Canyon Aeroad Disc lightening

[mattjohns]

First post woo hoo

I managed to find my dream bike on the Canyon Outlet store

Size large Aeroad disc slx in katusha colours with 11spd etap, 404s and dzero power meter.

I am in love

Buuuuut

A little weight loss wouldn't go amiss

So I'm looking for advice for a 6'3 81 kg child with a fancy bike

Don't really wanna ditch the wheels, pm or aero-ness. Looking more for Thru axles, chainring bolts and smaller things like ti rotor bolts??.

[Nejmann]

Saddle?

[jlok]

CLX50
140 rear rotor

[CAAD8FRED]

Rotor Uno Cassette
Pricey per gram though

Tires and tubes could save some grams

Edit: where’d you buy the bike from. I can’t find the site to buy ex-pro Canyon bikes anymore.

[Lewn777]

You can think outside of the box a little, it's an aero bike so I wouldn't bother with exotic weightloss strategies, instead go for simple fit and forget weight-loss stuff.

1. Tires/tubes? Does the bike have heavy OEM tires/tubes or is it a tubeless setup? I like running Maxxis tubes, welterweight rear and a flyweight front, and keep the tire weight under 250g a tire.
2. Good pedals? If you use Shimano switch to Dura-Ace and cut some weight, last for years.
3. Ti disk bolts. Ti cassette flat bolt thing. Brake clamps and other titanium bolts. Doesn't save much weight, but all those bolts do add up vs steel and most importantly they function just as well in most cases so it's fit and forget. Some bolts can be carbon or alloy for even more weight saving. Titanium cleat bolts are another often overlooked weight saver.
4. Saddle. Heavy OEM saddle with metal rails? Set your favorite saddle in full carbon fibre railed version and under 150g cut a few grams here. Seat bolt clamps post hardware can be a good weight saver, but be sure of compatibility.
5. Front end looks high, cutting the steerer and removing some spacers will help, but be sure you really want to go low.

[demoCRIT]

...

Edit: where’d you buy the bike from. I can’t find the site to buy ex-pro Canyon bikes anymore.

It's still there, Factory outlet -> pro bikes

https://www.canyon.com/en-en/factory-ou ... pro-bikes/


atb

[mattjohns]

You can think outside of the box a little, it's an aero bike so I wouldn't bother with exotic weightloss strategies, instead go for simple fit and forget weight-loss stuff.

1. Tires/tubes? Does the bike have heavy OEM tires/tubes or is it a tubeless setup? I like running Maxxis tubes, welterweight rear and a flyweight front, and keep the tire weight under 250g a tire.
2. Good pedals? If you use Shimano switch to Dura-Ace and cut some weight, last for years.
3. Ti disk bolts. Ti cassette flat bolt thing. Brake clamps and other titanium bolts. Doesn't save much weight, but all those bolts do add up vs steel and most importantly they function just as well in most cases so it's fit and forget. Some bolts can be carbon or alloy for even more weight saving. Titanium cleat bolts are another often overlooked weight saver.
4. Saddle. Heavy OEM saddle with metal rails? Set your favorite saddle in full carbon fibre railed version and under 150g cut a few grams here. Seat bolt clamps post hardware can be a good weight saver, but be sure of compatibility.
5. Front end looks high, cutting the steerer and removing some spacers will help, but be sure you really want to go low.

Thanks for this

I was thinking of using my current Corsa graphene 2 tyres and finding some light butyl tubes because I've ran latex before and pumping each day just isn't an option for me. Any tyres that I could use each day in London without panicking?
Already got 9100 pedals to throw one
Are Ti disc rotot bolts safe? Seen many missed opinions oin here and general interwebs. Never would of thought of cleat bolts.
Saddle is deffo one to think about
Steerer will get dropped a 1cm or so, think 20mm to match my caad12
Gonna throw KMC SL chain for good measure

[mattjohns]

..

[tomtom]

...

Edit: where’d you buy the bike from. I can’t find the site to buy ex-pro Canyon bikes anymore.

It's still there, Factory outlet -> pro bikes

https://www.canyon.com/en-en/factory-ou ... pro-bikes/


atb

That is the old website and doesn't work anymore....I guess this bike was in the "overall" outlet store of canyon? I haven't seen any Pro bikes there and certainly not with disks.....so WELL DONE !

As for the weightsavings, relatively heavy are;
- Sram RED parts
- Zipp 404
- Saddle (although it seems a carbon version isn't it?)

You don't wanna switch them so I fear you cannot gain much....

[mattjohns]

...

Edit: where’d you buy the bike from. I can’t find the site to buy ex-pro Canyon bikes anymore.

It's still there, Factory outlet -> pro bikes

https://www.canyon.com/en-en/factory-ou ... pro-bikes/


atb

That is the old website and doesn't work anymore....I guess this bike was in the "overall" outlet store of canyon? I haven't seen any Pro bikes there and certainly not with disks.....so WELL DONE !

As for the weightsavings, relatively heavy are;
- Sram RED parts
- Zipp 404
- Saddle (although it seems a carbon version isn't it?)

You don't wanna switch them so I fear you cannot gain much....

Yehh I know I'm limiting what I want to lose but I have always wanted a full aero pro spec bike, just wanted to see if I could make a lighter without it losing its zest.

Noones mentioned rotors besides going smaller on the back? Pretty safe to say lighter ones with less braking surface aren't worth the investment?

[Lewn777]

You can think outside of the box a little, it's an aero bike so I wouldn't bother with exotic weightloss strategies, instead go for simple fit and forget weight-loss stuff.

1. Tires/tubes? Does the bike have heavy OEM tires/tubes or is it a tubeless setup? I like running Maxxis tubes, welterweight rear and a flyweight front, and keep the tire weight under 250g a tire.
2. Good pedals? If you use Shimano switch to Dura-Ace and cut some weight, last for years.
3. Ti disk bolts. Ti cassette flat bolt thing. Brake clamps and other titanium bolts. Doesn't save much weight, but all those bolts do add up vs steel and most importantly they function just as well in most cases so it's fit and forget. Some bolts can be carbon or alloy for even more weight saving. Titanium cleat bolts are another often overlooked weight saver.
4. Saddle. Heavy OEM saddle with metal rails? Set your favorite saddle in full carbon fibre railed version and under 150g cut a few grams here. Seat bolt clamps post hardware can be a good weight saver, but be sure of compatibility.
5. Front end looks high, cutting the steerer and removing some spacers will help, but be sure you really want to go low.

Thanks for this

I was thinking of using my current Corsa graphene 2 tyres and finding some light butyl tubes because I've ran latex before and pumping each day just isn't an option for me. Any tyres that I could use each day in London without panicking?
Already got 9100 pedals to throw one
Are Ti disc rotot bolts safe? Seen many missed opinions oin here and general interwebs. Never would of thought of cleat bolts.
Saddle is deffo one to think about
Steerer will get dropped a 1cm or so, think 20mm to match my caad12
Gonna throw KMC SL chain for good measure

I've used ti disk bolts for years on MTB, never had a problem, but remember to loctite 243 them if there isn't any threadlocker on them. There's no danger because there are six bolts, each bolt doesn't have much strain. Torque about 4-5nm. Tiny weight saving though.

Good you've already got 9100 pedals.

London tires? No idea there, but I would probably go with an endurance tire like a Michelin Pro 4 endurance but they can fit very tight on some frames. How about something IRC? Finish off those corsa graphene 2s first.

Change the stem faceplate bolts, but the seatpost bolts are the really chunky steel bolts on most bikes. Pull them and measure with vernier calipers and make sure you get the exact same size but ti bolts.

[tomtom]

"Noones mentioned rotors besides going smaller on the back? Pretty safe to say lighter ones with less braking surface aren't worth the investment?";

- You have Sram discs so I'm not sure I you can gain much there. I switched from Ultegra 160mm to XTR 140mm and saved about 40 gram in total. On the weight of your bike (8kg or so?) probably not so much as you would like.

[youngs_modulus]

Noones mentioned rotors besides going smaller on the back? Pretty safe to say lighter ones with less braking surface aren't worth the investment?

I’d be pretty comfortable running a 140mm KCNC Razor or Ashima AI2 rotor on the rear. They’re both about 62-65 grams, or about half the weight of a SRAM or Shimano 160mm disc. Titanium bolts are fine for the front, and I’d even consider aluminum bolts for the rear disc. But either way, the weight savings from the bolts alone is underwhelming. But this is Weight Weenies, so I’d still do it.