2012 Scott Scale 29er Pro

[Johnny Rad]

Check out my new MTB that I bought last season: 2012 Scott Scale Pro 29er, 2x10 w/XO and X9 (size sm)

Now with 1x12 Eagle XX1 drivetrain, it's ~8.9kg or ~19.8lbs as seen with pedals, cage, bar ends, Garmin + mount, bell, etc.

Updated / current pics lower in this thread...

Previously with 2x10 SRAM X7/9, it was ~9.3kg or ~20.5lbs, as seen with pedals, cage, Garmin mount, etc.

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Thanks to saving 1.15kgs or 2.55lbs, it would’ve been ~10.4kgs or ~23lbs bone stock with all the same goodies. Scott's site says it's 10.2kgs or 22.5lbs sans pedals. Therefore by my modest powers of deduction, I figure their estimate ain't half bad (add my pedals at 174g/pair, the Garmin mount and cage which are 222g or ~.5lb).







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The factory build was XO/X9 2x10 with lots of Scott-branded (pre-Syncros) components ... better make that past tense as it HAD lots of Scott stuff. Here’s my Weight Weenie efforts:

Stan’s Crest 29er tubeless wheels (1606g) replaced DT Swiss XR29 tubeless (2111g) - saved 505g or 1.1lbs and stayed tubeless ... I moved both the DT Swiss RWS QRs and Schwalbe RRs (2.25") over to the new wheelset









SRAM XX 11x36t cassette (213g) replaced SRAM X9 11x36t cassette (355g) - saved 142g or .31lb without giving up any gear inches





Mt Zoom bar (640mm, 111g) replaced Scott Pilot bar (680mm, 279g) - saved 168g or .37lb while giving back ~3/4” on each side





Syntace Flatforce stem (77mm, 135g) replaced Scott no-name stem (70mm, 129g) - added 6g or .01lb in exchange for a better position (~15mm more reach and ~20mm lower partially via a thinner / narrower (?) clamping area on the steerer and semi-aggressive negative angle)





Selle San Marco Aspide FX (134g) replaced Selle Italia Team something or other (268g) - saved 134g or .3lb … once you go Aspide you never go back ... I think that’s what “they” say





Edge (NOS) Composites zero setback post (34.9x 355mm, 188g) replaced Scott post (34.9x 355mm, 294g) - saved 106g or .23lb





Ashima Ai2 rotors (160mm, 81g and 180mm, 107g) replaced Avid HS1 rotors (160mm, 92g and 180mm, 143g) - saved 47g or .10lb









Extralite Ultragrips and caps (16g + 4g) replaced Scott lock-on grips (117g) - saved 97g or .21lb

Oops, I misplaced my pic of the Ultragrips. I believe this is the actual weight.



Mt Zoom clamp (38mm, 6g) replaced Scott no-name clamp (17g) - saved 11g or .02lb





Added “out font” Garmin bar mount from Mt Zoom - added 18g or .04lb



Added Arundel Side-Loader cage - added 30g or .07lb

Oops, I misplaced another pic. I believe this is the actual weight.

Here's the factory spec on the Scott website - http://www.scott-sports.com/global/en/p ... -29-pro-m/

[Johnny Rad]

I still love my ROAD bike and log the vast majority of my riding time it, but had to scratch that MTB itch. I sold my antique Trek 8000 and jumped onto this mean machine...

After ditching the tubes, my first order of business was to hit the trail and reacquaint myself with MTB ... try to get my off-road mojo back! First, it was mainly smooth, rolling single track in Colorado. Now it’s steeper stuff (still not very technical) with fast descents in northern Utah where I’m learning to trust myself, tires, brakes, etc. The off-road adventure is fun and here’s what I initially decided with my road bias:
* The 29er wheels are very, very big
* The factory 680mm bars are very, very wide
* Both conspired to make the riding position feel like a cross between a dump truck (staring at that super wide front tire all the time) and a beach cruiser (bolt upright posture)

A few hundred miles later, I finally settled into my MTB and stopped over-thinking it (as much). The wheels stopped looking and feeling like ferris wheels and the bar didn't feel nearly as wide. Even so, I still found myself gripping the bars an inch or two inboard from the ends and I found myself getting extra low on steeper ascents to keep the front wheel from coming off the ground. Enter a new bar and stem. Both “upgrades” have worked well for me, but now wonder if the 1.5" wider bar might've been OK as is.

By the way, it’s awfully beautiful out there in the hills. These pics are from late last fall.

[Johnny Rad]

Specialized S-Works Trail shoes, size 42.5 (2012 or '13?)

They fit me like a champ, but I get that creepy feeling the BOA dials won’t last forever. They’re kinda persnickety and require a bit of attention every once in awhile when the line gets a bit twisted in the dial, but then again they haven’t entirely let me down. Seems one of the lines has a distinct kink in it now. I’m looking forward to replacing them with Bont Vaypor XCs one day...

[Johnny Rad]

RIGID! This was my last MTB, which hadn’t been ridden in anger for many moons (editor’s note: this means ~20 years!). It had long ago been been converted to kid trailer duty hence the slicks. It’s probably an ’88 or ’89 Trek 8000 with Shimano Deore, Trek Matrix, Tioga and other rad period correct accouterments. Tearfully, she recently moved on to another caretaker.

[devinci]

nice bike

personnaly I think 640mm bars are very narrow for a 29er bike.

Wide bars feel absurdly wide when you first try them, but after a few rides you'll want wider. Wide bars is where it's at for 29er and technical riding

[Getter]

^^ Yup...once you wide...you won't go back. I went from 590mm bars on my 26 to 710mm on my 29er. It feels so much better when you're riding over chunk at speed.

Only thing I find odd looking if the Garmin mount. I find that the out front mounts look strange with flat bars....plus if you crash...there goes the Garmin.

I got a stem mount from K-Edge.


Great build and weight!

Ever since I built up my 29er...I've been spending less and less time on the road bike.

[Johnny Rad]

I've got my Garmin computer "out front" because it's considerably easier and quicker to see than on my stem. I have no intention of going back on my mtb or roadie.

I understand the comments about wider bars, but don't log enough miles on my mtb to worry - for now.

I need advice on my Edge non-setback seat post cradle, which occasionally slips and causes my saddle to point nose up. I've got some tacx paste in there and really cranked on the bolt, but it still finds a way to slip every third ride or so. Any ideas?! It's getting rather annoying.

[Jamescarter]

Use of scales are always beneficial for us in different forms.A good example of scale usage is above . WE can easily get exact results by digital scales.

[Johnny Rad]

I have a new found respect for MTB'ers! I only roll out my MTB a handful of times a year usually in the Fall when I'm at peak fitness and enjoy it tremendously. Still, I find the off-road climbing requires brutal bursts with plenty of long drawn-out slo-mo grinds uphill. I've always thought it was harder than road biking. For some unknown reason, I was drawn to ride the 'Wild Horse' this year...

http://www.ridewildhorse.com/course/

Yesterday I completed the 'Wild Horse' 76mi loop (5K' vert) and it was the single hardest thing I've ever done on a bike. No joke! Centuries on the road? Meh, I feel like I can roll-out of bed and knock one off. Double-century on the road? With five under my belt, they're no longer intimidating.

The Wild Horse threw deep sand pits, mini-stream crossings and mud at me - and (somewhat gently) bucked me off at mile 15 out of 76, ugh! Chalk it up to recklessness as a MTB noob braking way too late for a tight turn filled with loose dirt. Fortunately, it was a low speed tumble - maybe 5-10mph - and I escaped with mere flesh wounds to my hip and elbow. However, it tore off one bar-end and messed up my RD. (The shifting got progressively worse with the RD increasingly perferring to run in the middle of the cassette. It made ugly noises at the top and bottom of the cassette. Later when I couldn't backpedal, I figured the hanger and/or RD was bent. This morning, I found only an 1/8th of the lower jockey wheel remaining in the RD cage. Damn!)

Pushing a MTB up and down trails, in and out of the siwrling wind and sun with a busted up RD threw me into a near bonk, totally exhausted situation! I simply didn't eat or drink enough and my RD gave me fits (my fault). I find that it's so much easier to regularly fuel on the smooth blacktop and I can gauge my water intake by counting bottles, but in hindsight my Camelback and rocky terrain threw me off. Way off.

As an off-road neophyte, I was happy to be on a MTB. Seemed most of the riders were on cross / gravel bike - and most of them were strong riders that could handle the trade-off's. They excelled when the jeep trails / forest service roads opened up and smoothed out, but suffered through the few sand pits and mud. They climbed well, but descended timidly. I appreciated my fat tires and front suspension. Will also say tubeless sealant is awesome. Cleaning up my machine this morning, I spotted SIX different times it saved my bacon. Outstanding!

[Johnny Rad]

Post-tumble, I replaced my cracked bar with another (wider) MT Zoom unit with MT Zoom bar-ends and KCNC plugs to keep the ends in place. Looks like I added <75g bringing my Scale to sub-9.4kg.

I think I’ll try Wild Horse again next year...

[Johnny Rad]

Suspect the next upgrade to my Scale will be a conversion from 2x10 X0 / X9 to 1x12 Eagle, MTB eTap and maybe EE Wings crank.

I like the idea of ditching some weight at the crank in favor of 1x simplicity, adding always perfect robot shifting and cleaning-up the bar clutter.

So, when do we think MTB eTap will launch?

[scant]

I love the look of the EE wings crank, RaceFace carbon is lighter for less money, but they have a mixed rep for breaking at the pedal thread insert.

[Johnny Rad]

Suspect the next upgrade to my Scale will be a conversion from 2x10 X0 / X9 to 1x12 Eagle, MTB eTap and maybe EE Wings crank.

I like the idea of ditching some weight at the crank in favor of 1x simplicity, adding always perfect robot shifting and cleaning-up the bar clutter.

Now with 1x12 Eagle XX1 drivetrain (34t and 170mm still), it's ~8.9kg or ~19.8lbs as seen with pedals, cage, Garmin + mount, bell, etc.

Using gross measurements (front wheel, rear wheel and all else), I dropped ~300g or 0.7lbs. (However, I added ~75g earlier this season with bar-ends and a wider bar so the Eagle seems to ~375g of weight savings. Also replaced my f/r Rocket Rons for Racing Ray and Ralph snakeskins.)

Why eTap Eagle? Dry, squeaky cabling after long dusty rides and one less shifter to worry about plus I'm an eTap homer. Mainly that.

Ride report to follow.

[Johnny Rad]

Next? Maybe I'll switchout the Elixir brakes for XTR Race... if I do that, not sure if I'll keep my Ashima Ai2 rotors (160mm, 81g and 180mm, 107g) or go Shimano.

[Johnny Rad]

Next? Maybe I'll switchout the Elixir brakes for XTR Race... if I do that, not sure if I'll keep my Ashima Ai2 rotors (160mm, 81g and 180mm, 107g) or go Shimano.

Well, I've done it now - I added 38g to my MTB with XTR brakes and XT rotors. The Ai2 rotors were warped and I've read glowing reviews of XTR brakes, so here I am. Hopefully I can still go uphill with all this extra weight (and have a lovely descent with the XTR/XT system). Ride report to follow later this week.

NEW brakes and calipers: viewtopic.php?f=14&t=61797&p=1562146#p1562146

207 and 218g dry (425g/set)

Old Elixir 9RS brakes and calipers:

214 and 226 dry-ish (440g/set)

NEW XT rotors: viewtopic.php?f=14&t=61797&p=1563322#p1563322

160 - 112g
180 - 129g
(241g/set)

Old Ai2 Ashima rotors:

160 - 78
180 - 110g
(188g/set)