Heat shrinking link style (Jagwire Elite) cables.

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rlanger
Posts: 382
Joined: Sun Oct 02, 2016 11:53 am

by rlanger

I recently ordered an S-Works Aerofly 2 handlebar and plan to replace my brake cables at the same time as I install the new bar.

I'm currently running DA9150, with the rear brake cable and the etube wire wrapped together before they enter the frame.

My question is: can I forego the links on the section of cable that will be encased in heat shrink tubing (just using the inner polymer tube for the brake cable). Or, should I install the links, then heat shrink?

Thanks.

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alcatraz
Posts: 4064
Joined: Mon Aug 29, 2016 11:19 am

by alcatraz

Without the links your brake won't work at all.

The housing is being compressed when you apply tension to the cable. It can't be allowed to compress even by a few tenths of a millimeter to prevent spongyness and so people even file the housing ends flat to maximize the contacting surface area (not link style) to maybe reduce a tenth of a mm of compression.

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nickf
Posts: 1430
Joined: Sat Mar 06, 2010 10:34 pm

by nickf

Is there a cable stop where the links will end when it enters the frame? If there is a cable stop then sure the plastic liner can run inside the frame, that's how I always run mine.

rlanger
Posts: 382
Joined: Sun Oct 02, 2016 11:53 am

by rlanger

nickf wrote:
Sun Nov 03, 2019 12:38 pm
Is there a cable stop where the links will end when it enters the frame? If there is a cable stop then sure the plastic liner can run inside the frame, that's how I always run mine.
Yes, there's a cable stop, but I will have to add links prior to the stop anyway because the heat shrink will end leaving about 10cm of cable, since the brake cable enters the frame in the top tube and the Di2 cable enters the frame in the down tube.

blehargh
Posts: 56
Joined: Thu Aug 09, 2018 8:08 pm

by blehargh

What frame is this?

rlanger
Posts: 382
Joined: Sun Oct 02, 2016 11:53 am

by rlanger

blehargh wrote:
Mon Nov 04, 2019 12:45 am
What frame is this?
De Rosa Idol.

bilwit
Posts: 1526
Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2016 5:49 am
Location: Seattle, WA

by bilwit

have to use the links underneath the wrap

FYI you can use this stuff and install/adjust/take off (over the links) whenever you want instead of the heat shrink wrap

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IK ... UTF8&psc=1

rlanger
Posts: 382
Joined: Sun Oct 02, 2016 11:53 am

by rlanger

bilwit wrote:
Mon Nov 04, 2019 3:15 am
have to use the links underneath the wrap

FYI you can use this stuff and install/adjust/take off (over the links) whenever you want instead of the heat shrink wrap

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IK ... UTF8&psc=1
Thanks a lot bilwit. I will check that stuff out. Are you using it on your Team Machine? That bike is beautiful.

BTW, how do you like your LB wheelset. I'm seriously considering pulling the trigger on those myself.

bilwit
Posts: 1526
Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2016 5:49 am
Location: Seattle, WA

by bilwit

rlanger wrote:
Mon Nov 04, 2019 11:07 am
Thanks a lot bilwit. I will check that stuff out. Are you using it on your Team Machine? That bike is beautiful.

BTW, how do you like your LB wheelset. I'm seriously considering pulling the trigger on those myself.
Yep, saw it mentioned somewhere on this forum when I first made the jump to Di2, I've also seen it on some World Tour bikes as well. It's just convenient, functionally better (the cables can still move around without risk of tugging), and aethetically a bit neater to my eye (although it can be a little bulky if you're fitting a hydraulic cable+di2 instead of a brake cable+di2).

I've tried cheap generic eastern clinchers before but LB is the perfect fit for me. It's just about as much as I'd want to spend at most for a carbon wheelset and is widely-used/reputable with great customization options. Service is great as well (you can ask them to pick out their lightest rims on hand).. and I can get them built up in North America. My stance is that if you go (relatively) cheap on the rims then don't cheap out on the hubs, otherwise you might as well get a generic set with Novatecs or whatever. I had mine built up with Industry Nine's. Next set down the line I'll probably go with Carbon-Ti to save some grams though, maybe tubular for special occassions. I actually have 3.5 sets of LB wheels atm, 56/65mm + 35/45mm for the rim brake bike and 36/36/56mm for the disc bike. If you're getting rim brake ones, I definitely recommend the ones with the textured track because in my experience they definitely do help in the wet in comparison to the regular.

rlanger
Posts: 382
Joined: Sun Oct 02, 2016 11:53 am

by rlanger

bilwit wrote:
Tue Nov 05, 2019 3:14 am
If you're getting rim brake ones, I definitely recommend the ones with the textured track because in my experience they definitely do help in the wet in comparison to the regular.
Awesome. Thanks for the thoughtful response. I am going with the rim brake version and was planning to splurge for the textured brake track.

Unfortunately, I was planning to get the cheaper hubs as my budget is just about US$700 max.
Last edited by rlanger on Wed Nov 06, 2019 10:02 am, edited 1 time in total.

rlanger
Posts: 382
Joined: Sun Oct 02, 2016 11:53 am

by rlanger

DP

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