lever.
7. Replace the battery in the FD and press & hold the mode button until you see the blue-red-green cycle start, release the mode button.
8. On blue, short press the mode button.
9. You should see, as with the levers & for the same reason, a flashing blue LED.
10. Remove the battery.
11. Replace the battery in the RD and press & hold the mode button until you see the blue-red-green cycle start, release the mode button.
12. On blue, short press the mode button.
13. You should see a flashing blue followed by a fast flashing yellow.
14. Remove the battery to confirm the deletion of the RD memory.
15. Switch the levers on.
16. Replace the battery in the FD.
17. Replace the battery in the RD.
18. Shake the bicycle to make sure all the inertia switches are tripped.
19. All should now re-pair correctly.

That is the hardest possible reset of the firmware at the existing firmware version.
The components can be returned to the state they were in when shipped but it's exceedingly rare to need to do that.

This is a slightly more elaborate way of doing the job than we usually use - but the switching off / battery removal at each step absolutely ensures that there can be no external interference during the process.

If you are not super familiar with the system or have to try any step a couple of times, so it takes a little longer, it's worth giving the bike a shake from time to time as the inertia switches need to be tripped to allow the operation to take place - that is, the components need to be "switched on".

If you still have a problem after that, please contact your local market SC or drop me an email and either I or the factory will assist further.

Thanks Graeme! It's now with Condor who are talking directly to Campag about it - guess they might be talking to you about it.

I have indeed spoken to Fish at Condor about it!

One thing to note - if degreasing the chain for wax, it's essential that the chain is off the bike for that process and the degreaser doesn't come into contact with the RD at all.

There is an external linkage between the battery compartment and the motor unit / software compartment that is well sealed against moisture under normal washing conditions (detergent and water) but strong degreasers can cause an issue with the sealing both there & at the motor (hence Campagnolo's cleaning advice).

[MFT]

I have indeed spoken to Fish at Condor about it!

One thing to note - if degreasing the chain for wax, it's essential that the chain is off the bike for that process and the degreaser doesn't come into contact with the RD at all.

There is an external linkage between the battery compartment and the motor unit / software compartment that is well sealed against moisture under normal washing conditions (detergent and water) but strong degreasers can cause an issue with the sealing both there & at the motor (hence Campagnolo's cleaning advice).

Thanks for your help then! It's back and working. Only issue is that the rear battery status is now not showing up in the app. Most strange. Any suggestions? (firmware version 0.1.6

And for sure - no degreaser anywhere near it. Chain off and into a jar of Silca chain stripper.

[GaBa]

How is everyone else finding ergonomics of the levers? I've put the groupset on roval rapide cockpit (if it matters) and there is a dip from lever to the handlebar which I find uncomfortable. Being in aero position on the hoods grabbing "horns" is fine, but holding levers on the part where there's a transition from bars to levers I get some discomfort at my palms. I prefer having this part straight as it is with DA or with 11s campagnolo levers I've been using so far and loved them (and still do since bike is still in my stable).

[joeyb1000]

How is everyone else finding ergonomics of the levers? I've put the groupset on roval rapide cockpit (if it matters) and there is a dip from lever to the handlebar which I find uncomfortable. Being in aero position on the hoods grabbing "horns" is fine, but holding levers on the part where there's a transition from bars to levers I get some discomfort at my palms. I prefer having this part straight as it is with DA or with 11s campagnolo levers I've been using so far and loved them (and still do since bike is still in my stable).

I did notice the issue you mention (although I'm in a unique position as I'm using a Deda Deep bar). I raised the lever up a bit, and it feels much better now.

[MFT]

How is everyone else finding ergonomics of the levers? I've put the groupset on roval rapide cockpit (if it matters) and there is a dip from lever to the handlebar which I find uncomfortable. Being in aero position on the hoods grabbing "horns" is fine, but holding levers on the part where there's a transition from bars to levers I get some discomfort at my palms. I prefer having this part straight as it is with DA or with 11s campagnolo levers I've been using so far and loved them (and still do since bike is still in my stable).

I did notice the issue you mention (although I'm in a unique position as I'm using a Deda Deep bar). I raised the lever up a bit, and it feels much better now.IMG_2064.jpeg

Same - on initial install wasn't great, but some adjustments (raising up, point it inboard a few degrees) made a world of difference. Comfortable now.

[joeyb1000]

How is everyone else finding ergonomics of the levers? I've put the groupset on roval rapide cockpit (if it matters) and there is a dip from lever to the handlebar which I find uncomfortable. Being in aero position on the hoods grabbing "horns" is fine, but holding levers on the part where there's a transition from bars to levers I get some discomfort at my palms. I prefer having this part straight as it is with DA or with 11s campagnolo levers I've been using so far and loved them (and still do since bike is still in my stable).

I did notice the issue you mention (although I'm in a unique position as I'm using a Deda Deep bar). I raised the lever up a bit, and it feels much better now.IMG_2064.jpeg

I did want to add to this. While I don't consider them "turned in", my levers do turn in a little. When I measure the seam on the top of the lever hood, I get 40cm apart where the lever meets the bar (it's a 40cm bar) and 38cm at the top of the knobs.