Good to know there is a channel to protect the shaft of the fork. The cable bending will be critical to make it work indeed. Would this be the reason why Cannondale didn't make this the standard way of cable routing? Anyway it's worth a try and maybe some Nokon outercasing might make it a bit easier.floriansantana wrote: ↑Fri Aug 30, 2019 9:36 amThe cables will not rub against the steerertube (or what I think you mean the shaft of the fork), because the channel for the cables and the actual steerertube are seperated. You will have to do some quite heavy bends to integrate the shifter cables though, so not sure about the shifting quality.bibirider8 wrote: ↑Fri Aug 30, 2019 8:43 amGood reflexion!! I would do that too. Protect the steeringtube with a road inner tube
Are We Getting A New Cannondale Supersix?
Moderator: robbosmans
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com
- Dan Gerous
- Posts: 2413
- Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2007 6:28 pm
I've seen one SystemSix with mechanical Dura-Ace built with the cables going internally, frame size and bar height might play a role in how tight the bends are but I was going to suggest using Nokon to help in that regard... I would also wrap it with some foam or other soft stuff so the alloy housing don't rattle inside.Mr. A wrote: ↑Fri Aug 30, 2019 5:30 pmGood to know there is a channel to protect the shaft of the fork. The cable bending will be critical to make it work indeed. Would this be the reason why Cannondale didn't make this the standard way of cable routing? Anyway it's worth a try and maybe some Nokon outercasing might make it a bit easier.
https://www.veloespresso.co.nz/products/fr0c20ssr
Looks like there will be a rimbrake frameset. Do someone have more information -colors, hi-mod, EU availability etc?
Looks like there will be a rimbrake frameset. Do someone have more information -colors, hi-mod, EU availability etc?
-
- Posts: 60
- Joined: Sun Jun 02, 2019 8:38 pm
Found those framesets on the net. With disc brakes though. Beige is interesting...
https://in.ciclimattio.com/s/cannondale ... 85&m=53062
https://in.ciclimattio.com/s/cannondale ... 85&m=53062
It's said to only be the cheaper version with rimbrakes so no hi-mod.Hoven wrote: ↑Sun Sep 01, 2019 3:04 pmhttps://www.veloespresso.co.nz/products/fr0c20ssr
Looks like there will be a rimbrake frameset. Do someone have more information -colors, hi-mod, EU availability etc?
/jonas l
http://instagram.com/jonaslundb
http://instagram.com/jonaslundb
I’ve pulled the trigger on the 105 disc model with the intent to upgrade the crap out of it, aside from the BB everything will get swapped out, so I’m really looking forward to the end-result. Unfortunately there’s a six week wait for the shipment but at least that gives me time for all of the parts to arrive.
I’ve ordered an integrated bar/stem as per previous discussions in this thread, the weight savings of it over the knot combo will make up for the lack of hi-mod frame and look a lot nicer hopefully.
I’m going to have a crack at creating a 3D printed transition spacer that will blend to the underside of the stem and feed the cables into the cable duct in front of the steerer. I’m not sure yet if it will sit on top of the factory spacers or replace them altogether; that will depend on how well it blends with the back of the stem. The whole concept may or may not work but it’s worth a try; I’ll be happy to share the STL file of the finished product if people want to use it.
Does anyone have one of the factory spacers left over from their build that they could post a few photos from all three views with the basic dimensions? I want to start putting the model together of the transition spacer and that will let me get a head start before the bike arrives.
Thanks, D
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
I’ve ordered an integrated bar/stem as per previous discussions in this thread, the weight savings of it over the knot combo will make up for the lack of hi-mod frame and look a lot nicer hopefully.
I’m going to have a crack at creating a 3D printed transition spacer that will blend to the underside of the stem and feed the cables into the cable duct in front of the steerer. I’m not sure yet if it will sit on top of the factory spacers or replace them altogether; that will depend on how well it blends with the back of the stem. The whole concept may or may not work but it’s worth a try; I’ll be happy to share the STL file of the finished product if people want to use it.
Does anyone have one of the factory spacers left over from their build that they could post a few photos from all three views with the basic dimensions? I want to start putting the model together of the transition spacer and that will let me get a head start before the bike arrives.
Thanks, D
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Sun Aug 11, 2019 6:11 am
I too just pulled the trigger on a 105 Disc, Size 48. Hopefully its the right decision, being 60 kg with a climbers build power to weight is my only card to play so going disc is a huge leap. In races I think it'll descend better so that'll be a wash so it'll only hurt on Strava and Hill Climbs.
I'm not quite sure what the stock weight of the 105 is, but I'm guessing somewhere around 8.1 and I can hopefully drop that to 7.3 (which is what my current bike weighs). It looks like below I can hit that (let me know if any of these numbers are off).
I'm also interested in modding out the spacers; I think with the metron it can be done; the bar sits back past the steerer tube and the Knot goes in front so they dont cross each other up. I also think you modify the bottom plastic cover to be close to seamless; I really don't want to see any cables. I'm not opposed to the KNOT stuff but its also 180 grams over the Metron which is a big hit.
I'm not quite sure what the stock weight of the 105 is, but I'm guessing somewhere around 8.1 and I can hopefully drop that to 7.3 (which is what my current bike weighs). It looks like below I can hit that (let me know if any of these numbers are off).
I'm also interested in modding out the spacers; I think with the metron it can be done; the bar sits back past the steerer tube and the Knot goes in front so they dont cross each other up. I also think you modify the bottom plastic cover to be close to seamless; I really don't want to see any cables. I'm not opposed to the KNOT stuff but its also 180 grams over the Metron which is a big hit.
-
- Posts: 226
- Joined: Thu Dec 25, 2014 8:57 pm
You have a shot of going under 7 kilos I think. Mine weighs 7,2 kilos in size 56.furiousferret wrote: ↑Mon Sep 02, 2019 5:39 amI'm not quite sure what the stock weight of the 105 is, but I'm guessing somewhere around 8.1 and I can hopefully drop that to 7.3 (which is what my current bike weighs). It looks like below I can hit that (let me know if any of these numbers are off).
Cannondale SuperSix Evo Disc
Cannondale SystemSix HiMod Disc
@floriansantana
Cannondale SystemSix HiMod Disc
@floriansantana
Did you count just one tire in? (don't think you could get a pair of tires weighing 226g total )furiousferret wrote: ↑Mon Sep 02, 2019 5:39 amI'm not quite sure what the stock weight of the 105 is, but I'm guessing somewhere around 8.1 and I can hopefully drop that to 7.3 (which is what my current bike weighs). It looks like below I can hit that (let me know if any of these numbers are off).
Also, the quoted Etap HRD shifter weights (700+ grams) already include brake calipers, no need to add them extra.
And what's that Dash saddle at 155g? Do they even make such a heavy one?
What about BB? Included in the frameset weight?
Pedals?
Still, you probably have add some extra stuff of around almost 100g or more - rotor bolts and/or lockrings (if centerlock), bar tape, cages, computer mount.
Minimum bike categories required in the stable:
Aero bike | GC bike | GC rim bike | Climbing bike | Climbing rim bike | Classics bike | Gravel bike | TT bike | Indoors bike
Aero bike | GC bike | GC rim bike | Climbing bike | Climbing rim bike | Classics bike | Gravel bike | TT bike | Indoors bike
I'm thinking 8.1kg for the stock 105 is pretty optimistic, I'm guessing at least 8.5. Does anyone have a real weight?
I'm aiming for 7.5 with a pretty similar build to FF so if it can be closer to 7 then awesome
Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
I'm aiming for 7.5 with a pretty similar build to FF so if it can be closer to 7 then awesome
Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
-
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Sun Aug 11, 2019 6:11 am
I didn't include the bb and the pedals are Favero Assiomas.mrlobber wrote: ↑Mon Sep 02, 2019 8:40 amDid you count just one tire in? (don't think you could get a pair of tires weighing 226g total )furiousferret wrote: ↑Mon Sep 02, 2019 5:39 amI'm not quite sure what the stock weight of the 105 is, but I'm guessing somewhere around 8.1 and I can hopefully drop that to 7.3 (which is what my current bike weighs). It looks like below I can hit that (let me know if any of these numbers are off).
Also, the quoted Etap HRD shifter weights (700+ grams) already include brake calipers, no need to add them extra.
And what's that Dash saddle at 155g? Do they even make such a heavy one?
What about BB? Included in the frameset weight?
Pedals?
Still, you probably have add some extra stuff of around almost 100g or more - rotor bolts and/or lockrings (if centerlock), bar tape, cages, computer mount.
I did just put one tire in (fixed now) and updated the HRD Shifter weights; I knew something was off when I couldn't find a weight for them :p. The Dash (Strike Stock is the low end 'budget' model and I weighed it myself.
These are all rough estimates so I realize its not going to be perfect. I mainly want to see how much weight I can drop.
So with a Metron Cockpit its down -1331 grams; with the KNOT Cockpit that puts it at -1151. I still haven't totally ruled out KNOT but I'd be taking a hit for vanity and a bit of aero. That's probably less than 2 watts (since its so seamless around the stem). I'm not sure if that's worth almost half a pound / 180 grams.
-
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Sun Aug 11, 2019 6:11 am
I didn't include the bb and the pedals are Favero Assiomas.mrlobber wrote: ↑Mon Sep 02, 2019 8:40 amDid you count just one tire in? (don't think you could get a pair of tires weighing 226g total )furiousferret wrote: ↑Mon Sep 02, 2019 5:39 amI'm not quite sure what the stock weight of the 105 is, but I'm guessing somewhere around 8.1 and I can hopefully drop that to 7.3 (which is what my current bike weighs). It looks like below I can hit that (let me know if any of these numbers are off).
Also, the quoted Etap HRD shifter weights (700+ grams) already include brake calipers, no need to add them extra.
And what's that Dash saddle at 155g? Do they even make such a heavy one?
What about BB? Included in the frameset weight?
Pedals?
Still, you probably have add some extra stuff of around almost 100g or more - rotor bolts and/or lockrings (if centerlock), bar tape, cages, computer mount.
I did just put one tire in (fixed now) and updated the HRD Shifter weights; I knew something was off when I couldn't find a weight for them :p. The Dash (Strike Stock) is the low end 'budget' model and I weighed it myself.
These are all rough estimates so I realize its not going to be perfect. I mainly want to see how much weight I can drop.
So with a Metron Cockpit its down -1331 grams; with the KNOT Cockpit that puts it at -1151. I still haven't totally ruled out KNOT but I'd be taking a hit for vanity and a bit of aero. That's probably less than 2 watts (since its so seamless around the stem). I'm not sure if that's worth almost half a pound / 180 grams.
- Dan Gerous
- Posts: 2413
- Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2007 6:28 pm
Deda are adding an updated version of their Alanera integrated bars for 2020, the Alanera DCR with internal hose/wires/cables routing... It's a good looking bar especially with the new more subtle graphics option. I'm not sure how it would look on the SuperSix Evo but its more angular/boxy design would probably fit a lot better with the Evo frame design than the wavy/curvy shape of a Vision Metron. Click the pic for more info but more details like claimed weight should be released at Eurobike.
The sharp bend makes it look probably a bad idea for mechanical drivetrains though and it's probably a PITA to travel with. And another thing, the 'roll' of the bar is quite old school, very low/forward so it might not work well for everyone. Personally I prefer the section behind the hoods to be closer to horizontal than pointing too much downward, a big advantage of the stock KNØT bars.
The sharp bend makes it look probably a bad idea for mechanical drivetrains though and it's probably a PITA to travel with. And another thing, the 'roll' of the bar is quite old school, very low/forward so it might not work well for everyone. Personally I prefer the section behind the hoods to be closer to horizontal than pointing too much downward, a big advantage of the stock KNØT bars.
-
- Posts: 170
- Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2008 5:14 pm
- Contact:
Can anyone comment on how you plan to travel with those fully integrated bars w/internal routing?
Here is how I usually do it (just take off the stem w/handlebar on)
I can hardly imagine what it takes to do the trick on newer frames w/hidden routing
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Here is how I usually do it (just take off the stem w/handlebar on)
I can hardly imagine what it takes to do the trick on newer frames w/hidden routing
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Got the price from Cannondale Australia for the carbon Knot seatpost today: AUD500 which is about USD340
That’s a pretty ridiculous price for a seatpost but there’s 100g on the table. Decisions decisions
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
That’s a pretty ridiculous price for a seatpost but there’s 100g on the table. Decisions decisions
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com