Light skewers without creaking ... possible at all?
Moderator: robbosmans
I tried Tune DC 100/135 (37g) but over few months creaking on the back wheel is started. On every ride, so it became tiresome.
I getting rid of Tune, put Spada skewers (60g) who came with the wheels and that's better. In approx. 2 months just once asked for my attention. But I don't like the look (nowhere near nice as Tune) and it's very unergonomic on fingers/palm. Nothing unbearable, but I started to thinking about Carbon Ti skewers, titan version (39g), nice acid-green colour, but ...
Can I, at all, hope that those skewers will behave more like Spada's and not Tune? Or sub 50-60g is simply too little for enough clamping force, to forget on skewers, at least for month or so? Or will I have to try and see for myself? As I think it would end up
I'm 72-75kg, rim brakes, 1250g alu wheelsets ... average guy, so not too much watts ... but enough hills to put extra pressure on back wheel.
I getting rid of Tune, put Spada skewers (60g) who came with the wheels and that's better. In approx. 2 months just once asked for my attention. But I don't like the look (nowhere near nice as Tune) and it's very unergonomic on fingers/palm. Nothing unbearable, but I started to thinking about Carbon Ti skewers, titan version (39g), nice acid-green colour, but ...
Can I, at all, hope that those skewers will behave more like Spada's and not Tune? Or sub 50-60g is simply too little for enough clamping force, to forget on skewers, at least for month or so? Or will I have to try and see for myself? As I think it would end up
I'm 72-75kg, rim brakes, 1250g alu wheelsets ... average guy, so not too much watts ... but enough hills to put extra pressure on back wheel.
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I'm using taiwaness Carbon + Ti skewers, orignially around 42g, and I machined the axes shorter, finally at 40.X g. I'm light (~55kg) and my peak power is weak, only a little more than 800W, so it's all fine with me.
Carbon + Ti means Carbon lever + Ti axes, not that famous brand.
One of the club team guy around 75kg has used the Fourier's Carbon + Ti skewer, also from taiwan. That really looks nicer than mine. He said it was OK for him when he was 1100W peak, but now he has increased to over 1300W, and is using Zipp's Ti aero skewers.
Carbon + Ti means Carbon lever + Ti axes, not that famous brand.
One of the club team guy around 75kg has used the Fourier's Carbon + Ti skewer, also from taiwan. That really looks nicer than mine. He said it was OK for him when he was 1100W peak, but now he has increased to over 1300W, and is using Zipp's Ti aero skewers.
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- Posts: 2305
- Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2011 9:20 pm
- Location: New Zealand
My Werts don't creak
Same. Another vote for KCNC. Especially in gold.JerryLook wrote:I have two pairs of KCNC ti skewers (44g) and they don’t creak. I’ve used them on a carbon frames and alloy frames, with both carbon and alloy wheels.
I’m 85kg.
Age and treachery shall overcome youth and skill
I don't use any QRs with external cams. They don't give the proper clamping forces. I have the Mavics with titanium shafts (non-butted). But I've also found these online but I don't own them (Specialized). I'd highly recommend either of these. Creaking only tells part of the story. On every pedal stroke the wheel wants to rotate counter-clockwise. You don't want your power wasted in that important interface.
If you have carbon dropouts, and/or wheelhubs with endcaps pushed on, and/or you are strong or heavy....
...you're more likely to experience insufficient clamp force.
My crappy chinese frame and cheap wheels are silent at 600w with 27gr chinese skewers (pair) but my friend's trek bikes and dt hubs (bontrager) sometimes can't make do with even moderately light skewers without requiring a crazy high force on the skewers. They weigh more, rely on skewers to compress the hub together, and the dropouts don't hold the wheels as well perhaps.
...you're more likely to experience insufficient clamp force.
My crappy chinese frame and cheap wheels are silent at 600w with 27gr chinese skewers (pair) but my friend's trek bikes and dt hubs (bontrager) sometimes can't make do with even moderately light skewers without requiring a crazy high force on the skewers. They weigh more, rely on skewers to compress the hub together, and the dropouts don't hold the wheels as well perhaps.
If you have a certain shape carbon dropout, and/or wheelhubs with endcaps pushed on, and/or smooth surface endcaps, and/or you are strong or heavy....
...you're more likely to experience insufficient clamp force.
My crappy chinese frame and cheap wheels are silent at 600w with 27gr chinese skewers (pair) but my friend's trek bikes and dt hubs (bontrager) sometimes can't make do with even moderately light skewers without requiring a crazy high force on the skewers. They weigh more, rely on skewers to compress the hub together, and the dropouts don't hold the wheels as well perhaps.
...you're more likely to experience insufficient clamp force.
My crappy chinese frame and cheap wheels are silent at 600w with 27gr chinese skewers (pair) but my friend's trek bikes and dt hubs (bontrager) sometimes can't make do with even moderately light skewers without requiring a crazy high force on the skewers. They weigh more, rely on skewers to compress the hub together, and the dropouts don't hold the wheels as well perhaps.
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- Joined: Thu Jan 15, 2015 12:47 pm
I chased a creak in my bike for months, replacing bearings, bb, regreasing predals and finally tracked it to a creaking quick release. I resolved it by applying a light amount of grease between body and washer, and washer and cam if that makes sense. There is no grease on part that contacts frame. This stopped creaking on the contact points.
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Extralite streeters are great. Wert are good but huge handforce required. Kcnc if get older version with brass plate not plastic are excellent. I weight 71kg
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