Are We Getting A New Cannondale Supersix?

[pragga]

Is anyone using a Slam That Stem headset bearing cover? I'm thinking about getting that and a Vision Metron 6D

[floriansantana]

And another question to my fellow SuperSix Evo owners:

Can someone tell me the dimensions of the headset bearings of the new Evo frame?

I need to change mine and I don’t want to shell out 80 euros for the whole headset including expander and all the topcaps and stuff, I only need bearings. Or is there a reasonably priced alternative to the standard headset from Cannondale?

I found out that the plastic topcap that comes with the frame (the one to use with a normal stem) is basically useless for protecting the upper bearing against water or sweat. And even worse the tiny screw that tightens the topcap gets rusty easily and the rust goes right through onto the bearing. My upper bearing is really done. I replaced the topcap with a standard one now.

I'm using Cane Creek Black Oxyde headset bearings, marketing claims say they're more resistant to rust/sweat but time will tell, but Cane Creek makes various grades/price points headset bearings in the correct size. 54cm and smaller frames use IS42 top and IS47 bottom bearings (same sizes as previous Evos), the 56cm and up have a bigger lower bearing though, I'm not sure of the sizing code for those.

As a precaution, you should grease the little cap bolt and it wont rust. Same with headset bearings, a thin coat of quality grease and normal maintenance (take them out, clean and regrease now and again as they should be, frequency depends of weather conditions you ride in, training inside or not, salty air and humidity when riding near the sea...) will make them last forever, that's why I'm against bikes with integrated routing that goes through the top headset bearing, makes cleaning it and regreasing a lot more painful.

Thanks for the answer, Dan!

Still can't quite figure out which bearings to use... so for a size 56, the upper bearing is still a IS42? The bottom one is then a IS52 (seems to be the next one in size). Or is it a IS47 as well?

The maintenance was quite good I think, I'm normally cleaning and servicing my bikes quite regularly, but I couldn't do anything against the rust of the upper bearing.

Regarding changing bearings: Even on the SuperSix with semi-integrated routing, it's impossible to change the lower bearing without disconnecting the brake hoses, because you can't get the fork outside of the headtube, because the brake hoses are not long enough.

[Beancouter]

One bike to rule them as all?

https://www.cyclingnews.com/features/la ... avel-race/



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[rides4beer]

One bike to rule them as all?

https://www.cyclingnews.com/features/la ... avel-race/

If you can get by on a skinny tire, which pros usually can. I'm 84kg and run a 38mm tire that measures out to 40mm on wide rims, wouldn't run anything smaller than that on gravel. But I'm ok with that, because n+1.

[FrederickVCyclestein]

One bike to rule them as all?

https://www.cyclingnews.com/features/la ... avel-race/

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm loving this trend of increasing tire width compatibility. Having a single bike that can be stretched into multiple roles is very liberating.

[Hexsense]

I don't mind extra tire clearance in Supersix. It's clearance doesn't look bad with 25-28mm tire. Unlike Trek Domane which push clearance to a riddiculous level for road bike.
The 2019 Trek Domane has clearance for 38mm tire officially, which means you can put 40mm in with some clearance. But then 28mm tire leave a lot of gap in there.

[Dan Gerous]

Thanks for the answer, Dan!

Still can't quite figure out which bearings to use... so for a size 56, the upper bearing is still a IS42? The bottom one is then a IS52 (seems to be the next one in size). Or is it a IS47 as well?

The maintenance was quite good I think, I'm normally cleaning and servicing my bikes quite regularly, but I couldn't do anything against the rust of the upper bearing.

Regarding changing bearings: Even on the SuperSix with semi-integrated routing, it's impossible to change the lower bearing without disconnecting the brake hoses, because you can't get the fork outside of the headtube, because the brake hoses are not long enough.

The top bearings are the same across all sizes (and across most Cannondale road bike models in the last decade), IS42, sometimes refered to 'italian', which is integrated, for 1 1/8" diameter steerer, with a 45° seat angle.

Bottom bearings are different, the IS47 used on the 54cm and smaller bikes are integrated, for 1 1/4", 45° seat angle but I had a quick look around and the 56cm and up are 1 3/8" at the lower bearing, so they probably are IS49 by Cane Creek's Standardized Headset Identification System (see table 2) as that's what the larger Synapse frames also use for the lower bearing. IS52 is too big, it's for 1 1/2" steerers.

[Beancouter]

Thought I would share a bit of pimping on my SSE Rim - decided I would use the disc steerer spacers as they look a bit more integrated, then thought I would try and run the rear caliper cable through the disc routing holes to tidy the front end up - pretty pleased with the results.

Cables are Bowden tubes, which I have shrink wrapped as I didn’t want white - total weight was 18g for a metre. Front brake is nice and crisp, rear feels a bit soft but still bites - will keep tinkering...

Bike now down to 6kg - a few more tweaks should take me just below .









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[BianchiDave]

Thought I would share a bit of pimping on my SSE Rim - decided I would use the disc steerer spacers as they look a bit more integrated, then thought I would try and run the rear caliper cable through the disc routing holes to tidy the front end up - pretty pleased with the results.

Cables are Bowden tubes, which I have shrink wrapped as I didn’t want white - total weight was 18g for a metre. Front brake is nice and crisp, rear feels a bit soft but still bites - will keep tinkering...

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That looks great, good job Any more pics of full bike?

[rides4beer]

Again, nothing you guys don't already know, but damn I love this bike! Just begs to be pushed harder and faster. Put 308 miles on her in the first week, PRs all over the place, and it's still cold and windy. Def looking forward to warmer weather. Did a fast group ride on Saturday and noticed that it is significantly easier to bridge up, and hold speed on the front. Granted, this is after about nine months of road biking the gravel bike, so the differences are more obvious, but yeah, she rocks.

Now LB just needs to finish my wheels!!

[pragga]

Found a build on YouTube using the Vision Metron 5D ACR.

You can barely see the cables which looks so clean! Only thing I dislike is how tall it is even when slammed. However, 40 grams lighter than the other two cockpits...

Weight (L100×W400mm):
5D: 393g
5D ACR: 355g
6D: 396g

[Beancouter]

Final build 6.02kg on 50mm Winspace Hyper - 5.97kg with 40mm Feders.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Beancouter]

Looking for some help; I bought the K28000 stem spacer kit on eBay as everyone out of stock but it didn’t come with the bolt for the top cap part - could someone share the spec with me and a photo of how it fixes - I can’t work out if it is a nut + bolt or self tapping screw.




Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[rides4beer]

Looking for some help; I bought the K28000 stem spacer kit on eBay as everyone out of stock but it didn’t come with the bolt for the top cap part - could someone share the spec with me and a photo of how it fixes - I can’t work out if it is a nut + bolt or self tapping screw.

Thanks

It's a hex bolt, so I would assume there's a captured nut on the other side, but I'd have to check to make sure.

[dnb72]

Looking for some help; I bought the K28000 stem spacer kit on eBay as everyone out of stock but it didn’t come with the bolt for the top cap part - could someone share the spec with me and a photo of how it fixes - I can’t work out if it is a nut + bolt or self tapping screw.

Thanks

It's a hex bolt, so I would assume there's a captured nut on the other side, but I'd have to check to make sure.

I can confirm it's a little nut on the other side, accidentally took the bolt out too much once! It's a 2mm bolt if that helps as well