Weight weenie choices that went too far?

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
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by RocketRacing

Start with how much you weigh for context.

- What lightweight upgrade did you make that you eventually decided to swap back for functional/safety/structural/etc reasons?

-What part did you settle on?


59kg. A berk lupina round rail saddle had too much flex for my needs. The oval rail version was the best saddle i have owned.

by Weenie

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by spdntrxi

^ is that not really more a function of the clamp.. round vs oval ? not the greatest example. Or did you really choose round over oval to save maybe what 2grams ? too much splitting hairs on that one.

maybe chainrings.. like fiberlyte to OEM or Praxis would be better...
2019 BMC TM01 Road UCI config 7.36kg

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by dgasmd

Swapped the original Campagnolo Record 10 sp jockey wheels for carbon ones with a carbon cage. They were crap, noisy, and had a lot of resistance. Plus, the cage bolt rubbed the cassette. Swapped back to originals in not time.

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by Lewn777

Lightweight Taiwanese ti skewers. Changed to DT Swiss Ti Skewers for strength and reliabilility.
Aftermarket ceramic jockey wheels that disintegrated in 5000kms.

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by Klaster_1

Running tires not designed for tubeless in tubeless setup because of weight. First time was a couple of years ago with MTB Conti RS tires, it was a nightmare: during one long ride I had to pump the air every 20 minutes. Second time was with Rocket Ron SS, it didn't leak that much and I used better sealant, but it dries up so fast I gave up pumping while bike is in storage; for comparison, the other tire holds shape for weeks.

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by iheartbianchi

Saddles, skewers and tires for me. Never going light on those again! Oh, and bar tape!
Bianchi Oltre XR4
Celeste Matte
Campy SR 11spd mechanical
Bora Ultra 50 tubs
Viseon 5D / stock bits and parts

Bianchi Specialissima Pantani Edition
Campy SR / Chorus 11spd mechanical
Fulcrum Racing Speed 35 tubs
FSA / Deda bits and parts

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by Kayrehn

Tufo Elite tubulars - hard and stiff and I took them off after a handful of rides. Probably gonna puncture in no time at all anyway.

Fiberlyte chainrings - chain drops in between the rings frequently, a problem never experienced with other rings. Pickup pins drops off one by one. Teeth splinters and break off. Nice and light but functionality is just crap.

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by alcatraz

I rode for a year without a compression plug. I finally put one in to stop all the comments from the nannies. :smartass: (I consider myself quite lightweight 60-65kg)

Full ceramic bearings. They can't take any real load.

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by pdlpsher1

Extralite Aliens 4 QR with butted Ti rod can’t keep my front wheel centered. Sold it at a huge loss and replaced it with Mavic Ti QR with internal cam and non-butted rod.

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by beanbiken

Chain rings for me, went from Extralites to TA Specialties and then BOR's.....

Coffee & carbon

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by mrlobber

Enduro Zero full ceramic bearings - garbage.
Tririg Mecury pedals - sent them back after one unscrewed mid ride and caused me to crash (to a degree, a design problem to all similar pedals)
Fiberlyte inner cage plate for SRAM Etap RD Wifli - turned out it weighs the same as original, so money wasted.
Chinese lightweight skewers - they simply don't work. Much better experience with Tune DC/AC.
On the fence with Extralite rings - they're on my uberlight bike, paired with Etap, and sort of work OK - but I still try avoiding front shifts if I can :D
Retired bikes: Cervelo S5 2015 / Felt AR FRD 2014 / Cannondale SS HM 2014 / Scott Addict SL 2014 / Scott Plasma Premium 2014 / Orbea Orca 2008 / Look 596 /

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by Karvalo

Klaster_1 wrote:
Wed May 15, 2019 2:49 am
Running tires not designed for tubeless in tubeless setup because of weight. First time was a couple of years ago with MTB Conti RS tires, it was a nightmare: during one long ride I had to pump the air every 20 minutes.
Haha, did exactly the same a good while ago. Kept the faith for a while that the porous sidewalls would eventually clog up if I put more sealant in but eventually had to admit defeat. Since found that apart from pure straight line speed heavier MTB tyres are better in every conceivable way anyway.

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by kgt

First generation KCNC brakes. Lightweight but braking suffered a lot.

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by mattr

Klaster_1 wrote:
Wed May 15, 2019 2:49 am
Running tires not designed for tubeless in tubeless setup because of weight.
Think that's just you. I ran some 26" Conti SS tyres tubeless for a season that you could actually see through the sidewalls. Pin pricks shining through. ~90 ml of sealant and ran them for a year with no issues. Took a far bit of prep tho, keying the sidewalls etc.
I still use lots of not tubeless ready tyres tubelessly, but mostly ones with a lot more grip!

My bad choices:-
Light saddle, ended up soaking my shorts with blood from the chafing saved about 100 grams. Couldn't ride my bike for 10 days. (Flite Transalp.)

Light seatpin, one of those horrific CNC ones where the saddle cradle simply rests on a scallop taken out of the top of an aluminium tube. Wouldn't stay tight, kept moving, always at the worst moment. Ended up modding the clamp, a lot. Adding weight. Then it bent. Got a Syncros, thats still on the bike (15 years later) (That was a USE seatpin)

Light pedals, didn't work, didn't engage, disengaged randomly, were shit. (OnZa HO's BITD and Eggbeaters)

Skewers with nylon bushes and Ti shafts. Couldn't get them tight enough to hold the wheel in place without mangling the nylon bush. So they were useless, either loose or impossible to undo. Went back to the old shimano/campag ones i'd been using previously. Then got some lighter ones with steel shafts and brass bushes. Lighter than the stock ones, but they still work!

Light bonded aluminium frames. Could get the tyre to touch the chainstays when climbing out of the saddle. Then i crashed it and got a 653 frame instead.

Probably well under 60 kilos for all of them.

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by robertbb

Carbon fiber handlebars. Waste of money and time.

Alloy on all my bikes.

by Weenie

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